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Car Forum / Honda Cars / February 2008Coolant Vanishing: '95 Civic EX 1.6 - Attn Tegger and Techs
When I had the oil changed in November, I was told they had to add "quite a bit" of coolant to the reservoir. Since the car came from NM, with a spotty service record, I had hoped that it was simply not topped off ever. Now, three months later, with only moderate driving, I see the reservoir is virtually empty again. I don't see excessive white smoke in the exhaust, or smell antifreeze in it - although I haven't sniffed it specifically for that, yet. The oil looks fine. I don't smell coolant inside the car, either. It would be hard to spot a slow drip in this wet Winter weather. How common are internal head gasket leaks in this engine, as opposed to slow leaks in the reservoirs? > When I had the oil changed in November, I was told they had to add > "quite a bit" of coolant to the reservoir. Since the car came from NM, [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > Winter weather. How common are internal head gasket leaks in this > engine, as opposed to slow leaks in the reservoirs? Hi, First I'd replace the rad. cap and see. had the same problem on my 98 civic. Ended up that vibration over time had rubbed a small hole in the bottom of the plastic resevoir. It only dripped slowly, and right onto the ground so no telltales that there was a leak. Used some epoxy to seal the hole, its been good ever since. That being said, make sure you give the entire system a once over, and don't overlook anything. t >> When I had the oil changed in November, I was told they had to add >> "quite a bit" of coolant to the reservoir. Since the car came from NM, [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] >Hi, >First I'd replace the rad. cap and see. >> When I had the oil changed in November, I was told they had to add >> "quite a bit" of coolant to the reservoir. Since the car came from NM, [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > Hi, > First I'd replace the rad. cap and see. Good idea. I didn't realize that pressure leaks were such a common problem. I may have the system pressure-tested if replacing the cap doesn't work. Thanks. >>> When I had the oil changed in November, I was told they had to add >>> "quite a bit" of coolant to the reservoir. Since the car came from [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > problem. I may have the system pressure-tested if replacing the cap > doesn't work. Thanks. I took the car to a local shop today. They do free pressure tests (I gave them $20 anyway). No leaks, including the cap. Unless I'm missing something, it has to be the #@!@# head gasket, right? Assuming it's going straight to the exhaust and not burning much, how safe is it to leave it alone? Any suggestions? >>>> When I had the oil changed in November, I was told they had to >>>> add "quite a bit" of coolant to the reservoir. Since the car came [quoted text clipped - 20 lines] > going straight to the exhaust and not burning much, how safe is it to > leave it alone? Any suggestions? go for at least a 20 minute run, then look at the coolant reservoir while the engine's still running. [make sure you can see in, but don't lift the hose above the coolant surface!!!] any bubbles? if so, it's gasket. also, check under the car and look at the bottom of the timing belt cover. any coolant? if so, it's the pump. >>>> When I had the oil changed in November, I was told they had to >>>> add [quoted text clipped - 22 lines] > going straight to the exhaust and not burning much, how safe is it to > leave it alone? Any suggestions? The pressure test needs to be performed in two places. 1) the cooling system, and 2) the combusion chambers. the first is done in conjuction with the introduction of UV dye to the coolant, this being detected on the outside with a black light. The second consists of shop air being blown into each combustion chamber, then the rad filler neck being then inspected for bubbles. There is a third test that uses special paper test strips dipped into the rad filler neck. These change color in the presence of combustion gases in the coolant. Your problem is NOT the rad cap. If it were, the reservoir would be FULL. There is also the possibility of a worn water pump. In that case the coolant would drip down the block under the timing belt cover and may not be obvious. Findinig that leak means carefully inspecting the crank pulley area. Do not put this off. You WILL damage your engine, possibly badly. You're supposed to check your coolant level every time you open the hood, or at least once a week.  SignatureTegger The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ >>>>> When I had the oil changed in November, I was told they had to >>>>> add [quoted text clipped - 35 lines] > the rad filler neck. These change color in the presence of combustion > gases in the coolant. The procedure in the Honda manual online in the UK is to just use a hand pump-operated pressurizer with guage, and see if the pressure drops in the cooling system or cap. I don't know which they used at the shop... > Your problem is NOT the rad cap. If it were, the reservoir would be > FULL. Good point. > There is also the possibility of a worn water pump. In that case the > coolant would drip down the block under the timing belt cover and may [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > supposed to check your coolant level every time you open the hood, or at > least once a week. What I'm going to do, assuming I can even afford the cost of a new gasket done by the dealer, is to tell them to look for leaks, especially at the water pump. If they find none, I'll have them replace the head gasket. Shouldn't they install the new timing belt and water pump for no extra labor charge (they will be providing the parts, not me) when they do the gasket? I'm also having the front oil seals replaced as a preventive measure. Thanks for your response. If you could answer this post before this evening, when I drop it off, I'd appreciate it greatly. On 2/20/08 6:20 AM, in article gWUuj.16648$FK2.1405@trndny08, >>>>>> When I had the oil changed in November, I was told they had to >>>>>> add [quoted text clipped - 62 lines] > preventive measure. Thanks for your response. If you could answer this > post before this evening, when I drop it off, I'd appreciate it greatly. Seems like you're jumping the gun a little bit here. How low was it in the reservoir? When you say reservoir do you just mean the overflow tank, or the radiator? In normal use, the system will settle out to where the overflow tank sits at the "min" mark when the engine has cooled & the level will rise to around the "max" mark when the engine is hot & has been running for a while. I certainly would not spend money replacing a head gasket that has not even been diagnosed. There is not enough info here to even say for sure that there is a problem. > Seems like you're jumping the gun a little bit here. How low was it in the > reservoir? When you say reservoir do you just mean the overflow tank, or [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > the "min" mark when the engine has cooled & the level will rise to around > the "max" mark when the engine is hot & has been running for a while. ---------------------------- Where did you get this bit of misinformation? I've owned six Hondas and the level in the reservoir never changes more than about 1", hot or cold, summer or winter. If yours changes that much, there's something radically wrong from what the Honda engineers designed. 'Curly' On 2/20/08 11:03 AM, in article 13ron1td7br568a@corp.supernews.com, >> Seems like you're jumping the gun a little bit here. How low was it in the >> reservoir? When you say reservoir do you just mean the overflow tank, or [quoted text clipped - 14 lines] > > 'Curly' I get my bit of "misinformation" from the behavior of 27 different cars over a period 38 years. Where do you get yours? > On 2/20/08 11:03 AM, in article 13ron1td7br568a@corp.supernews.com, > [quoted text clipped - 18 lines] > I get my bit of "misinformation" from the behavior of 27 different cars over > a period 38 years. Where do you get yours? --------------------- Sorry, misinformation is a strong word. Volvos and Dodge products that I owned had pressurized reservoirs. The coolant level in them went up and down with temperature, but the HONDA isn't supposed to, since it's reservoir isn't under pressure at all. Boiling hot coolant isn't supposed to take up much more room than cold coolant, as long as the rad cap is keeping the pressure up. Since about '92 most Hondas will self-bleed any trapped air because the rad cap is the highest point in the system. When any trapped air is forced out, the air is supposed to bubble through the reservoir and when the system next cools, the level in the reservoir drops as coolant it drawn back in. That's when the owner is supposed to add coolant up to the MAX mark on bottle. The owner's manuals and the Helms service manual all tell the same story. However, none of this theory applies if there's a hole in a hose, the head, the heater core, the water pump seal, or if the rad cap is shot. 'Curly' >> On 2/20/08 11:03 AM, in article 13ron1td7br568a@corp.supernews.com, >> [quoted text clipped - 32 lines] > Boiling hot coolant isn't supposed to take up much more room than cold > coolant, as long as the rad cap is keeping the pressure up. sorry, that's fundamentally incorrect. coolant liquid most definitely expands as it heats - for both systems. pressure doesn't stop coolant expanding, it simply raises the boiling point. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coefficient_of_thermal_expansion > Since about '92 most Hondas will self-bleed any trapped air because the > rad cap is the highest point in the system. When any trapped air is [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > > 'Curly' >>> On 2/20/08 11:03 AM, in article 13ron1td7br568a@corp.supernews.com, >>> [quoted text clipped - 53 lines] >> >> 'Curly' I think we all agree that this motor should not be losing so much coolant so quickly. IMO,a coolant DYE test is in order. see if and where there's a coolant leak. SignatureJim Yanik jyanik at kua.net >>>> On 2/20/08 11:03 AM, in article 13ron1td7br568a@corp.supernews.com, >>>> [quoted text clipped - 55 lines] > IMO,a coolant DYE test is in order. see if and where there's a coolant > leak. but most antifreeze already has dye in it already. and dye does nothing to diagnose a head gasket. as said by someone else, the o.p. needs to take this vehicle to a shop that /wants/ to fix it - clearly the current one doesn't. time to hit the phones. >>>>On 2/20/08 11:03 AM, in article 13ron1td7br568a@corp.supernews.com, >>>> [quoted text clipped - 59 lines] > IMO,a coolant DYE test is in order. see if and where there's a coolant > leak. I told them to look for signs of a leak. If they find none, they will call me. How much should a dye test cost, and is it better or worse than a cylinder pressure test? The car already had a system pressure test, and passed. >>>>> On 2/20/08 11:03 AM, in article 13ron1td7br568a@corp.supernews.com, >>>>> [quoted text clipped - 63 lines] > than a cylinder pressure test? The car already had a system pressure > test, and passed. you don't usually do a separate dye test for antifreeze since it's already dyed. dye is more commonly used for differentiating different types of oil leak [engine oil and mtf are similarly colored and hard to tell apart sometimes] or for a/c systems. the best thing at this time is to take the vehicle to someone that has an interest in fixing the problem, not trying to tell you the vehicle is too old to be worth bothering with. there are plenty of independent honda specialists out there. find one and check to see if they have a good reputation. > I told them to look for signs of a leak. If they find none, they > will call me. How much should a dye test cost, and is it better or > worse than a cylinder pressure test? The car already had a system > pressure test, and passed. The two tests are meant to check for different problems. They are NOT equivalent. I'm assuming the "system test" means they checked the cooling system by pressurizing it. If that test did not use dye, then the test was incomplete. A dye test also will not pick up leaks that come from the water pump, since those leaks take lots of time fo be seen from under the timing belt cover. If there is suspicion on a head gasket leak, you must do the cylinder pressure check. SignatureTegger The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ >> Volvos and Dodge products that I owned had pressurized reservoirs. The >> coolant level in them went up and down with temperature, but the HONDA [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > > http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coefficient_of_thermal_expansion ----------------------------- I should have said "Coolant that is _boiling-hot_ isn't supposed to take up much more room than cold coolant, as long as the rad cap is keeping the pressure up". The word 'boiling' was used as an adjective, not a verb the first time. If you (disable the cooling fan so as to) boil it, you'll certainly fill the reservoir to the top, but in a healthy Honda cooling system, the level in the reservoir isn't supposed to go up and down 4 - 5 inches every time you drive it. 'Curly' >>> Volvos and Dodge products that I owned had pressurized reservoirs. >>> The coolant level in them went up and down with temperature, but the [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > up much more room than cold coolant, as long as the rad cap is keeping > the pressure up". but that's not true. as the liquid warms up, it expands substantially. that's why the "max" mark on the bottle is only half way down, not near the top. and that's why old fashioned thermometers work - as the volume of liquid in the bulb expands, it rises through the tube. http://www.forestry-suppliers.com/product_pages/View_Catalog_Page.asp?mi=8225# > The word 'boiling' was used as an adjective, not a verb the first time. > If you (disable the cooling fan so as to) boil it, you'll certainly fill [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > > 'Curly' >>>> Volvos and Dodge products that I owned had pressurized reservoirs. >>>> The coolant level in them went up and down with temperature, but the [quoted text clipped - 20 lines] > > http://www.forestry-suppliers.com/product_pages/View_Catalog_Page.asp?mi=8225# ---------------------------- Apples to oranges. The thermometer has a capillary tube that amplifies the amount the mercury or spirit is expanding, and it's expanding toward the air bubble at the top. That's exactly like the Volvo or Dodge system with the pressure cap on top of a reservoir half-full of air. The Honda coolant expands a bit and builds pressure, but it's the hoses that probably absorb most of the expansion, not the reservoir. If you were talking about gasoline expanding, that's very different. Water doesn't compress, and until it boils it doesn't expand much at all. That's why the water pipes in your house hammer when you shut off a tap suddenly. For that reason I've installed an air trap in the water line to my bathroom shower as a shock absorber. All is now quiet on the Western Front. :-) 'Curly' <...> > Apples to oranges. The thermometer has a capillary tube that amplifies > the amount the mercury or spirit is expanding, and it's expanding toward [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > to my bathroom shower as a shock absorber. All is now quiet on the > Western Front. Water will expand by about 4.3% from freezing to boiling: http://www.newton.dep.anl.gov/askasci/chem03/chem03335.htm So if a cooling system contains 8 liters of water (about 2 gallons), it will expand by about .3 liter, which is about 11 onces, or nearly the volume in one can of soda. The coolant will expand by a different amount, because it is not pure water. Jeff > :-) > > 'Curly' >>>>> Volvos and Dodge products that I owned had pressurized reservoirs. >>>>> The coolant level in them went up and down with temperature, but [quoted text clipped - 26 lines] > > Apples to oranges. apples to apples - it's exactly the same principle. > The thermometer has a capillary tube that amplifies > the amount the mercury or spirit is expanding, and how many liters of fluid are in the bulb? it's /exactly/ the same principle having a 3 liter coolant system and a 500cc expansion bottle. > and it's expanding toward > the air bubble at the top. it's not an air bubble. > That's exactly like the Volvo or Dodge system > with the pressure cap on top of a reservoir half-full of air. it really doesn't matter whether the expansion bottle is pressurized or not - the expansion is the same because the volume of the liquid is not affected by pressure. > The Honda coolant expands a bit and builds pressure, but it's the hoses > that probably absorb most of the expansion, not the reservoir. untrue - the fiber reinforcing of the hoses is there to specifically prevent that. it would be impossible to maintain the 13psi pressure to prevent boiling if the hoses could simply expand. > If you > were talking about gasoline expanding, that's very different. Water > doesn't compress, and until it boils it doesn't expand much at all. dude, did you read the wiki cite? thermal expansion coefficient of water is /huge/ compared to something like steel. > That's why the water pipes in your house hammer when you shut off a tap > suddenly. For that reason I've installed an air trap in the water line > to my bathroom shower as a shock absorber. All is now quiet on the > Western Front. indeed, but it's got nothing to do with thermal expansion. > The Honda coolant expands a bit and builds pressure, but it's the hoses > that probably absorb most of the expansion, not the reservoir. If you > were talking about gasoline expanding, that's very different. Water > doesn't compress, and until it boils it doesn't expand much at all. ?? the average honda owner, meaning me, can see a rise of maybe an inch or so in the reservoir after the engine is hot. >> The Honda coolant expands a bit and builds pressure, but it's the hoses >> that probably absorb most of the expansion, not the reservoir. If you [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > ?? the average honda owner, meaning me, can see a rise of maybe an > inch or so in the reservoir after the engine is hot. ======================= Yep. That's exactly what I said in the first place: > I've owned six Hondas and the level in the reservoir never changes more than about 1", hot or cold, summer or winter. 'Curly' >> The Honda coolant expands a bit and builds pressure, but it's the hoses >> that probably absorb most of the expansion, not the reservoir. If you [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > ?? the average honda owner, meaning me, can see a rise of maybe an > inch or so in the reservoir after the engine is hot. try driving up grapevine [california i5], in summer, at 95. i guarantee you'll see more than that. unless there's something wrong, it won't overheat, but fluid level will be right at the top of the bottle. >>>> Volvos and Dodge products that I owned had pressurized reservoirs. >>>> The coolant level in them went up and down with temperature, but the [quoted text clipped - 28 lines] >> >> 'Curly' I think the key here is; "Liquids cannot be compressed." If a given liquid (at normal ambient temperatures) is heated, it will expand but remain in a liquid state hence, it has to go somewhere to accommodate the resultant expansion. In modern cars, this is the coolant reservoir while in the older tin of the past, it was simply the space at the top of the radiator. JT >>> Volvos and Dodge products that I owned had pressurized reservoirs. >>> The coolant level in them went up and down with temperature, but the [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > up much more room than cold coolant, as long as the rad cap is keeping > the pressure up". but that's not true. as the liquid warms up, it expands substantially. that's why the "max" mark on the bottle is only half way down, not near the top. and that's why old fashioned thermometers work - as the volume of liquid in the bulb expands, it rises through the tube. http://www.coolstuffcheap.com/verther.html > The word 'boiling' was used as an adjective, not a verb the first time. > If you (disable the cooling fan so as to) boil it, you'll certainly fill [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > > 'Curly' > Volvos and Dodge products that I owned had pressurized reservoirs. The > coolant level in them went up and down with temperature, but the HONDA > isn't supposed to, since it's reservoir isn't under pressure at all. > Boiling hot coolant isn't supposed to take up much more room than cold > coolant, [...] But it does. ALL materials expand with heat. The reservoir level naturally rises and falls as the coolant heats and cools. This is the purpose of the various seals in the rad cap, and for the very presence of the (unpressurized) reservoir in the first place. You don't have to take my word for it. Check your own reservoir's level at dead-cold. Drive the car to full-hot, then have another look at the level. It will be at least a half-inch higher. Coolant is constantly traveling in and out of the reservoir with every heat-cool cycle. It's a normal and necessary feature of a modern sealed cooling system's operation. SignatureTegger The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ > > Volvos and Dodge products that I owned had pressurized reservoirs. The > > coolant level in them went up and down with temperature, but the HONDA [quoted text clipped - 20 lines] > > The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQwww.tegger.com/hondafaq/ my idle question is, how much negative pressure is required to suck the coolant in. obviously, the spring keeps the in valve shut at zero pressure, but when the coolant cools off, there's negative pressure in the block which sucks the coolant from the reservoir. we assume the pressure of the spring on the valve leading from the block to the reservoir is what it's labeled as, but i just wonder how much residual vacuum remains in the block when the spring shuts the input valve. for no reason other than idle curiosity. >>> Volvos and Dodge products that I owned had pressurized reservoirs. The >>> coolant level in them went up and down with temperature, but the HONDA [quoted text clipped - 28 lines] > vacuum remains in the block when the spring shuts the input valve. for > no reason other than idle curiosity. almost zero. there are two springs - one for high pressure exit, the other is practically zero return. unscrew the radiator cap when cold and see how much vacuum there is when you release. > my idle question is, how much negative pressure is required to suck > the coolant in. obviously, the spring keeps the in valve shut at zero [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > vacuum remains in the block when the spring shuts the input valve. for > no reason other than idle curiosity. There are no springs on the inlet valve. If you study the bottom of the rad cap, you'll discover either: 1) a round, thin rubber flap smaller than a dime, or 2) a wiggly post with a plastic disc on the end of it. These are the inlet valves. It takes /next to/ zero negative pressure for the rubber flap type to allow coolant back into the rad, and /definitely/ zero for the wiggly post type, which is always open until pressure shuts it. This assumes, of course, that both types are CLEAN. Goop and crud will plug up the inlet and prevent free flow of coolant back to the rad. This futher assumes you're using the correct OEM ND caps. If you've got aftermarket crap, all bets are off as to how they work. SignatureTegger The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ > In normal use, the system will settle out to where the > overflow tank sits at > the "min" mark when the engine has cooled & the level will > rise to around > the "max" mark when the engine is hot & has been running > for a while. On my 91 Civic, after years of observation, I'd say it's at more like the mid mark on the reservoir when cool, then right at max when warm. I am just following the manual: If reservoir level is at low or a bit above, then warm up the engine, and add coolant to the max mark. > On 2/20/08 6:20 AM, in article gWUuj.16648$FK2.1405@trndny08, > [quoted text clipped - 76 lines] > been diagnosed. There is not enough info here to even say for sure that > there is a problem. I know. On the one hand it may be nothing. On the other it could be engine-threatening. The dealer told us in essesnce, that we can't afford a new gasket - didn't even quote a price. And we wonder why cars aren't maintained like they used to be... The reservoir was empty, or virtually so, both times. >> On 2/20/08 6:20 AM, in article gWUuj.16648$FK2.1405@trndny08, >> [quoted text clipped - 88 lines] > > The reservoir was empty, or virtually so, both times. then you either have a leak [which should be obvious somewhere - you need to inspect properly] or you have a blown gasket. pressure tests don't necessarily work for diagnosing gaskets unless the vehicle is at full operating temperature. and even then... observing bubbles in the coolant is the only sure-fire way of knowing. bottom line, it's pointless spending money on the belt until you have a correct diagnosis. also, for repair economics, given the money that some repair shops charge for head gasket work, it may be more economic to replace the whole engine. you can buy a jdm import for a few hundred bucks and replacement time is way lower than the time necessary to strip, clean, prep and reassemble a motor for a gasket. and there's the problem of repair shops using abrasives in preparation witch will in due course, cause the car to burn oil. and there's the problem of many places insisting on skimming your head, even if it doesn't need it. > I know. On the one hand it may be nothing. On the other it could > be > engine-threatening. The dealer told us in essesnce, that we can't > afford a new gasket - didn't even quote a price. then you need to go to a different service supplier.(but still use OEM Honda parts) It seems obvious this dealer just doesn't want to work on your car. > And we wonder why > cars aren't maintained like they used to be... > > The reservoir was empty, or virtually so, both times. It's a FACT you're losing coolant fast;you need to find out WHERE. A dye test seems in order. THEN worry about head gaskets,IF necessary. SignatureJim Yanik jyanik at kua.net On 2/20/08 2:30 PM, in article j50vj.11208$wG2.3708@trndny09, >> On 2/20/08 6:20 AM, in article gWUuj.16648$FK2.1405@trndny08, >> [quoted text clipped - 83 lines] > > The reservoir was empty, or virtually so, both times. What did the dealer say he thought the problem was? If the reservoir is empty, but the radiator is full (I'm still not clear if that's what you are saying), have you checked that the reservoir itself, or the hose to it is not damaged and is actually letting the coolant leak out? > On 2/20/08 2:30 PM, in article j50vj.11208$wG2.3708@trndny09, > [quoted text clipped - 91 lines] > that's what you are saying), have you checked that the reservoir itself, or > the hose to it is not damaged and is actually letting the coolant leak out? It turned out to be a leaking water pump. I believe the Grand Prize goes to Tegger (or maybe Ray) for guessing that. I'm relieved. The pump also had one frozen bolt, so I'm wondering if the pump really *was* replaced 5.5 years ago and 50k miles ago, like th printout from the West coast dealer said. It shouldn't have been in such bad shape - the replacement interval is 6 years and soemthing like 80k miles... > What I'm going to do, assuming I can even afford the cost of a > new > gasket done by the dealer, is to tell them to look for leaks, > especially at the water pump. If they find none, I'll have them > replace the head gasket. Only if they can confirm a leak into the cooling system from the combustion chambers. And this is not difficult. A head gasket is not something you just go and replace on a whim. > Shouldn't they install the new timing belt > and water pump for no extra labor charge (they will be providing the > parts, not me) when they do the gasket? No. They need to remove the crank pulley and lots of other parts when replacing the timing belt. > I'm also having the front oil > seals replaced as a preventive measure. That's a good idea, but does add to the labor cosrt. > Thanks for your response. If > you could answer this post before this evening, when I drop it off, > I'd appreciate it greatly. I'm not working from home for the time being (BIG adjustment after working from home for 5 years) and putting in lots of hours at the office. My replies will therefore not be as timely as they used to be. SignatureTegger The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ >> What I'm going to do, assuming I can even afford the cost of a >> new [quoted text clipped - 26 lines] > working from home for 5 years) and putting in lots of hours at the > office. My replies will therefore not be as timely as they used to be. I appreciate the replies. I'll have them do the pressure test if there is no sign of a leak. If it's the kind of leak a dye test would show, it should be visible by now anyway, I hope. On Feb 18, 4:20 pm, "mjc13<REMOVETHIS>" > When I had the oil changed in November, I was told they had to add > "quite a bit" of coolant to the reservoir. Since the car came from NM, [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > Winter weather. How common are internal head gasket leaks in this > engine, as opposed to slow leaks in the reservoirs? low odds but this happened to me i used some type of radiator additive that was supposed to kep things cooler instead it made my honda go through radiator fluid and make me think that i had a blown head gasket. I would try to flush the system first and start fresh. Next feel the upper rediator hose with your hand after warm up. Do you feel fluid and is the hose good. Low odds but upper radiator hoses can collapse internally and are soo tough to diagnose. Possible that the thermostat is sticking if no fluid passing you have a problem. Next burp the system get excess air out by adding water and squeeze the upper hose till bubles come out of the radiator top fill hole repeat over and over till no more bubbles. if still no progress either radiator shot, head gasket, water pump start low cost and confirm all low cost items are good > On Feb 18, 4:20 pm, "mjc13<REMOVETHIS>" > [quoted text clipped - 25 lines] > > start low cost and confirm all low cost items are good Here's the problem: I have an appointment *tomorrow* to drop the car off to have the timing belt and water pump replaced, to take advantage of a 2 week service sale. They will be replacing the coolant, but I have to decide if I'm having them do the head gasket then, obviously. BTW, the engine has always run perectly cool, even in very hot weather, so I'm inclined to think the flow is ok... |
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