 |
 | Home | Contact Us | FAQ | Search & Site Map | Link to Us |
 | Sign In | Join | Other 45 Sites in Network |
Car Forum / Honda Cars / May 2006Honda Civic Timing Belt
Hi everyone, My Honda Civic 1984 (Auto) timing belt is just broken. Mechanic said that it can replace it with for about $280.0, but he said there is a chance that the valves and pistons are damaged as well as a result and repairing those could cost up to $1600. If valves and pistons are damaged, I don't want to go a head with repair and prefer the car to be recycled instead. Does anyone had this problem before or know how much chances are that valve and pistons are damaged as well? So I need to know how much risk involved? Thanks in advance. Kylie > Hi everyone, > [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > > Kylie --------------------------- Get him to check the valve clearances by turning the cam(s) over by hand while the pistons are at half-mast. Bent valves will have HUGE clearances compared to the others. Simple and cheap. 'Curly' > Get him to check the valve clearances by turning the cam(s) over by hand > while the pistons are at half-mast. Bent valves will have HUGE > clearances compared to the others. Simple and cheap. As you get him to grab the cam wheel to turn it over by hand he'd be surprise to find the cam stuck. Most often the belt snapped because the camshaft is poorly lube. Usually, you don't need to get the piston at half-mast. As you turn the cam wheel several revolutions by hand to visually check the valve clearance the valves pushes the piston out of the way. And the odds of it at TDC is close to 1 in 100. If it happens to be at TDC I'll give you our family horse - with saddle. :-) > My Honda Civic 1984 (Auto) timing belt is just broken. > Mechanic said that it can replace it with for about $280.0, but he said [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > are that valve and pistons are damaged as well? > So I need to know how much risk involved? The risk of severe damage is higher at higher rpm or at higher speeds and decelerating in gear. The risk is lower if you're accelerating from a stop but not above 25-30-mph on autos. In a manual transmission the risk of damage is higher. > "Kylie" <nojunkmail@please.com> wrote > The risk of severe damage is higher at higher rpm or at higher speeds > and decelerating in gear. The risk is lower if you're accelerating from a > stop but not above 25-30-mph on autos. In a manual transmission > the risk of damage is higher. I was clicking off 120km/hr and broke my tb in my Integra. Absolutely no damage and it was standard. My friend was driving his dodge colt a few years ago down a local st. going around 20k, belt broke, and he tried starting it 2-3 times......the motor was toast. The key is do not try to start you car if it breaks down you you think its the timing belt. Pop the cover off and have a look > Hi everyone, > [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > Does anyone had this problem before or know how much chances are that > valve and pistons are damaged as well? First off, the damage typically sustained by the pistons is usually minimal. When the pistons hit the valves, there's usually just some small dents in the top and they can be reused without any problems. The most damage is to the valves. These get bent and will not seal flat against the valve seat. Since the valves are not seated, as Curly noted, the clearances on any bent valves will be excessive. You don't even need to use a feeler gauge to find them. It takes just 15-20 minutes or so to pull the valve cover and check all the valves. If you're going to junk the car rather than pull the head and replace the bent valves, then this might be the best option. Keep in mind that older cars are a lot like onions. Once you start peeling back the layers to fix one problem, you find a lot more problems. There's usually no getting around it unless the car has had excellent maintenance (but it wouldn't likely be in its current status if that were the case). It sounds like you've evaluated the condition of the car and judged it not worthwhile to repair the valve train damage. Since this is the case, just get the clearances checked and then decide. Eric <big snip> > Keep in mind that older cars are a lot like onions. Once you start > peeling back the layers to fix one problem, you find a lot more problems. ... > Eric Great words of wisdom, Eric. I'll have to remember that (and where it came from, although I'll keep thinking it was from Shrek.) Mike > <big snip> > > Keep in mind that older cars are a lot like onions. Once you start > > peeling back the layers to fix one problem, you find a lot more > > problems. > > Great words of wisdom, Eric. I'll have to remember that (and where it came > from, although I'll keep thinking it was from Shrek.) I've never watched Shrek. The statement is almost verbatim of what we told customers when they brought their older cars into the shop. It helped lessen the impact of dealing with reality. With the OP's '84 Civic that's likely been neglected it might be like opening the bottomless can of worms. With pulling the head, it would be reasonable to replace the valve stem seals, overhaul the CVCC valves, repair assorted vacuum hose and coolant hoses problems, probably overhaul the distributor, and then even if you were careful, there's probably enough crud in the carburetor float bowls that's accumulated over the years that it would get sloshed around and wind up plugging up the carburetor. Eric "Eric" <say.no@spam.now> wrote in message > First off, the damage typically sustained by the pistons is usually > minimal. When the pistons hit the valves, there's usually just some small > dents in the top and they can be reused without any problems. The most > damage is to the valves. These get bent and will not seal flat against the > valve seat. Since the valves are not seated, as Curly noted, the clearances > on any bent valves will be excessive. Fast, sporty drivers can damage there connecting rods or other areas of the engine block if they reach very high speeds. Especially going downhill where the pistons will continuously beat on the twisted valves. Although, the sound will be very loud and obvious, this is pretty rare. > You don't even need to use a feeler > gauge to find them. It takes just 15-20 minutes or so to pull the valve [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > the case, just get the clearances checked and then decide. > Eric This is well said and very down to earth. OV cource YOUR VALVES are BeNt HOW THE FUK can you turn the cam by hand SUPERMAN AUSTESSS >OV cource YOUR VALVES are BeNt > >HOW THE FUK can you turn the cam by hand SUPERMAN > >AUSTESSS I'm not sure about the 84 Civics but the 86-89 Accords DON'T have interference-type engines. I had my timing belt snap when I was cruising into work at 60mph around five years ago. I immediately thought the valves were toast since I had always been under the assumption that all Hondas had interference engines. I checked Matta Motors's website(www.mattamotors.com) and discovered that I was wrong. I simply replaced the belt and it's still running like a champ. I would email or call Matta Motors since they've been Honda specialists for over 20 years. >>OV cource YOUR VALVES are BeNt >> [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > DON'T have > interference-type engines. According to gates.com , the only Honda auto engines that are non-interference are the 3.2 liter Passports. > I had my timing belt snap when I was cruising into > work at 60mph around five years ago. I immediately thought > the valves were > toast since I had always been under the assumption that > all Hondas had > interference engines. The valves don't always get destroyed when the TB fails. > I checked Matta Motors's website(www.mattamotors.com) Unfortunately the link to the TBs at this web site does not seem to be working. I don't like that Matta says, at its home site, not to get talked into replacing one's TB before 105k miles/8 years. That's wrong for my 91 Civic, for one. Its interval is 90k miles/6 years, per the owner's manual. > According to gates.com , the only Honda auto engines that are > non-interference are the 3.2 liter Passports. I lost confidence when I saw Gates listed the Volvo B230F engine as interference. It's been pretty well hashed over on alt.autos.volvo, and the experts agree it is a clearance engine even with the non-standard high lift ("K") cam. However, it probably beats a wild guess. Mike > "Elle" <honda.lioness@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote >> According to gates.com , the only Honda auto engines that [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > clearance engine even with the non-standard high lift > ("K") cam. However, it probably beats a wild guess. Interesting. I wonder if there's some subtlety in certain engine designs that result in their being a gray area here. > "Michael Pardee" <michaeltnull@cybertrails.com> wrote >>> According to gates.com , the only Honda auto engines [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > engine designs that result in their being a gray area > here. Oops. I reckon it has indeed been a long afternoon bustin' a control arm bolt free! You give a lead to one important subtlety right above, and it went right by me! since there is no belt, it is real easy to turn the cam by hand ;) |
Reply to this Message |
 Sign In
 Join
 My Latest Posts My Monitored Threads My Blog My Photo Gallery My Profile My Homepage Start New Thread Enable EMail Alerts Rate this Thread
|
©2008 Advenet LLC Privacy Policy - Terms of Use
This website includes both content owned or controlled by Advenet as well as content owned or controlled by third parties.