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Car Forum / Honda Cars / April 2006

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88 Accord Timing

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Gabbie - 08 Apr 2006 18:02 GMT
Hello,

Could someone let me know the correct timing procedure for this car.
My accord is a automatic and has the distributor with the two vacuum hoses
on it.

I tried per a Clinton manual and it indicates to remove and plug the two
vacuum hoses on the vacuum advance ( I do have this on mine style of carb).
However, if I remove the left one as you face the engine, it really runs
bad. Prior to making any changes the timing light was on the first white
mark closest to the timing light. I went ahead and timed it with the hoses
attached and set the timing on the red mark per the manual.  I suspect this
is incorrect, however it does seems to run better. But I think it could run
a little better if I got it correct.  Have one red mark in the middle of two
white marks for the timing marks.

Could someone please let me know if you have any ideas?

Thanks,

Terry
Headknocker - 08 Apr 2006 19:36 GMT
>Hello,
>
[quoted text clipped - 17 lines]
>
>Terry

I have an '88 Accord and I have always felt the directions for setting the
timing to be a little confusing. It also doesn't help that the directions in
my Haynes manual and the Factory Service manual don't jive.

I used the directions in the Haynes manual (which coincides with those in
your Chilton manual) the first time I did the procedure and the timing was
WAY off since I was setting it at 15 degrees BTDC(the red mark).   Per the
Factory Service manual, the timing should at 4 degrees BTDC with the vacuum
hoses plugged although I don't ever recall seeing that mark.

You actually set it correctly. Keep the hoses connected and put your auto
trans in gear (using the emergency brake to hold it) and align the pointer
with the RED mark. That's IT.

I was baffled by this myself and I came to the conclusion that the folks at
Haynes and Chilton misunderstood Honda's instructions. The only real reason
to remove to vacuum hoses is to check if the vacuum advance is working
properly..which is done with a vacuum pump gauge.

BTW, my '88 is still running like a top at 239,000 miles. I'm amazed at the
thing.
gateway - 08 Apr 2006 23:44 GMT
Hello,

Thanks for the information.  What I can not figure out is if you disconnect
the vacuum hoses, it runs so bad I don't think the timing light is even close

to any timing marks? It sounds like when my vac hoses were connect it was at
0 degrees per the white mark?

Wish the manuals would only cover one model etc.  Its sort of a pain to make
sure your're always following instructions for the correct model.

Let me know if you receive this ok since I have another questions for ya.
I think you answered a previous email for someone else  conerning idealing .

I'm at 193K.

>>Hello,
>>
[quoted text clipped - 23 lines]
>BTW, my '88 is still running like a top at 239,000 miles. I'm amazed at the
>thing.
Eric - 09 Apr 2006 02:24 GMT
> Hello,
>
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
> Wish the manuals would only cover one model etc.  Its sort of a pain to
> make sure your're always following instructions for the correct model.

If you provide a valid email address then I will send you a copy of the
timing procedure from the factory Helm manual.  The manual discusses
removing the vacuum hoses to check for the presence of vacuum on the #2 hose
but then it shows in a diagram that the timing should be checked with both
vacuum hoses connected (and while in gear for the automatic).  However, it
does say to plug the hoses so it's not entirely clear.  It's been a long
time since I've worked on one of these units so I don't remember the exact
procedure that I used to follow.

Eric
gateway - 09 Apr 2006 06:42 GMT
Hello Eric,

Thanks, I would really appreciate that.  

gabbie73 at  verizon  dot    net

>> Hello,
>>
[quoted text clipped - 12 lines]
>
>Eric
gateway - 11 Apr 2006 04:21 GMT
Hello Eric,

Let me know if you are unable to figure out my email addess.
Just substitute the at and dot for the at symbol and period.

Gateway

>Hello Eric,
>
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
>>
>>Eric

Signature

Gateway

Matt Ion - 11 Apr 2006 05:23 GMT
>>Hello,
>>
[quoted text clipped - 14 lines]
> time since I've worked on one of these units so I don't remember the exact
> procedure that I used to follow.

See, that's exactly what I said about that manual - the instructions are
vague, contradictory, or just poorly worded - and I got absolutely sh.t 
on by the "experts" in here.  Nice to know I'm not the only one who sees
a problem here.

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Matt Ion - 11 Apr 2006 04:51 GMT
> Hello,
>
[quoted text clipped - 13 lines]
>
> Could someone please let me know if you have any ideas?

I ran into the same confusion with the factory shop manual, Terry, and
when I pointed it out as poor wording in the manual I got flamed no end.

In fact, you need to check the timing with the vacuum lines attached and
the car at a proper idle (650-850rpm depending on the exact model).  The
part of the procedure that has you pulling them off appears to be only
for the sake of testing that they have proper vacuum; the "outer" hose
(farthest from the distributor body) I believe is operational only while
the engine is cold, while the "inner" hose (labeled #2) is used during
normal running.

See if these pages help any:
http://www.moltenimage.com/freebies/g3accord/engine_electrical/24-4.JPG
http://www.moltenimage.com/freebies/g3accord/engine_electrical/24-5.JPG

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Headknocker - 11 Apr 2006 18:28 GMT
>> Hello,
>>
[quoted text clipped - 23 lines]
>avast! - copyright (c) 1988-2005 ALWIL Software.
>http://www.avast.com

No, you're certainly not alone. The Factory Service manual is vague and not
properly worded for this procedure. You have to read between the lines a
little bit since they never instruct you to reconnect the vacuum lines after
testing for vacuum. The Haynes manual's instructions are just flat-out wrong..
. I found out the hard way.

BTW, my '88 Accord passed NJ's inspection today with flying colors. It has
never been remotely close to failing for emissions. The car just keeps
chugging along.
Matt Ion - 11 Apr 2006 19:13 GMT
>>>Hello,
>>
[quoted text clipped - 29 lines]
> testing for vacuum. The Haynes manual's instructions are just flat-out wrong..
> . I found out the hard way.

I think the main source of confusion is in step 3: "Disconnect the
vacuum hose(s) from the vacuum advance and, while the engine idles,
check each hose for vacuum and plug the hoses." - I suspect it means to
PLUG IN the hoses.

> BTW, my '88 Accord passed NJ's inspection today with flying colors. It has
> never been remotely close to failing for emissions. The car just keeps
> chugging along.

Mine's coming up this week... as soon as I replace the distributor with
a leaky advance diaphragm.  Wish me luck!

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gateway - 12 Apr 2006 04:57 GMT
Hello Matt,

Thanks for the links.  Yes, this clears it up.  A long time ago I was going
to time it but
did not pursue it due to the mistake in the manual.  I knew I was probably on
the right
track since it did appear to run better after I went ahead and timed it
anyway with the hoses
attached.    You would think a later version of the manual would have some
corrections
in them however, the one I looked at still had the same wording.

Regards,

Gateway

>> Hello,
>>
[quoted text clipped - 23 lines]
>avast! - copyright (c) 1988-2005 ALWIL Software.
>http://www.avast.com

Signature

Gateway

Headknocker - 12 Apr 2006 16:12 GMT
>Hello Matt,
>
[quoted text clipped - 17 lines]
>>avast! - copyright (c) 1988-2005 ALWIL Software.
>>http://www.avast.com

This isn't related to the timing but it's something to know about the 86-89
Accords(if you didn't know already).

If your Accord won't kick down from fast idle then make sure to check out
Frequency Valve C as it's a common problem. I had this problem several years
ago and I traced it to Frequency Valve C. I bought a used one from Matta
Motors for $40 and I was told it was a very common problem on the 86-89
Accords. Just a little FYI.
gateway - 14 Apr 2006 06:48 GMT
Hello Headknocker,

Here this a uninstall/install procedure without any needed adjustment in
replacing the Frequency Valve C?

>>Hello Matt,
>>
[quoted text clipped - 10 lines]
>Motors for $40 and I was told it was a very common problem on the 86-89
>Accords. Just a little FYI.

Signature

Gateway

 
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