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Car Forum / Honda Cars / January 2006

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Replacing radiator in 97 Accord (any tips)

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techman41973@yahoo.com - 11 Jan 2006 22:17 GMT
I have a leak in my radiator on my 97 Accord with 165K.
I have done other repairs on my car and I am considering attempting
this on my own.
Especially when my dealer want $500 installed.
I have looked at my Honda service manual and it seems straight forward.
Basically:
Drain coolant.
Remove all hoses connected to radiator.
Remove all fan harnesses.
Remove radiator mounts.
Remove radiator with fans attached.
Remove fans from radiator and install on new radiator.
Install in reverse order.

* Can anyone recommend an aftermarket radiator that installed easily
into a 94-97 Accord?
* To anyone who has done this type of repair and run into any type of
complications, any additional tips would be helpfull.
* One thing I would like to do is find a way to keep the transmission
fluid from leaking out of the hose once I remove it from the radiator.
I also plan to protect the fins with a piece of cardboard when
installing the new radiator.
Michael Pardee - 11 Jan 2006 22:53 GMT
>I have a leak in my radiator on my 97 Accord with 165K.
> I have done other repairs on my car and I am considering attempting
[quoted text clipped - 18 lines]
> I also plan to protect the fins with a piece of cardboard when
> installing the new radiator.

My son did most of the work on my daughter's '93 Accord LX recently, and he
ended up with a two day job of it. Access to the bottom was the big
problem - scout it out before setting your schedule. This one had a plastic
splash shield - no big deal - but there is also a cross-member on this one
that runs across right about where you need to get at the hoses. He removed
the cross-member, which also required separating the ball joints.... I think
it can be done without removing the cross-member as long as you have the
patience.

If you can deal with the lower access, the next challenge is getting the
fans out. Easy, actually, except for the connectors. The trick with those
was to get a medium size blade screwdriver that could simultaneously depress
the tab and lever the connector apart a bit. I imagine a squirt with
silicone lubricant into the gap where the two halves mate before trying to
get them apart would help.

Once you get everything out of the way the radiator part is an anticlimax. I
recommend new radiator hoses - a small price to pay for what probably needs
replacing anyway. New clamps, of course, unless you really like those OEM
thingies. Reassembly is easier than disassembly - you know the tricks and
nothing fights much.

Mike
Michael Pardee - 11 Jan 2006 22:56 GMT
>I have a leak in my radiator on my 97 Accord with 165K.
> I have done other repairs on my car and I am considering attempting
[quoted text clipped - 18 lines]
> I also plan to protect the fins with a piece of cardboard when
> installing the new radiator.

I forgot to mention - in the '93 the radiator didn't have clearance to come
out with fans attached... you may be in luck!

To control the AT fluid leak you can put bolts in the hoses.

Mike
HLS@nospam.nix - 12 Jan 2006 00:49 GMT
"Michael Pardee" <michaeltnull@cybertrails.com> wrote in message
news:hNOdnbi4iq-
> To control the AT fluid leak you can put bolts in the hoses.
>
> Mike

In most cases you will lose very little tranny fluid.
You can check it and top it up after the job just to be on the safe side.

Now, you know that Hondas require tranny service according to
schedule.  Some models apparently have no filters, and if you want
the tranny to survive, you must service it.
Jason - 12 Jan 2006 01:26 GMT
> I have a leak in my radiator on my 97 Accord with 165K.
> I have done other repairs on my car and I am considering attempting
[quoted text clipped - 18 lines]
> I also plan to protect the fins with a piece of cardboard when
> installing the new radiator.

Once you finish the job, run the engine on idle for about 20 minutes with
a gallon of water in your hand. Leave the cap off of the radiator. If the
level goes down, pour water into it. Keep doing this until the level
remains at the
top for 10 minutes. This is the technique that I learned from a mechanic
to purge the air out of the system.
Also, check the water level in the radiator every morning for at least a
week before you start your car. If it remains at the top for three days in
row--that means all of air has been purged from the system. Perhaps other
people might offer other tips related to this issue. I hope that I did not
leave out any steps. Make sure you have 50% water and 50% radiator fluid.

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SoCalMike - 12 Jan 2006 05:07 GMT
> I have a leak in my radiator on my 97 Accord with 165K.
> I have done other repairs on my car and I am considering attempting
> this on my own.

id have no hesitations. especially if it was a 5psd with no AC.

> Especially when my dealer want $500 installed.

you can get the part for half that.

> I have looked at my Honda service manual and it seems straight forward.
> Basically:
[quoted text clipped - 12 lines]
> * One thing I would like to do is find a way to keep the transmission
> fluid from leaking out of the hose once I remove it from the radiator.

cork? piece of bread?

> I also plan to protect the fins with a piece of cardboard when
> installing the new radiator.
tylernt@gmail.com - 12 Jan 2006 07:01 GMT
>> * One thing I would like to do is find a way to keep the transmission
>> fluid from leaking out of the hose once I remove it from the radiator.

> cork? piece of bread?

I've used the fingers cut off from a latex glove for capping off hoses
and things. Roll the base of the finger up to form a bead. Only works
if the hose is a certain diameter, though.
N.E.Ohio Bob - 12 Jan 2006 13:57 GMT
    Remove the lower hose from the ENGINE end. It's lots easier than trying
to get to the rad end. Just move it to the new radiator in the same
orientation, and clamp it tight.
    Check the trans cooler line (steel) in front of the rad for rust. They
will leak out there after some time.     bob
Michael Pardee - 13 Jan 2006 00:05 GMT
> Remove the lower hose from the ENGINE end. It's lots easier than trying to
> get to the rad end. Just move it to the new radiator in the same
> orientation, and clamp it tight.
> Check the trans cooler line (steel) in front of the rad for rust. They
> will leak out there after some time.     bob

With the new hoses in hand and a visual sanity check done, my son just cut
the lower hose in two with a knife. The Gordian Knot method ;-) But thinking
about it, that may have made the cross-member thing unimportant if the lower
fan bolts were accessible.

Mike
mgan9311@hotmail.com - 12 Jan 2006 14:16 GMT
You know.....my 95 civic had a hole in one of the main lines of the
radiator...it was spewing out fluid like CRAZY!  Couldn't drive for
more than 2 miles without overheating.  Plugged hole with TOOTHPICKS!
Once they break off, cover area with electrical tape....saved me 50
bucks for a replacement radiator.
Bugalugs - 14 Jan 2006 00:27 GMT
> You know.....my 95 civic had a hole in one of the main lines of the
> radiator...it was spewing out fluid like CRAZY!  Couldn't drive for
> more than 2 miles without overheating.  Plugged hole with TOOTHPICKS!
> Once they break off, cover area with electrical tape....saved me 50
> bucks for a replacement radiator.

You can also do an emergency repair with household pepper.

Had a relative visiting just after the start of a long touring holiday.
Developed a hole among the fins (don't ask) and put a handful of pepper
in the radiator. Put the lid on and ran the motor.

Not too sure of the chemistry on this but I am told it's something about
the pepper circulating in the hot water, when it hits the cold air as it
exits the leak turns to a solid lump and seals the leak.

Anyway he went on the rest of his holiday and 6 months later he still
hadn't done anything to fix it. (it was not a modern car)
butch burton - 12 Jan 2006 17:08 GMT
Just looked at radiator barn site and they have 2 options, 1 has a
plastic tank with aluminum core and the other brass tank with copper
core - the aluminum plastic is slightly more money - which is better.

A couple of things - had a local garage change my 97 accord's radiator
last summer.  They used Bumper to Bumper - first 2 radiators had holes
- #3 was lucky - no holes Hecho in Mexico.  Watched the tech - some of
the hoses were a real PITA to get off.  Also he did not reconnect the
AC and it did not work - figured that out.  ALso the garage manager
stole one of my maps - clean out your vehicle - took everything else
out - how did know the AH manager was going on a trip to Chi that day -
that is the map he took - crooks abound.
TE Cheah - 13 Jan 2006 12:30 GMT
| change my 97 accord's radiator
What happened to your original radiator ?  My '90 ( Toyo 60300, Japan
made ) radiator is still fine : no rust / crack ( incl cap's rubber seals ),
though by 75000 km  [i] its Mitsuba fan motor's bearing already had no
oil left  [ii] 1 bolt @ bottom of fan motor's casing had rusted & jammed.
Michael Pardee - 14 Jan 2006 14:59 GMT
>| change my 97 accord's radiator
> What happened to your original radiator ?  My '90 ( Toyo 60300, Japan
> made ) radiator is still fine : no rust / crack ( incl cap's rubber
> seals ),
> though by 75000 km  [i] its Mitsuba fan motor's bearing already had no
> oil left  [ii] 1 bolt @ bottom of fan motor's casing had rusted & jammed.

I'll hazard a guess... the Great Psychic sees a crack running from left to
right (or is it right to left... the vision is hazy) across the middle of
the flat spot on the top of the radiator where a support crosses on the
passenger side.

Anyway, that's what it was on my daughter's '93. Apparently that flat area
flexes as the radiator pressure builds and deflates, until it finally
cracks. Maybe the '97 doesn't have that spot.

Mike
butch burton - 14 Jan 2006 16:18 GMT
My 97 sprung a leak/crack from right to left or vice versa across the
top where the top connects to the fins.

When buying radiators - beware of Hecho In Mexico - took 3 tries to get
one that did not leak.
Howard - 13 Jan 2006 03:50 GMT
* Can anyone recommend an aftermarket radiator that installed easily
into a 94-97 Accord?

Buy a brand called Koyo. Very high quality at a reasonable price.
Practically indistinguishable from the factory, and a perfect drop in fit.
Only difference might be filler neck size requiring a different cap.
Howard

>I have a leak in my radiator on my 97 Accord with 165K.
> I have done other repairs on my car and I am considering attempting
[quoted text clipped - 18 lines]
> I also plan to protect the fins with a piece of cardboard when
> installing the new radiator.
 
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