car shakes at a complete stop

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GDB - 02 Sep 2005 07:40 GMT

can any help me on 88 honda accord? my car shakes bad on a complete stop
only. car starts up fine and runs good. but as soonest i come to a
complete stop it's seems like it want's to fall apart.

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TeGGeR® - 02 Sep 2005 12:52 GMT

> can any help me on 88 honda accord? my car shakes bad on a complete stop
> only. car starts up fine and runs good. but as soonest i come to a
> complete stop it's seems like it want's to fall apart.

1) Idle too low
2) Engine mounts very worn.

Do you have a carb or fuel injection? you probably need a good clean of the
carb or the throttle body and EACV.

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TeGGeR®

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

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catchafly@earthlink.net - 17 Sep 2005 23:32 GMT

The engine mounts are a distinct possibility. I had an 88 Accord myself.
Nearly all the vibrations stopped when the engine mounts were replaced.

>> can any help me on 88 honda accord? my car shakes bad on a complete stop
>> only. car starts up fine and runs good. but as soonest i come to a
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
> the
> carb or the throttle body and EACV.

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Michael Pardee - 18 Sep 2005 00:34 GMT

> The engine mounts are a distinct possibility. I had an 88 Accord myself.
> Nearly all the vibrations stopped when the engine mounts were replaced.

My daughter's '93 Accord (200K+ miles) has been doing that too, and the rear
mount (the hydraulic one) is to blame. The valve works okay except the
vacuum doesn't have enough oomph to rotate the control rod. It works if I
reach under there and give it a bit of help from my fingertip. If oil
doesn't fix it (how am I going to get to that?) I guess it is time for a new
$200 mount.

Note that this applies only to auto tranny models.

Mike

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Michael Pardee - 02 Sep 2005 13:46 GMT

Automatic transmission, I presume? If so, the rear engine mount may be the
same as on my daughter's '93 and is a vacuum controlled hydraulic mount. You
can tell by looking for the control solenoid, mounted on the center of the
firewall about 6 inches below the hood. A single connector comes from the
passenger side (left hand drive) and two hoses attach to the bottom from the
driver's side. The solenoid applies vacuum when the engine is warm and
idling (and when in gear, at least) to soften the mount.

I just went through the diagnostics on her car, and in this case the control
rod for the valve on the mount itself is gummed up. It will move (and the
idle smooths out) if I help it with my finger but it lacks the mojo to move
itself. My partner used to work at a Porsche/Audi dealership and changed out
a lot of the same sort of mount on Audis, so I know they also have a
significant failure rate... I'm lucky so far. Best price I found on the 'net
for the mount is $145 US. If clean and lube won't fix it, replacement is in
my future.

I'm trying to get pictures as I go, and the solenoid was easy. The mount is
scarcely visible at all; I have tried to get it from underneath but haven't
found a clear shot at it yet. I sure don't want to remove the mount to get
oil on the shaft, either.

Mike

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Curious - 02 Sep 2005 19:17 GMT

Check your car's RPM at idle. Mine runs around 1000 RPM's at idle and does
fine. It recently dropped to 500 RPM and shook badly. A little adjustment
to the idle screw remedied the problem. What is the RPM reading at idle?

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GDB - 02 Nov 2005 16:46 GMT

thank you all for your tips, it was my rear engine mount that cause the
problem
thank you once again.

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Michael Pardee - 03 Nov 2005 01:13 GMT

> thank you all for your tips, it was my rear engine mount that cause the
> problem
> thank you once again.

Thanks for the feedback!

Mike

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