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Car Forum / Honda Cars / November 200495 civic wont start!
the other day i woke up and my car had a stumble really bad. drove around then let it chill and now it wont crank up at all. first i replaced the fuel filter and the plugs. im gettin gas. then i replaced the distrib. cap and rotor. still no start. then i went deeper and tested the coil-tested fine- then tested and replaced the igniter(ignition control module). still no start. i checked with my electric tester and im gettin power to my coil from the black/yellow wire but it seems like the power wont go to the cap or rotor. im as confused as a baby in a tity bar. any help here would be greatly appreciated also in my haynes manual it said with the wires disconected from the coil i should be gettin power to the blue/white wire where it attaches to the igniter- i didnt get power there on my old or new igniter > the other day i woke up and my car had a stumble really bad. drove > around then let it chill and now it wont crank up at all. first i [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > the blue/white wire where it attaches to the igniter- i didnt get > power there on my old or new igniter +++++++++++++++++++++++ Did you check to see if the rotor turns when the engine is cranked? (timing belt failure) Fuel filter manifests at HIGH speed. > the other day i woke up and my car had a stumble really bad. > drove around then let it chill and now it wont crank up at [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > attaches to the igniter- i didnt get power there on my old or > new igniter also....just checked to see if i get a spark from the coil to a grounded wire and no spark, yet electric tester still reveals power?????? > > The other day I woke up and my car had a stumble really bad. > > drove around then let it chill and now it wont crank up at [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > > attaches to the igniter- I didn't get power there on my old or > > new igniter > also....just checked to see if i get a spark from the coil to a > grounded wire and no spark, yet electric tester still reveals > power?????? Supply power to the coil ? of second. There should be spark. Hi. I had a similar problem very recently with my wife's integra, which is probably very similar to your civic. My coils measured ok statically, but in circuit it wasn't generating high voltage. The transformer's insulation had broken down and it was arcing to the metal distributor case. I'd take the unit out (two screws) and inspect it carefully - mine was discolored, almost burned in spots (it looked like it had gotten hot, anyway) and had microcracks in the case. Hope this is of use. Remco > > the other day i woke up and my car had a stumble really bad. > > drove around then let it chill and now it wont crank up at [quoted text clipped - 15 lines] > grounded wire and no spark, yet electric tester still reveals > power?????? motsco- yeh the rotor turns no problem with the belt remcow-when you saw transformer do you mean the ignitor module or the coil? thanks much for all the help I replaced both the ignitor and the coil (which electrically is really a transformer, so that's what I called it).. The Coil is the unit that looks like it has a chimney with a spring on the top. The igniter is a module with four wires. I am not sure what your problem is, but I take it you're looking to see if your igniter is bad? Someone on this honda group told me about a trick where you connect a light bulb between the output of the igniter(not the 12V common wire - the other one) and 12V. When you crank the car, the light will flicker -- I haven't tried it, but it seems like a very plausible test. Hope this helps - Remco > motsco- yeh the rotor turns no problem with the belt > > remcow-when you saw transformer do you mean the ignitor module or the > coil? > thanks much for all the help Hi The coil (electrically it really is a transformer) is that module with a chimney looking thing sticking out. The top of the chimney has a spring on it. When you check for spark, I take it you have something attached to this spring that is close to ground? The ignitor is another module below it with four wires on it. Since you aren't getting a spark pulling the coil's primary to ground, your ignitor may not be the primary problem -- it could still be bad, but I would check the coil first. Someone clever in this honda group (a tech for Honda) mentioned that one can unhook the transformer, put a light between the output of the ignitor and 12V -- when starting the car, you should see the bulb flash if the ignitor is good. I haven't tried it but it seems like a very legitimate ignitor test. When testing the coil, if you don't get a spark when you briefly short the cold primary and do have power, the thing isn't behaving as a transformer. Btw, don't keep it shorted as that will only create one spark and may burn out your coil. Just short, let go. My coil had cracks in the case and it actually arced through its case to the case of the distributor. Take the thing out and inspect it closely. Also, a new coil and/or ignitor can be bought a lot cheaper on the net -- be sure to search for it before you allow the dealer to hose you. Hope this is of use to you. Remco > motsco- yeh the rotor turns no problem with the belt > > remcow-when you saw transformer do you mean the ignitor module or the > coil? > thanks much for all the help > motsco- yeh the rotor turns no problem with the belt > remcow-when you saw transformer do you mean the ignitor module or the > coil? thanks much for all the help Put a bulb on the coil +, - then crank. Flash = bad coil. No flash = igniter not switching. Put a DVOM on the coil +, - then crank. Toggles between 12VDC and zero = bad coil. No toggle = igniter not switching. Rick There you go -- you should be able to tell where it is coming from using Rick's test. One more thing, in case you have to replace the ignitor: the original one was just attached to a plate with screws. It did not have heat sink compound between these two surfaces. This stuff will help the thing get rid of its heat better and will probably help it in getting old. It is commonly used in the electronic industry and I was quite surprised none was present. Heatsink compound can be bought at Radio Shack -- it comes in a tube and has a toothpaste like consistency. Put a blob on the middle of the ignitor and tighten the screws - it spreads out nicely and just wipe off the excess. Hope it all worked out for you and get it running soon. Remco > > motsco- yeh the rotor turns no problem with the belt > > remcow-when you saw transformer do you mean the ignitor module or the [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > > Rick > the other day i woke up and my car had a stumble really bad. drove > around then let it chill and now it wont crank up at all. first i [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > the blue/white wire where it attaches to the igniter- i didnt get > power there on my old or new igniter I agree with the other posters and they may have already solved your problem. If you still have the problem after trying these things, I suggest that you jump start it (from another battery) and see if it starts up. If it does start up, it probably means that you need a new battery. If it won't start when you attempt to jump start it, it could mean you need a new starter or starter solenoid. There is also the possibility that a defective alternator is the source of the problem. Some of the auto parts stores test various parts for free. Sears may also test parts for free but most of their so called tech people don't know how to perform the tests properly. You could get lucky--if possibly--watch them.  SignatureNEWSGROUP SUBSCRIBERS MOTTO We respect those subscribers that ask for advice or provide advice. We do NOT respect the subscribers that enjoy criticizing people. |
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