> While driving my 92 Accord on the highway the Engine Oil Light came on. I had to
> drive another 5 kms before to stop the car on a shoulder. <SNIP>
> > While driving my 92 Accord on the highway the Engine Oil Light came on. I had to
> > drive another 5 kms before to stop the car on a shoulder. <SNIP>
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
>
> 'Curly'
My timing belt along with the water pump (all Honda parts) was changed
around160K kms and I
have 192K kms on the car now. I have always changed the oil, oil filter at
6-10K intervals,
all other maintenance items were done as required. TeGGeR suggested that the
bearings and oil pump could have been damaged too. Timing belt seems more
plausible to me since the engine runs and accelerates well when it is on Park.
I have the problem when I am driving. Could it be that oil pump seized
temporarily
and caused timing belt jump? What bothers me also the burning smell
when it happened. Anyone of the electrical connections from sensors
(speed, torque, shaft position etc.) could have been burnt too I guess, and
ECU can not control the engine properly (my wish!!). I need a really good
mechanic to
diagnose this problem rather than trial an error. By changing the oil pressure
switch (15K kms old) , oil, and oil filter (3K kms old) turned the light off
somehow but I am not convinced that the problem got solved.
jim beam - 25 Feb 2006 23:10 GMT
>>>While driving my 92 Accord on the highway the Engine Oil Light came on. I
>
[quoted text clipped - 28 lines]
> switch (15K kms old) , oil, and oil filter (3K kms old) turned the light off
> somehow but I am not convinced that the problem got solved.
if the oil pressure light comes on when driving, and you have oil
showing on the stick, you likely have a blown bearing [which you'd hear]
or a blown pump. both are bad news. at this is stage, you have two
choices:
1. keep driving and see how long it lasts. if the engine seized
momentarily and is now free again [it happens], it will run rough for a
while and effectively have to "run in" again. and it'll burn oil, so
keep an eye on it.
2. buy a new engine. unless you're an enthusiast or this car is
otherwise exceptional in some way, a strip-down necessary for accurate
diagnosis & subsequent rebuild is not economic. a jdm engine is just a
few hundred bucks, plus labor for the swap.
for the future, any oil light coming on is a big problem. deal with it
properly. don't just replace the pressure switch - they rarely fail
unless they're struck or they develop a leak.
lastly, if you get the new engine, use a decent quality oil and do not
exceed the oil change interval. cheap oil is cheap for a reason, and it
ain't just because the label's cheaper to print.
Michael Pardee - 26 Feb 2006 04:24 GMT
> for the future, any oil light coming on is a big problem. deal with it
> properly. don't just replace the pressure switch - they rarely fail
> unless they're struck or they develop a leak.
I agree that the engine must not be run more than enough to get the car out
of traffic and for diagnostics when the oil light comes on, but on
reflection replacing the sensor is not an unreasonable approach for a DIYer.
They do fail fairly often (as you say, that usually announces itself with a
leak). If the light goes off afterward the new sensor is clearly different
from the old one and the old one can be declared bad. If the light is on
with the new one also, we can be sure it is telling us the truth and it's
time to make the hard choices about the engine.
A pro would be negligent not to actually measure the oil pressure, however.
Different standards when charging somebody for the work.
Mike
Dario Moreno - 22 Mar 2006 21:07 GMT
> > > While driving my 92 Accord on the highway the Engine Oil Light came on. I
> had to
[quoted text clipped - 26 lines]
> switch (15K kms old) , oil, and oil filter (3K kms old) turned the light off
> somehow but I am not convinced that the problem got solved.
Finally I took the car back to the mechanic and it was the balance shaft that
had seized.
The timing belt, balance belt, and the water pump were changed 15K kms ago.
Anyhow the balance belt was stripped badly. The pieces from the belt made the
timing belt to skip a tooth. My mechanic said that he called a few
other Honda mechanics and the dealer and none heard of seized balanced shaft.
It was going to be an expensive curiosity to find out why it was seized thus we
opted
to disengage the shaft by removing the gear and putting a new belt. It cost me
$415 CDN.
We still do not know the relation between this failure and oil light to come on.