I forgot to mention that you need to be certain that the valve is pulled out
of the bore along its vertical axis otherwise you may wind up bending the
valve.  Once the valves are removed, they can be disassembled by hand.  In
addition to the copper seal rings, also replace the o-ring of course.  Also,
make sure the valve bore in the head is clean of all carbon before
installing the valve bodies back into the head (and don't forget to torque
the locknuts).  The cam tower/rocker arm assembly should be installed with
the valve adjuster screws backed out 'till they're flush with the rocker arm
to minimize the risk of catching one on a valve and bending it.  Lastly, put
a light coat of ultra gray silicone sealant on the head mating surfaces of
the two end cam towers, the distributor carrier o-ring, and on the cam seal
which may need to be replaced.  Check the factory service manual for torque
specs, http://www.helminc.com.  By the way, you should check to see if the
oil pump drive gear has been updated.  This is a critical issue as these
older Hondas had problems of eating up the gear teeth on the cam/drive gear
resulting in metal contamination and loss of engine lubrication.  This
failure seemed to occur after the cam/cam towers/drive gear was disturbed.
If you can remove the cam towers without removing the cap for the drive gear
then you may be ok.  However, it's best to update the drive gear if needed
to be on the safe side.  The old drive gear has a broad upper bearing
surface while the updated drive gear has a more narrow upper bearing surface
(about a 1/2 to 1/3 of the old style if I remember correctly) and a clip
ring at the top.

Eric