Thanks for your added advice. I will try this first as the fuel
filter(s) are a lot cheaper than the igniter and ignition switch. In my
earlier post, I mentioned that I added fuel injection cleaner (when the
fuel gage was half full). For the next 3 days, the engine did not
cutout. When I filled the tank with new fuel and did not add fuel
injection cleaner, the problem was back. If the fuel filter(s) are not
the issue, then I will next change the igniter and ignition switch.
> One other thing to look at if all of the rest below fails is the fuel
> filter: it and the fuel pump are inside the tank (I dunno if the fuel
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Matt Ion - 02 Nov 2005 18:00 GMT
Hmm, true, checking the filter for problems is certainly easier than
testing the igniter and what not :) Might want to give your tank a fair
dose of methyl hydrate as well, in case the hole let excessive moisture
into the tank.
> Thanks for your added advice. I will try this first as the fuel
> filter(s) are a lot cheaper than the igniter and ignition switch. In my
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>>http://www.avast.com
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Burt S. - 03 Nov 2005 17:20 GMT
> it. I don't know if it makes a difference, but the fuel fill port has
> been repaired because there was a hole due to rust. It does not appear
> that the cap seals the port opening as it should. Does this make any
> difference, i.e., pressure-related?
If the relieve valve on the cap is blocked then you might loose fuel
pressure and stall. If that's the case you might see a warped gas tank.
> Thanks for your added advice. I will try this first as the fuel
> filter(s) are a lot cheaper than the igniter and ignition switch. In my
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> injection cleaner, the problem was back. If the fuel filter(s) are not
> the issue, then I will next change the igniter and ignition switch.
If it's the ignition switch then your dash light will go dark when it stalls.
I doub't it's the igniter. My NEC igniter is over 280k miles.