Wow, interesting one. This group gets a lot of no start/hard
start/rough running problems. Yours seems kind of unique.
Still, I think it would be best to start with where the car
is at in its maintenance schedule.

The car has sat a couple of months... hm. I would start by
thoroughly cleaning the battery terminals.

Are  you in a really cold climate? How many miles are on the
car?

Fuel injector leakage sounds like a possibility, but you say
you've put cleaners in the system. Maybe try, one last time,
a bottle of Chevron Techron, a cleaner a lot of people here
like. Follow the directions on the bottle exactly. (I
started using it but have no idea whether it makes a
difference on my 170k+ 1991 Civic.)

How old are the ignition wires, plugs, distributor cap and
rotor, air filter and fuel filter? Are all these parts
genuine Honda (that is, no Autozone yada) parts? Take this
seriously! A proper tuneup sometimes solves a lot of
start/running problems. For reinforcement on this point, see
the running/starting FAQ at www.tegger.com/hondafaq .

Make sure the cooling system is topped off, per the manual.
I don't think that's the main problem, but I wouldn't want
it to interfere with your troubleshooting. There are coolant
temperature sensors sending signals to the car's computer.
If they're not fully submerged, whacko operation may result
until the car is fully warmed up.

Starter solenoid contacts IIRC may also be part of the
problem, but I heard this only here and defer to others who
may wish to comment.

After this, some consideration should be given to a new
igniter, though if it's really the problem, then I would
expect it to die completely very soon. I really don't think
it's the problem at this point. Just saying it can fail
intermittently.

www.autozone.com has a free online repair manual for the 95
Accord that explains how to make sure the coolant level is
correct, for one thing.

snip

Whoops, here's something else to check right away: What code
is being set.

www.autozone.com 's manual also tells you how to retrieve
the code for the check engine light, once it's on and
staying on.

I'd do this a.s.a.p., to help narrow the problem.

------------------------------------

If it only manifests when the car has sat for several hours, it could be
the dripping injector problem. If it's 'guaranteed' to give trouble on
Monday morning after sitting all night, try what the Owner's Manual says
to do for a FLOODED engine. Hold the pedal half way to the floor and
crank it. If it starts with a blast of smoke and sputtering, you've
probably found the culprit. As was mentioned, Techron, or a few tanks of
Gasohol may fix it. Be aware that your oil is getting a lot of fuel in
it. Change your PCV also, since the car is new-to-you.

'Curly'

More to rule a potential problem out then to directly attack through
troubleshooting, a bottle of gasoline dryer will absorb any water that was
collecting in the tank. I doubt it is the source of the problem, but since
the car sat a while it may be in order anyway.

In theory, there are only three possible problem areas - fuel, ignition and
compression. The symptoms don't sound like compression at all and very
little like ignition, so fuel (including mixture) are the focus of most of
the suggestions - and good ones they are. I am still concerned about the
injectors after sitting for a couple months. You may need to have them
tested and professionally cleaned or replaced. It could be a leaker in
combination with some with impaired flow.

Mike

Several possibilities:
1) Blown head gasket. How's the coolant level? Coolant trickles into the
cyliner overnight, and makes cold starts very difficult.
2) Weak spark from old ignition wires. Spark will be weak until car warms
up. Is the weather wet where you are?
3) Other problem related to the error the ECM is turning on the MIL for.
You need to get the code for that.

Get the code off the ECM. It will probably still be stored.

Procedure: Access service check connector (located under dashboard on
passenger side) (H7). Short service check connector's holes with paper clip
and turn ignition on and observe Check Engine light for codes.

There may be both long and short blinks, and more than one code may be
stored. The sequence will repeat with a long pause between sequences.

I have a 96 accord.

I had to replace the wires, cap and button, and reseal the distrub. with
silicone AND dry out the coil and re-seal. If there was even a light mist,
the poor old thing wouldn't start without a can of WD-40. Anyway, after I
got everything dried out, replaced and sealed. I can basically drive it
through a small pond and it runs fine...

Anyway, something to check...

BD