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Car Forum / Honda Cars / February 200699 CR-V Rear Window Latch Sticks --- silicone spray doesn't work
When the rear window opens and closes (above and independently from the door swing gate), it activates a switch that is built into the top left of the rear door. Something on the bottom left of the window depresses this switch when the glass is closed, and when the glass is raised up (hinges at the top) the switch is supposed to return. It is not, and if I tap it very quickly and hard, it'll sometimes come back. It feels very much like a plastic-on-plastic friction going on in there, but am not sure if some part of the spring broke----although it does return, and I /think/ it's returning with the same vigor as before (once unstuck). I've sprayed everything I could see in there, and I'm actually surprised not that it didn't work, but that there was *zero* effect. Any ideas? How hard is this part of the door to disassemble? Thanks!  Signature"Realtor" and "realty" are pronounced "reel'-tor" and "reel'-tee", *not* "reel'-a-tor" and "reel'-i-tee" !!!! If you pronounce them with the extra syllable, you will sound like a complete idiot. I looked at my 01 thinking that there the same but I didn't see a switch, I would go to the Honda body shop and ask them, sorry I can't help. Tom > When the rear window opens and closes (above and independently from the > door swing gate), it activates a switch that is built into the top left of [quoted text clipped - 14 lines] > > Thanks! > When the rear window opens and closes (above and independently from the door > swing gate), it activates a switch that is built into the top left of the [quoted text clipped - 19 lines] > If you pronounce them with the extra syllable, you will > sound like a complete idiot. ----------------------- Good point about the Realtors. Some of them will have a NEW-CLEAR (as opposed to nuke-you'll-er) meltdown if they read it, but you're right. Makes them sound like idiots. Go sign in at hondasuv.com and 'search' for 'tailgate' and 'latch'. I think you mean to say that the release handle is also dragging, or not releasing after you squeeze it with your fist also, right? It happens most in climates where salt is used on the roads. I've had a few apart. Don't use white lithium or you'll be waiting for a warm day to go in there AGAIN, like I am. :-) You'll figure out how to contact me if you need more help. 'Curly' 'Curly Q. Links' said something like: >> When the rear window opens and closes (above and independently from the >> door [quoted text clipped - 40 lines] > there AGAIN, like I am. :-) You'll figure out how to contact me if you > need more help. Well, actually, the handle works if the plastic switch is all the way up. It doesn't work at all if the lever is depressed (it "thinks" the window is still closed.) I'm not describing this properly. On the tailgate at the top left corner there is what looks like a (maybe) 2" x 2" plastic housing (IIRC---I can't get outside right now). Within that there is a maybe 1"x1" plastic lever that (when the rear window is open) is up and flush with the rest of the 2x2 housing. When the window closes, there is a piece of metal attached to the bottom corner of the window that depresses the 1x1 plastic lever inwards. 1. When the lever (switch) is pressed in by the window, the tailgate is locked and cannot open. 2. When the window is opened, the lever (switch) is supposed to snap up towards you, enabling the tailgate to open up. This is not happening, and the tailgate stays locked and un-openable. 3. If I tap hard on the plastic lever, I can dislodge it from whatever and it snaps toward me again, allowing the tailgate to be opened. Thanks, PS: Thanks for the heads up about the Wh. Lithium grease. The most important things to post online are your own mistakes!!!!!!!!! They are invaluable to others! Signature"So I just, uh... I just cut them up like regular chickens?" "Sure, just cut them up like regular chickens." If you can't get any success peeking in the 4" x 4" access hatch you'll have to pop the whole cover off. Peel the door gasket up a bit , remove screws behind the plastic hook, and inside the storage hatch. The whole cover pops off just like a normal door panel toward you, not up. Have a pry bar handy to help. Warm weather is helpful. 'Curly' 'Curly Q. Links' said something like: > If you can't get any success peeking in the 4" x 4" access hatch you'll > have to pop the whole cover off. Peel the door gasket up a bit , remove [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > > 'Curly' Excellent! Thanks---I'll give'r a look! SignatureForgetthesong,I'dratherhavethefrontallobotomy... 'Curly Q. Links' said something like: >> When the rear window opens and closes (above and independently from the >> door [quoted text clipped - 42 lines] > > 'Curly' As it turns out, you are right---the release handle *is* not returning with a snap either, "is dragging", or otherwise feels mushy. I looked inside the 4x4 hatch. I have a genetic predisposition to being UNABLE TO REMOVE HONDA PANELS, door or dashboard, so I failed miserably there. Either the clips don't release (as with the door), or they snap out entirely and fall within the chassis (as with the dashboard), or, or, or... Too frustrating for me to face right now {author downs a prozac...} So I put the door panel screws back in and did the best I could with the 4x4 access hatch. I'll do the best I can to explain it here. The window lever thing on the left side of the tail gate is attached to a piece of metal that slides along a curved piece of metal within the door. This is rubbing with enough friction to actually stick. Heavy black lithium grease carefully applied just there will get me through the very near term. The curved piece of metal that it is sliding along looks like it is attached to the handle and to the tail gate latch on the edge of the door. Here's the thing: If I reach in with my finger and push the curved piece of metal UP the extra 1/16" (or less!) then the curved metal is hardly contacted at all and everything is smooth. I have to wonder if there is a return spring or something similar broken, so that the entire handle-curvedmetal-sidelatch assembly doesn't snap back *all* the way. Not sure----you said you've seen this a lot? I live in Massachusetts: there is a /lot/ of salt dumped here... Signaturehttp://www.allexperts.com is a nifty way to get an answer to just about /anything/. > As it turns out, you are right---the release handle *is* not returning with > a snap either, "is dragging", or otherwise feels mushy. [quoted text clipped - 29 lines] > http://www.allexperts.com is a nifty way to get an answer to just about > /anything/. ---------------------------- Sorry I forgot to mention hondasuv.com. Sign in, then search the CR-V section for 'latch' or 'tailgate'. You might have to look in the archives. It happens on Generation 1's. ('97 - '01). Just don't put any oil or dino-based GREASE on it. I won't work all winter if you do. 'Curly' |
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