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Car Forum / Honda Cars / February 2006CRV Valve Tick After Adjustment and a few other questions.
I bought a 1999 CRV a while ago and recenty had the valves adjusted. >From what I can find from the dealer, the valves had not been done before (it had 60k on the odo when I purchased). As per the info I got from this forum, I had them adjusted to the loose side of spec. Now when the vehicle is idling I hear a tick-tick from the driver side valve area. It's not a constant ticking that repeats in a distinctive pattern but sort of a random tick-tick that comes and goes. Any thoughts? Something to worry about? Cause? cure? Just let it be? I already had the rear-diff squeal and changed the fluid myself and it's a silent as can be now, thank you to the forum for that info. Also looking to replace the timing belt, water-pump and idler pulleys(sp?) at 90k, too soon? Not soon enough? Tires, it has winter treads (they can take studs) and the tire noise is pretty loud. Are passenger car tires ok as a replacement? Was looking at Khumo Touring 795 A/S and Hankook Mileage Plus II H725's. Had the Kumho's before on a mini-van and presently have them on a Ford Countour. Does the CRV need an SUV/Truck tire? And lastly, this thing has so many clunks and bangs from the suspension, it's very irritating. The dealer says they found nothing abnormal and according to the work order "found no abnormal noises, sounds like similar vehicles. What???? Honda engineered and built a vehicle that sounds like this on purpose? They said the bushing are good. Any suggestions on that? TIA. Does the ticking go away as the car warms up? >I bought a 1999 CRV a while ago and recenty had the valves adjusted. >>From what I can find from the dealer, the valves had not been done [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > looking to replace the timing belt, water-pump and idler pulleys(sp?) > at 90k, too soon? Not soon enough? Do you have an owner's manual? It gives the miles/years for the timing belt. > Does the ticking go away as the car warms up? > [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > > Do you have an owner's manual? It gives the miles/years for the timing belt. Is that the same owners manual that tells me to have the valves adjusted at 105k or only if they get noisy? Change rear differential fluid at 90k? I'm sure most would agree that both those intervals are wrong, and the valve interval being followed according to the manual could result in a very expensive repair bill, that's why I was asking about the timing belt/water pump. > Elle wrote: >> Does the ticking go away as the car warms up? [quoted text clipped - 18 lines] > Is that the same owners manual that tells me to have the valves > adjusted at 105k or only if they get noisy? I guess that's a no. But I don't really know. One wiseass tends to dampen volunteer enthusiasm. > > Elle wrote: > >> Does the ticking go away as the car warms up? [quoted text clipped - 18 lines] > > Is that the same owners manual that tells me to have the valves > > adjusted at 105k or only if they get noisy? > I guess that's a no. > But I don't really know. I'm not sure where you want to go with this. Yes, I have an owners manual and it has information in it that is considered wrong among Honda enthusiasts. Hence there is good reason to seek the advice of others regardless of what the owners manual tells me. > One wiseass tends to dampen volunteer enthusiasm. I could say the same thing about your "owners manual" reply. I wasn't being a wise-a.s, I was stressing that the manual is not always correct. There are cases where simply directing someone to their owners manual can be costly, I'm trying to avoid that. > There are cases where simply directing someone to their owners > manual can be costly, I'm trying to avoid that. From our perspective there is a wide range of timing belt recommended change intervals among the various Honda/Acura models and years out there. The owner's manual is going to be a lot better than any guess all but the most deeply knowledgable of us could provide. It is way beyond me. Mike > > There are cases where simply directing someone to their owners > > manual can be costly, I'm trying to avoid that. [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > > Mike Yes, I appreciate that. As I explained in another post, there is a lack of records of things being done to this vehicle by the previous owner, I should have asked that if maintenance was lax, should some things be done sooner than the owners manual states. > Yes, I have an owners manual and it has information in it that is > considered wrong among Honda enthusiasts. Hence there is good reason to [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > > I could say the same thing about your "owners manual" reply. No wise-assness was intended. Many Honda owners do not know that the owner's manual has a maintenance schedule in it. IMO the valve lash adjustment frequency has declined over the years because of better technology. My 91 Civic's owner manual recommends a certain frequency, and it has worked fine. I can't comment on your differential fluid objection. Timing belt frequencies in the owner's manual are also considered to be accurate, based on my reading and my own work with my Honda. IIRC the 99 CRV manual says 7 years or 105k miles for normal driving conditions. Since you're about at the 7-year mark, and assuming I am remembering correctly, then yes, do the timing belt within the next 12 months. It is said by shops and amateurs alike to do the water pump at the same time, because of the overlap in labor, and the expected life of the water pump is the same. As for the idler pulley, I'd go with the manual. If the manual says nothing on it, keep checking back. Certain timing belt-related parts can be done every other timing belt change. On the other hand, if you haven't any idea how the vehicle was driven previously, and I'm wrong about the 7 years, doing the timing belt now is a good idea. Severe driving conditions of course reduce the time and mileage interval for the timing belt. These conditions are listed in the owner's manual... > > Yes, I have an owners manual and it has information in it that is > > considered wrong among Honda enthusiasts. Hence there is good reason to [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > No wise-assness was intended. Many Honda owners do not know that the owner's > manual has a maintenance schedule in it. No problem. > IMO the valve lash adjustment frequency has declined over the years because > of better technology. My 91 Civic's owner manual recommends a certain > frequency, and it has worked fine. > > I can't comment on your differential fluid objection. I'm not sure I follow you on this. My rear diff was noisy the first time the 4wd kicked in and I was alarmed until I searched here and found the cure, changing the fluid. I had visions of costly repairs until I read what was causing it. > Timing belt frequencies in the owner's manual are also considered to be > accurate, based on my reading and my own work with my Honda. [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > the manual says nothing on it, keep checking back. Certain timing > belt-related parts can be done every other timing belt change. Good advice, thank you. > On the other hand, if you haven't any idea how the vehicle was driven > previously, and I'm wrong about the 7 years, doing the timing belt now is a > good idea. Severe driving conditions of course reduce the time and mileage > interval for the timing belt. These conditions are listed in the owner's > manual... That is what prompted my concern, few records from the previous owner have me thinking I should have it done sooner to be on the safe side. Thanks. > I'm not sure I follow you on this. My rear diff was noisy the first > time the 4wd kicked in and I was alarmed until I searched here and > found the cure, changing the fluid. I had visions of costly repairs > until I read what was causing it. I just meant that I am not read up on the subject. I am in no position to dispute your finding. But if Curly was the one who steered you this way, that does not surprise me. He is one of many fine contributors here with important experience to share. Hopefully more will chime in with comments on the tires and suspension, etc. I am a mere, puny 91 Civic owner. :-) > I bought a 1999 CRV a while ago and recenty had the valves adjusted. >>From what I can find from the dealer, the valves had not been done [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > pattern but sort of a random tick-tick that comes and goes. Any > thoughts? Something to worry about? Cause? cure? Just let it be? One valve is slightly too loose. As long as you can stand the noise, just let it be. A loose valve is a happy valve. However, if the noise changes, get it looked at just to make sure somebody didn't forget to tighten a locknut or something. > I already had the rear-diff squeal and changed the fluid myself and > it's a silent as can be now, thank you to the forum for that info. Mostly Curly, I'd suspect. He's been the primary promulgator of diff fluid problem solutions. > Also > looking to replace the timing belt, water-pump and idler pulleys(sp?) > at 90k, too soon? Not soon enough? I thought it was over 105K by 1999? Still got an owner's manual?  SignatureTeGGeR® The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ > > I bought a 1999 CRV a while ago and recenty had the valves adjusted. > >>From what I can find from the dealer, the valves had not been done [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > One valve is slightly too loose. As long as you can stand the noise, just > let it be. A loose valve is a happy valve. If it's happy, I'm happy. > However, if the noise changes, get it looked at just to make sure somebody > didn't forget to tighten a locknut or something. Will do. Thank you. > > I already had the rear-diff squeal and changed the fluid myself and > > it's a silent as can be now, thank you to the forum for that info. > > Mostly Curly, I'd suspect. He's been the primary promulgator of diff fluid > problem solutions. I believe that is correct. I was freaking when I first heard it, all's quiet now. > > Also > > looking to replace the timing belt, water-pump and idler pulleys(sp?) > > at 90k, too soon? Not soon enough? > > I thought it was over 105K by 1999? Still got an owner's manual? Yes, it says 105k. I was wondering if I should have it done sooner as I haven't found many records for this vehicle, thinking maybe some things should be done sooner if the previous owner was lax in doing proper maintenance The dealer shows 3 records, only one being an oil change. I didn't do my homework before buying and the lack of records has me a little worried. I realize he/she may have done things themselves, but I don't know at this point. Yes, dumb on my part. > -- > TeGGeR® > > The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ > www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ >> I thought it was over 105K by 1999? Still got an owner's manual? > > Yes, it says 105k. I was wondering if I should have it done sooner as > I haven't found many records for this vehicle, thinking maybe some > things should be done sooner if the previous owner was lax in doing > proper maintenance It's 105K or seven years as I recall. Hondas have what are known as "interference" engines. When the belt snaps, you risk seriously expensive damage. http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/faq.html#interference Doesn't mean it WILL get damaged, just that the risk is exponentially higher. Having said that, the ones that break are taken *considerably* over their limits. It appears Honda builds in quite a safety factor into their schedule. But do you really want to take the chance? > The dealer shows 3 records, only one being an oil change. I didn't do > my homework before buying and the lack of records has me a little > worried. I realize he/she may have done things themselves, but I don't > know at this point. > > Yes, dumb on my part. Paranoia is a very useful thing when buying a used car. Very few owners pay any sort of attention to maintenance and repair. SignatureTeGGeR® The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ > I bought a 1999 CRV a while ago and recenty had the valves adjusted. <SNIP> European manuals say 50,000Km for the valves (30,000 Miles). The Dual pump Fluid only lasts 50,000 Km / two years. An oil change might make that valve quiet down, but Tegger's right, it's a 'happy valve' as long as the mechanic didn't fail tighten the locknut :-) Add all the extra DOTS to your owner's manual maintenance schedule, and you'll impress the person you sell it to in ten years. The TBelt has 6 years on it. I think it's time anyway. Personally, I wouldn't change the water pump unless I knew the former owner was using non-honda coolant or TAP WATER (Hondacide). The idler pulley will probably last until the fourth or fifth TBelt, unless you're someplace really hot. 'Curly' > > I bought a 1999 CRV a while ago and recenty had the valves adjusted. > <SNIP> [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > a 'happy valve' as long as the mechanic didn't fail tighten the locknut > :-) Would it have to be a constant, rhythmic tick for it to be a valve? It's like random, tick-tick-pause-pause-pause-tick-pause-pause-tick-tick-tick... I just changed the oil about 3 weeks ago. I assume I'd have to open the valve cover to see if it's the locknut? It's been run about 2500 miles since I first noticed the ticking, if it was the locknut, would it have done something more by now, like fall off or cause some other problem? I've never done something like pull the valve cover on a vehicle so I'm a little apprehensive at that prospect. > Add all the extra DOTS to your owner's manual maintenance schedule, and > you'll impress the person you sell it to in ten years. I'm gonna run it forever. :) > The TBelt has 6 years on it. I think it's time anyway. Personally, I > wouldn't change the water pump unless I knew the former owner was using > non-honda coolant or TAP WATER (Hondacide). The idler pulley will > probably last until the fourth or fifth TBelt, unless you're someplace > really hot. That's my main problem, no info on what the past owner did or didn't do or what they used. I'll get that TBelt replaced then. Thanks for the great info, all of you. > Would it have to be a constant, rhythmic tick for it to be a valve? > > It's like random, > tick-tick-pause-pause-pause-tick-pause-pause-tick-tick-tick... --- Sounds more like your PCV clicking. Use a couple feet of garden hose or heater hose to listen for it. Pinch the hose and see if it changes the noise. ---------------------- if it was the locknut, would it have > done something more by now, like fall off or cause some other problem? ---- You'd have a misfire indication, or backfiring, or 25% power loss by now (we were pulling your leg a bit) ------------------------ > That's my main problem, no info on what the past owner did or didn't do > or what they used. I'll get that TBelt replaced then. Thanks for the > great info, all of you. --- Find the dealer where they had it serviced and just walk in. Tell them you're the new owner (have registration in your pocket) and ask if they'd please give you PRINTS of all the service. It always works for me. Have them photocopy your registration and fax it to Honda CORPORATE (whatever country you are in). Then you'll get future notification of recalls, etc. While there, get the other info like actual date in service, which location sold it, whether the ignition switch recall was performed, and other outstanding recalls. Have you got the real owner's manual, and the radio CODE (if needed)? 'Curly' > > Would it have to be a constant, rhythmic tick for it to be a valve? > > [quoted text clipped - 27 lines] > performed, and other outstanding recalls. Have you got the real owner's > manual, and the radio CODE (if needed)? Thanks for all the advice. Contacted the dealer today. I have the original manual. Vehicle has an aftermarket CD player/radio that uses a code that I picked myself. > I bought a 1999 CRV <SNIP> > And lastly, this thing has so many clunks and bangs from the [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > > TIA. Do a google (or eBay) search for rear stabilizer links. You can get two for the price of one on eBay. The get very noisy when going over bumps. Clack clack. For the road test your dealer sent a mechanic who wears no hearing protection while using air tools. Find a bumpy dirt road and get your helper to (carefully) hang out the tailgate or door to see where it's coming from. You're supposed to be able to get them off with a 14?mm wrench and a 5mm allen wrench, but you should have a nut-splitter at the ready to cut the frustration level down. :-) 'Curly' > > I bought a 1999 CRV <SNIP> > > And lastly, this thing has so many clunks and bangs from the [quoted text clipped - 16 lines] > > 'Curly' Thanks for that bit of info. I'll get my wife to drive it tomorrow while I hang out back and listen. Find a bumpy dirt road and get > > your helper to (carefully) hang out the tailgate or door to see where > > it's coming from. You're supposed to be able to get them off with a [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > Thanks for that bit of info. I'll get my wife to drive it tomorrow > while I hang out back and listen. -------------------------------- A camcorder (a light one) does a great job when you can't get your own ear in close. 'Curly' |
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