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Car Forum / Honda Cars / September 20061988 Honda Accord Lxi rev'ing Up and Down
Got a question maybe someone can answer... My 88 Honda Accord Lxi with 200K plus milage started rev'ing up and down after warming up. I thought maybe the vacuum adv. on the distributor might be bad, but verifing timing (pulling hoses and blocking/ chk timing) all are alright (car does not rev up and dwn when I do this). But once I put the hoses back same thing. If I pull the hose closest to the front end of the car, the engine stops rev'ing up and dwn. Another thing I did is replacing the all hoses to vacuum adv, I disconnected the power plug to the vacuum control module (left portion of firewall) and the car stops rev'ing up and down. SUGGESTIONS???? Best I can think of: turn the heat to max and bleed coolant. Remove the battery for a minute to reset ECU. > My 88 Honda Accord Lxi with 200K plus milage started rev'ing up and down > after warming up. I thought maybe the vacuum adv. on the distributor [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > power plug to the vacuum control module (left portion of firewall) and the > car stops rev'ing up and down. SUGGESTIONS???? ECU re-set is done by removing the ECU fuse for ten seconds. The fuse is in the under hood fuse box. See if there is something in the intake screen for the vacuum source in the big box full of controls on the passenger side of the outer firewall. (all the vac lines run to it) Good Luck! bob > Best I can think of: turn the heat to max and bleed coolant. Remove the > battery for a minute to reset ECU. [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > > power plug to the vacuum control module (left portion of firewall) and the > > car stops rev'ing up and down. SUGGESTIONS???? Indian Summer wrote: > Best I can think of: turn the heat to max and bleed coolant. Remove the > battery for a minute to reset ECU. [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > > portion of firewall) and the car stops rev'ing up and down. > > SUGGESTIONS???? I agree with the above suggestion to bleed the coolant. The most common problem associated with the idle cycling up and down is usually due to a lack of coolant flowing through the cold start valve. The valve is item number 8 in this diagram http://tinyurl.com/xj18. If the valve doesn't warm up as the engine warms up (from coolant flowing through the bottom part), the PGMFI system will misinterpret the condition and idle cycling results. The first thing to due is to check the valve and make sure that the lower part of the valve gets hot as the engine warms up. If the valve doesn't get hot, try bleeding the coolant and make sure that coolant is flowing through the valve. You can double check the valve as a source of the cycling by removing the two screws from the top along with the oval shaped plate and push down on the inner valve/plunger in the center. The cycling should stop if the valve is the problem. If the valve is getting hot and pushing the inner plunger down stops the cycling, then the valve likely needs to be replaced. Eric Indian Summer, To clarify, I think you mean to bleed the AIR that's trapped in the cooling system (at the provided nipple) rather than DRAIN the coolant. Some folks wouldn't know that there is a difference. 'Curly' ------------------------------ > Best I can think of: turn the heat to max and bleed coolant. Remove the > battery for a minute to reset ECU. [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] >>power plug to the vacuum control module (left portion of firewall) and the >>car stops rev'ing up and down. SUGGESTIONS???? > Indian Summer, > [quoted text clipped - 19 lines] >>>module (left portion of firewall) and the car stops rev'ing up and >>>down. SUGGESTIONS???? Appreciate All the help!! Will try and see what happens. Had this problem on a 1992 Honda Accord. The idle air screw on the throttle body had loosened causing the engine to rev up. The computer would then try to bring the idle down, the net result was a flucuation in idle between 1,000 and 1,500 rpm. So you might want to check the screw (was on left side of throttle body opening on the '92), I think the normal idle speed should be around 750rpm. I just turned the screw clockwise until I reached that rpm and the revving stopped. Good luck. > Got a question maybe someone can answer... > [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > power plug to the vacuum control module (left portion of firewall) and the > car stops rev'ing up and down. SUGGESTIONS???? > Had this problem on a 1992 Honda Accord. The idle air screw on the > throttle body had loosened causing the engine to rev up. The computer [quoted text clipped - 18 lines] >> module (left portion of firewall) and the car stops rev'ing up and >> down. SUGGESTIONS???? Figured it out!!!! The EACV was gummed up (to use that term), cleaned with carburator/choke cleaner and put back on. Car ran Great!!!! Thanks for all the tips and tricks Can you interpret 'EACV' for me? I own an LX-i, and would like tocheck this on my car. Thanks, bob >> Figured it out!!!! The EACV was gummed up (to use that term), cleaned > with carburator/choke cleaner and put back on. Car ran Great!!!! > Thanks for all the tips and tricks > Can you interpret 'EACV' for me? I own an LX-i, and would like > tocheck [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] >> with carburator/choke cleaner and put back on. Car ran Great!!!! >> Thanks for all the tips and tricks EACV--> Electronic Air Control Valve. It is located on the front side of the PGM-FI. It has a power connector top right and a inlet out let hoses on the bottom side of it. It is held on by two bolts. The right one is easy to take off, the left will hit the vacuum rail. Thanks! bob > > Can you interpret 'EACV' for me? I own an LX-i, and would like > > tocheck [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > hoses on the bottom side of it. It is held on by two bolts. The right > one is easy to take off, the left will hit the vacuum rail. They added this in 1988, so if you have an 86 or 87, you won't have this. > Can you interpret 'EACV' for me? I own an LX-i, and would like tocheck > this on my car. Thanks, bob > > >> Figured it out!!!! The EACV was gummed up (to use that term), cleaned > > with carburator/choke cleaner and put back on. Car ran Great!!!! > > Thanks for all the tips and tricks Thanks. I'm working on an '89 that's driving me crazy. The engine always starts, but it sounds just like a weak battery or worn starter. I've replaced the starter, distributor and ECU. Car cranks normally if the coil is disconnected or if the fuse for the injectors is removed. I've checked all the coils and wiring and grounds. I hope the air valve will make it all better. I'm willing to try anything!. bob > They added this in 1988, so if you have an 86 or 87, you won't have this. Bob , This is the first report I've seen anywhere of the exact symptom's as the blankity blank 1988 lxi I working on with good cranking when coil wire of, but bad sounding hard cranking starter with wire on as to start the engine!!!! !!!!!!! The answer train got me confused over the answer and if this worked for you. Can you tell me if it worked and what the solution was. Ever hopefull and gratefull -Ted > Thanks. I'm working on an '89 that's driving me crazy. The engine >always starts, but it sounds just like a weak battery or worn starter. [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > >> They added this in 1988, so if you have an 86 or 87, you won't have this. |
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