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Car Forum / Honda Cars / June 2006buying recommendation 94 Accord LX Wagon
I recently saw a 1994 Accord LX Wagon for sale by a private party with a 106k miles on it. Asking price was $3900. It looks very clean. I am looking for a car that can last a year without any major repairs. I was wondering if anyone has any comments on whether or not it is a good idea to buy a 94 Accord with this many miles on it? How many miles can a 94 Accord go before it needs a major repairs? Thanks in advance. >I recently saw a 1994 Accord LX Wagon for sale by a private >party with [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > How many miles can a 94 Accord go before it needs a major > repairs? 106k miles is typically mid-life for a c. 1990s Honda //assuming// it's been maintained. Seems like this newsgroup's most frequently reported used car major problem is serious cooling system leak. The sellers sell them knowing this is a problem but mask it, and unload it to unsavvy buyers. Drive the car for at least a half hour locally; maybe 15 minutes on the highway. Check the coolant reservoir level at the beginning, mid-way through and at the end. Obtain maintenance records if at all possible. When was this car's timing belt last changed? Consider paying an import shop mechanic to do a check of the car. S/he should look at the brakes, cooling system, tranny, etc., catching things you might easily miss. It's $50 or so well spent. edmunds.com has a used car appraiser (by mileage, general condition, geographic location, dealer price, private party price, etc.) that might be helpful in pricing. Thanks for the information Elle. The person selling the car says that she does not know if the timing belt has been changed or not. Apparently, the car belonged to her mother who is now elderly and has stopped driving. Besides regular oil changes, she does not remember her mother doing any service on the car so she tends to think that the timing belt has not been changed. I asked for maintenance records, but she said that except for some receipts for tires that were put on not long ago, there were no maintenance records for the car. At what mileage is the timing belt supposed to be changed? If it has not been changed, can it be changed now in order to extend the life of the car? Without any service records, can the shop mechanic tell whether or not it has been changed? One thing the owner did say is that the "boots" may need to be replaced. She said her mechanic told her it would cost $200 to do. She said she would be willing to deduct the repair cost from the sales price. I asked about the coolant situation. She said there were no leaks that she knew of, but I will try to take it for a 30 min ride as you advise to make sure. I understand an inspection from a mechanic is important. My friend recommended a mechanic, but I don't know if he specializes in imports. Is it absolutely necessary to have it checked by an import shop mechanic? > >I recently saw a 1994 Accord LX Wagon for sale by a private > >party with [quoted text clipped - 33 lines] > condition, geographic location, dealer price, private party > price, etc.) that might be helpful in pricing. I'd take a VERY close look at the coolant/radiator situation. If it has been neglected, RUN from that car. Take it to someone who has seen damage from dead coolant and trust their information. Car like that in good condition around here is very desirable. Figure at least $500 for timing and countershaft and accessory belts, new water pump and coolant change. Get new oil seals on the front of the engine too. Look at the fuel lines and power steering lines and gas tank for rust. Good Luck, and keep in touch. bob > The person selling the car says that she does not know if > the timing [quoted text clipped - 14 lines] > > At what mileage is the timing belt supposed to be changed? For the 94 Accord, for "normal driving," the timing belt should be replaced every 90k miles or six years, whichever comes first. For "severe driving," the belt is supposed to be changed every 60k miles, period. "Severe driving" includes driving in dusty conditions; lots of short distance driving; driving in extreme cold; and the like. Autozone.com has a free online repair manual for this Accord. For the full maintenance schedule ( = frequency of replacing various basic things), see http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/0c/f0 /9c/0900823d800cf09c.jsp > If it has > not been changed, can it be changed now in order to extend > the life of > the car? Absolutely. The only concern by not replacing it is that it could break at any time. Timing belts not changed at the Honda specified interval do break. If the timing belt breaks, the engine repairs may run into the thousands of dollars. > Without any service records, can the shop mechanic tell > whether or not it has been changed? Some clues that it has been changed may be evident, but, no, not really. > One thing the owner did say is that the "boots" may need > to be [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > from the sales > price. She most likely means CV boots. One can look under the car where the axle joins the wheel and see these roughly 1-inch to 3-inch normally sturdy looking rubber cones. If they have tears, they need to be replaced immediately, lest dirt and water ingress into the CV joint, leading to a much more expensive repair. It's not an unusual repair. Happens maybe every 8 years or so, depending on where and I suppose how one drives. > I asked about the coolant situation. She said there were > no leaks that > she knew of, but I will try to take it for a 30 min ride > as you advise > to make sure. Look for the coolant reservoir, and check its level, too. If you're not sure where it is, ask. Or, assuming you know where the radiator is (at the front, under the hood), follow the small (around 3/8-inch diameter) rubber hose attaching to the radiator fill neck (just under the radiator cap) to the reservoir bottle. It has a lid on it through which one may add more coolant. > I understand an inspection from a mechanic is important. > My friend [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > shop > mechanic? No, it's not. You might want to start a relationship with an import shop, though, especially since you know about the CV boots. Maybe call around and see how much they want in your area to replace them with new, genuine Honda ones. Call the local Honda dealer service department, too, for an estimate. Ask all also how much to do a timing belt, and what all that would include. It should include a new water pump, new shaft oil seals (like Bob said), among other things, too. Do not buy aftermarket parts for the CV boots. Buy only genuine Honda parts. If you wish, you can buy them online at a great price and take them to the shop for them to use. You might want to get the Edmunds.com used car appraiser price, then deduct the roughly $500 (like NE Bob estimated) for the timing belt and X dollars, depending on what local import shops say, for the boots. I agree with all else NE Ohio Bob says, too: Look for rust, etc. Any doubts or concerns, feel free to ask here. Plenty of others with good experience may chime in, so keep checking back. Make a list of things you want to check up close, then follow up. >> >I recently saw a 1994 Accord LX Wagon for sale by a >> >private [quoted text clipped - 44 lines] >> party >> price, etc.) that might be helpful in pricing. Thank you very much Bob and Elle. I will make a checklist of the points you mentioned and try to find an import shop mechanic for quotes on the repairs. I will post back as soon with what I find out. > > The person selling the car says that she does not know if > > the timing [quoted text clipped - 158 lines] > >> party > >> price, etc.) that might be helpful in pricing. I learned from a CarFax history report that the 94 Accord Wagon had been serviced several times at a local Honda Dealership. I called the dealership and spoke with the mechanic. He was able to look up the car in their system and learned that it had been serviced three times, but they only had record of one problem. For that situation, he said the car was taken in for service because the ABS warning light. I am not quite sure what they did, but apparently, he said something like they turned off the computer and restarted it, and the ABS warning light did not come back on. Since it did not come back on, it appears it was not a problem. This service was recorded in 2001. He did say that if there was a problem with the ABS it would cost $600 to replace. He had no record of the timing chain being replaced on the car. He said it would cost $800 to replace the timing chain, water pump and related items. He also said it would cost $175 to replace the CV boot on one axle. I talked to the seller and they said the Credit Union they belong to quoted the sales price of the car at $4100. Edmunds lists the Private Party TMV at $3697. NADA lists it at $3975. To compensate for the CV boots replacement, she said she already lowered the price for the car to $3900. The seller asked her mechanic about the timing chain replacement and was advised that it may or may not be changed. She sounds reluctant to lower the price to compensate for the timing chain replacement. I told her about the Edmunds TMV but the seller sounds she will only go with what her Credit Union told her for car value. I was going to take it for a test drive tomorrow and if that goes ok, an inspection. The Honda Dealership said they would inspect the car for $80. A couple of friends recommended local mechanics, I am not sure whether they are experienced in Imports though. I thought it would be best to take the car to the Honda Dealership for the inspection though. Am I right? I will call the other mechanics to get repair quotes for the timing chain and CV Boots also. Elle mentioned that the CV boots require Genuine Honda Parts. Do all shop mechanics have access to them? Thanks again. > Thank you very much Bob and Elle. > [quoted text clipped - 165 lines] > > >> party > > >> price, etc.) that might be helpful in pricing. >I learned from a CarFax history report that the 94 Accord >Wagon had [quoted text clipped - 26 lines] > the CV boot > on one axle. Sounds like the usual dealer prices. In other words, a bit high, but the service should be high quality. > I talked to the seller and they said the Credit Union they > belong to > quoted the sales price of the car at $4100. Edmunds lists > the Private > Party TMV at $3697. NADA lists it at $3975. I would print these out and offer to show them to the seller. She does not have to come down in price. But you're being reasonable. It's worth a try to bring her down, IMO. > To compensate for the CV boots replacement, she said she > already [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > may or may > not be changed. It's a belt, not a chain. Only much newer Hondas have the chain. I suggest you print out the official Honda maintenance schedule cited before and show her that the belt is supposed to be changed every 90k miles/6 years. If it hasn't been changed, it could break at any moment, quite likely causing catastrophic and expensive damage. Also google for {"timing belt" break interference} and print out the most reputable web sites that speak to this. If she's never changed the belt before, she's been negligent in her maintenance. She, not you, should have to pay for this. > She sounds reluctant to lower the price to compensate > for the timing chain replacement. I told her about the [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > that goes ok, > an inspection. Forgot to mention: On the test drive, listen for clicking coming from the front axles. This is a symptom of a failed CV joint. In other words, the boots might have let enough crud in that the whole joint is failing. That's a lot more expensive than just the boot. Here are more suggestions on checking this: http://tegger.com/hondafaq/faq_ii.html#CVjoints > The Honda Dealership said they would inspect the car for > $80. A couple [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > Dealership for > the inspection though. Am I right? Eighty dollars is a fair price, and I agree the Honda dealership will likely be more savvy about what to check. > I will call the other mechanics to get repair quotes for > the timing [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > Parts. Do all > shop mechanics have access to them? Not necessarily. What you can do is use an independent shop, but tell them you want to use genuine Honda parts and will provide them. Order the parts online from, say, http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&cat cgry1=Accord&catcgry2=1994&catcgry3=WGN+LX&catcgry4=KA5MT&catcgry5=DRIVESHAFT If the seller won't come down in price, I guess you have to weigh how soon you need the car and the availability of other ones like it in your area. If she won't come down for the timing belt, I think I'd start checking around now, before paying $80 for the inspection. Way to be thorough! I will be sure to listen carefully for any clicking on the front axle and look over the post you advised. I really like the car. If the coolent, CV joint and vehicle inspection check out ok, I figured offering 3200 to 3400 for the car and then continue to look for other options while the seller considers. Will post back with the results. I appreciate your taking the time to respond so quickly and thanks for the valuable information. > >I learned from a CarFax history report that the 94 Accord > >Wagon had [quoted text clipped - 122 lines] > > Way to be thorough! I just found another vehicle for sale by a car dealer. A 1998 Ford Escort with 47,800 miles. The dealer wants $5000 for it. Except for a small ding in the door, it looks to be in excellent condition. I took it for a test drive and it seems pretty good. For the 98 Escort, I found the following values: Edmunds lists the car dealer retail value at $4,006 Nada Guides lists the car value at Average Retail at $4,150 and High Retail at $4750 Kelly Blue Book suggested retail value is $4,185 The dealer says he will give me a 60 day warranty. I was wondering which is the better car value, a 94 Accord with 106k for $3900 (total would be around $4600 when adding the $700 or so for timing belt, CV boots to the purchase price) or the 98 Escort with 47k for $5000. I did not take the Honda for test drive yet, but hope to do so tomorrow. > I will be sure to listen carefully for any clicking on the front axle > and look over the post you advised. [quoted text clipped - 134 lines] > > > > Way to be thorough! > I just found another vehicle for sale by a car dealer. A 1998 Ford > Escort with 47,800 miles. The dealer wants $5000 for it. Except for a > small ding in the door, it looks to be in excellent condition. I took > it for a test drive and it seems pretty good. > The dealer says he will give me a 60 day warranty. > I was wondering which is the better car value, a 94 Accord with 106k > for $3900 (total would be around $4600 when adding the $700 or so for > timing belt, CV boots to the purchase price) or the 98 Escort with 47k > for $5000. How long will you be keeping the car? For all my opinion is worth (Heh - not much!!), I'd take the Honda as a long term ride. As with 'dog years' the Ford will age more quickly than the Honda and will have caught and passed it after another 50K or so. (150K Honda is arguably a better car than a 100K Escort.) If the seller will lower the price, I'd take the Whale for sure. If this is an interim car......Idunnow. Too close to call. > I did not take the Honda for test drive yet, but hope to do so > tomorrow. Take your time and get as complete an impression as possible. -Greg Thank you for your information Greg. Very interesting. I look forward to test driving the Honda to see how it feels. Will post back. > > I just found another vehicle for sale by a car dealer. A 1998 Ford > > Escort with 47,800 miles. The dealer wants $5000 for it. Except for a [quoted text clipped - 24 lines] > > -Greg > I was wondering which is the better car value, a 94 > Accord with 106k [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > Escort with 47k > for $5000. To help with this decision, I suggest going to the April issue of "Consumer Reports." This is its annual car buying issue. Turn to the matrices indicating reliability of different cars' sub-systems, based on thousands (a couple hundred thousand, IIRC) of readers' input. Look up the matrix for the Ford Escort, then the matrix for the Accord. I just read an interesting article on Consumer Reports on reliability as cars get older. http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/cars/reliability/reliability-trends-406/overv iew/index.htm According to this article, it seems that the 12 year old Honda will cause me less trouble than a 8 year old Ford. The trends in reliability on Consumer Reports only go back as far a 1998 so I could not check the 94 Accord. From 98 till 2005, the Accord consistenlty gets "Much Better than Average" rating for Used Car verdict. The Used Car Verdict was Average for the 98 Escort. > > I was wondering which is the better car value, a 94 > > Accord with 106k [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > hundred thousand, IIRC) of readers' input. Look up the > matrix for the Ford Escort, then the matrix for the Accord. >I just read an interesting article on Consumer Reports on >reliability [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > Honda will > cause me less trouble than a 8 year old Ford. Yet my impression is that properly maintained American cars are lasting about as long as Japanese makes these days. Overall, I still think a person is better off with a Honda or Toyota, but I must admit I know people swearing by their 15 year old American makes. > The trends in reliability on Consumer Reports only go back > as far a [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > verdict. The Used Car Verdict was Average for the 98 > Escort. To be very exacting, you could see if the library has the April 2002 (or so) car buying issue. This might have the 94 Accord. Just went for a test drive on the 94 Accord. Before starting the car, I checked the coolant reservoir and it was a little low. The car owner did not have any antifreeze to mix in so he got some distilled water and filled the reservoir to the minimum level. He did not want to add any more because he said he should add 50/50 mix of antifreeze and water to the reservoir and we did not have antifreeze with us. After a good 25 minute drive (15 minutes of that on the expressway) we stopped and turned off engine and checked reservoir again. It looked like it was still at the minimum level. It looked like there was no change at all in the level. The temperature gauge did not indicate any problem. Would this mean the coolant situation is fine? I did a couple of 360 degrees slow turns in the parking lot and there was no sound coming from the CV joints. The car seemed to drive really well. I really felt the bumps in the road so maybe I can ask the mechanic to check the suspension. I listened carefully for any brake noise but heard none. The car accelerated fine and seemed to have enough power. We climbed a very steep hill on a highway in our area going 55mph. The car dropped into a lower gear during our drive up the hill and the downshift seemed to be a little rough, but nothing that really alarmed me. The car pulls a little to the right when I was on the expressway. The steering wheel seems to be a little cockeyed to the right. Is that a big problem? The A/C worked really well. Cruise and all the power options worked well too. Back two doors were a little stiff when opening and it looked like there was some rust on the hinges. Apparently, the back doors were seldom opened. I did not notice any rust on body of car. Apparently the drivers side seatbelt got closed into the door several times so there is some minor damage on the inside of the drivers side door. It seems the seatbelt won't retract powerfully when released, but with a quick pull, retracts nearly all the way. I think this 94 Accord wagon would be better for my wife and daughter than the 98 Escort because of the size. I would like to get it inspected and hopefully get the buyer to go drop their price a little to compensate for the timing belt change I would need to do. I will try to go for the inspection on Monday. > >I just read an interesting article on Consumer Reports on > >reliability [quoted text clipped - 25 lines] > April 2002 (or so) car buying issue. This might have the 94 > Accord. > Just went for a test drive on the 94 Accord. > > Before starting the car, I checked the coolant reservoir > and it was a > little low. Had the car been driven in the last hour or so before the above check? > The car owner did not have any antifreeze to mix in so he > got some distilled water and filled the reservoir to the [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > not have > antifreeze with us. That's reasonable. > After a good 25 minute drive (15 minutes of that on the > expressway) we [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > indicate any > problem. Would this mean the coolant situation is fine? It should rise a little. Then again, all might be fine. > I did a couple of 360 degrees slow turns in the parking > lot and there [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > road so maybe I can ask the mechanic to check the > suspension. Look especially at control arm bushings and the coil springs. Chances are they are pretty raggedy, but I suspect the Edmunds etc. prices on 94 Accords take this into account. > I listened carefully for any brake noise but heard none. > The car [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > Is that a > big problem? May need some suspension renovation, followed by an alignment. Or it may just need, say, something like the tire pressure adjusted. Suspension renovation on these older cars is expensive. $1000 or so, easily, I bet. But unless something's obviously broken (like a ball joint or coil spring) I don't think that's something you can negotiate. It's about ride comfort. At most, you could subtract $100 from your offer for an alignment. > The A/C worked really well. Cruise and all the power > options worked [quoted text clipped - 24 lines] > > I will try to go for the inspection on Monday. Nice update. > <webmaster@tfy.com> wrote >> The car pulls a little to the right when I was on the [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > May need some suspension renovation, followed by an > alignment. Forgot to add: Make sure the mechanic looks at the big trailing arm bushings. There are two, on the rear. The cost is over $300 (labor and parts) to replace them with OEM ones. It's not necessarily critical to replace ones that look beat up. But handling will certainly be better, by all reports here. (I replace my 91 Civic's next week. They're way overdue.) If they look really bad, consider negotiating this into the price. Hello Elle....thanks for letting me know what to watch out for. I am making a list to take with me when I get the vehicle inspected. I hope I can go today. Will post back with results. > > <webmaster@tfy.com> wrote > >> The car pulls a little to the right when I was on the [quoted text clipped - 16 lines] > overdue.) If they look really bad, consider negotiating this > into the price. I just went for an inspection on the 94 Accord LX Wagon at a Honda Dealership. Here is a list of the major items found and their quoted repair costs: Left Outer CV Boot ($150) Right Axle Assembly (shaft) ($250) Right Outer Tie Rod End Loose ($50 or $150 (can't read quote)) Brakes: Front Brake Pads 3mm Rear Brake Pads 7mm The dealer says front brakes need to be replaced pretty quick, while rear brakes may last a bit. Other Items should be replaced: New Dome Light Bulb Wiper Blades Battery Air Filter Muffler (owner says it's under warranty and she can have it replaced for me for free) They said the front right pull is due to the loose Front Right Tie Rod. After fixing the Tie Rod, they said an alignment would be necessary. I guess that is $100 or so. I am trying to get quotes from different shops on repairs. One shop quoted %$500 to $600 on the Timing Belt. But with the Timing Belt and the other problems, looks like I might need to spend at least $800. The owner lowered her price to $3600. I think she should go lower though. Edmunds lists Private Party True Market Value at $3697. To what degree are these repairs accounted for in the Edmunds price? Any suggestions on a fair price to pay considering the repairs? > > <webmaster@tfy.com> wrote > >> The car pulls a little to the right when I was on the [quoted text clipped - 16 lines] > overdue.) If they look really bad, consider negotiating this > into the price. Obviously the repairs can be done cheaper with an independent repair facility. Edmunds allows for you to factor the mileage and the condition of the car to give you the fair market price. When I sold my wife's the exterior was in very good condition and the only issues with it were the fuel guage didn't work and the antennae would not retract. $3600 including the items you have listed is too high. I believe the timing belt should have been replaced at 60,000 miles as opposed to 100,000 which is common today but don't quote me on that. Not having seen the car, I would subtract the $1000 in repairs the dealer quoted from her original asking price or offer what Edmunds says the value is for fair condition. When she balks at the $2900 offer ask what she will seriously take considering the repair work that is needed. Then go from there. If it were me I wouldn't spend less than $3200 but I would do the brakes and other minor repairs myself and leave the boot, tie rod end, & axle assembly to a repair shop as I don't have the tools needed and haven't attempted those repairs before. >I just went for an inspection on the 94 Accord LX Wagon at a Honda > Dealership. [quoted text clipped - 56 lines] >> overdue.) If they look really bad, consider negotiating this >> into the price. Thanks for the post Patrick, >From conversations with her, it seems she does not want to spend money on the car to do any repairs. I think she would be more inclined to lower the price. But, well have to see how much she will drop. With all that needs to be done to the car, I don't think I can pay what she is asking now. I will have to talk to some more independent shops to get some quotes on getting the work done. I will post back with what I find out. > Obviously the repairs can be done cheaper with an independent repair > facility. Edmunds allows for you to factor the mileage and the condition of [quoted text clipped - 76 lines] > >> overdue.) If they look really bad, consider negotiating this > >> into the price. >I just went for an inspection on the 94 Accord LX Wagon at >a Honda [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > Right Outer Tie Rod End Loose ($50 or $150 (can't read > quote)) The part costs about $28 from online OEM parts places like www.slhonda.com . Add another $7 for shipping. I understand it's pretty easy to replace. Could be just $50 total, but you should double check. Good for you for spotting the steering problem and then Honda finding the cause (hopefully). > Brakes: > Front Brake Pads 3mm [quoted text clipped - 17 lines] > necessary. I > guess that is $100 or so. Correct. My local dealer wants $80, IIRC from speaking with them a week ago. > I am trying to get quotes from different shops on repairs. > One shop [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > > Edmunds lists Private Party True Market Value at $3697. What "Vehicle condition" did you put in for this price? Of the five categories of "vehicle condition," I think this 94 Accord LX qualifies as being somewhere between "Average" and "Rough" in condition. Edmunds gives info on what it means for each category. If the timing belt did not need replacement, I'd say it's "average," from what you've written (though I can't remember the body and interior condition). > To what degree > are these repairs accounted for in the Edmunds price? Any > suggestions > on a fair price to pay considering the repairs? I think I'd be happy with something between the "rough" and "average" condition prices. On the other hand, how badly do you want the car? How likely is it that someone else might come along and pay what the seller is currently asking? Is the seller getting exasperated? (Not sure how experienced you are at negotiating something like this. You don't want her to just tell you to get lost. You're being thorough, and that's great.) That's my two cents. Average it with the other responses here. :-) Thanks again Elle, I used "Clean" as vehicle condition to get the Edmunds lists Private Party True Market Value at $3697. If I use "Average", the Edmunds lists Private Party True Market Value at $2,739. At rough, the TMV is $2,232. The car looks very very nice on the exterior and interior though. I will have to think it over a bit and get some quotes from private mechanics on the repairs. I will talk to the owner after I get some more information. My feeling is that she won't drop very far though, but, I will try to persuade her. > >I just went for an inspection on the 94 Accord LX Wagon at > >a Honda [quoted text clipped - 84 lines] > That's my two cents. Average it with the other responses > here. :-) > I used "Clean" as vehicle condition to get the Edmunds lists Private > Party True Market Value at $3697. If I use "Average", the > Edmunds > lists Private Party True Market Value at $2,739. At > rough, the TMV is > $2,232. Interesting how well these jive with your numbers. IOW, deducting the cost of all the repairs except the TB (so assume about $900, by my count) from the seller's current asking price of $3600 puts the price at $2700. Figure another $600 for the timing belt and we're down to $2100. > The car looks very very nice on the exterior and interior > though. [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > persuade > her. Maybe she's thinking she can find a buyer who won't be so thorough. I hope you find some other leads. More options is always better. :-) > >I just went for an inspection on the 94 Accord LX Wagon at > >a Honda [quoted text clipped - 84 lines] > That's my two cents. Average it with the other responses > here. :-) I would seriously look for another car. Keeripes! That car seems to have more issues than my (non running at the time) project car which only cost $100... JT > Had the car been driven in the last hour or so before the > above check? I am pretty sure the car had not been driven an hour before the check. It had probably not been driven for a day or more. > > Just went for a test drive on the 94 Accord. > > [quoted text clipped - 105 lines] > > Nice update. > I recently saw a 1994 Accord LX Wagon for sale by a private party with > a 106k miles on it. Asking price was $3900. It looks very clean. [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > I was wondering if anyone has any comments on whether or not it is a > good idea to buy a 94 Accord with this many miles on it? IF the car has been reasonably maintained, with regular oil/fluid changes changes being most important, 100k is no big deal for an Accord. > How many miles can a 94 Accord go before it needs a major repairs? A whole bunch. It just so happens that I bought a '92 Wagon last February. It had 140K well maintained miles. Here's a list of the car's ailments. Most problems are 'normal' and can be probably be expected, to one degree or another, with any 100K+ car. Suspension is sloppy. The car feels vague in crosswinds and meanders slightly when braking. With all the joints/bushings to check/replace, this will be a long term DIY project. The right side drive axle (CV joint) is starting to make noise and will need replacing soon. The rubber boot is intact, so I'm not sure why it's having problems. I suspect the joints eventually wear out if the grease isn't cleaned out and repacked every few years. Prior owner recently changed the timing belt. This is an absolute must by 100K. (I think 90K is the service limit.) Bad sh*t will happen if the belt breaks. Speaker are shot. AC worked when I bought it, but has a hidden slow leak. In Tucson, in June, this is a BAD THING! The only 'problem' is a sporadic check engine light and occasional off-idle stumble. The engine code indicates an EGR problem. (This is hardly 'normal wear,' but is not 100% unexpected either.) I pulled the access plugs and checked/cleaned the ports to no avail. They were grungy but still flowing well enough.) It must be the valve or control solenoid. On the positive side. The engine burns only half a quart per 5K miles. After 5.5K miles, the oil (M1) is finally getting somewhat dark. Clearly, the rings (and hopefully, the rest of the engine core!) are in great shape. You'll hear lots of anecdotal reports of 200K Honda engines. They are very well built and can go forever if you keep the oil clean and fresh. 32~33MPG commute (driving like a granny, anticipating those #$@# red lights), 36+ freeway if I cruise around along at ~60MPH (two lane state highways and the like), back to ~31 on the superslab at 70+. Solid body/interior construction. No rattling doors, broken handles, disintegrating console knobs, or the like. Transmission feels great; smooth, sure sh.ts with no hang-ups or synchro issues. (Filling it with Honda's MTF vastly improved the feel and shifting ease.) Overall: I paid 3000 (a little too much?) and am content with what I got. 3900 is probably a few hundred too much, unless it's in superb running order. -Greg > Transmission feels great; smooth, sure sh.ts with no hang-ups . . . ------------------------------------------ Yep . . . . We've been increasing our dietary fibre and everything works better at our house too, except there's less reading time in the day now. Stay loose, 'Curly' >>Transmission feels great; smooth, sure sh.ts with no hang-ups . . . > [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > > 'Curly' LOL!!!!!!!!!!!! (Whoopsie!) Dang 'f' key must be a bit sticky. :) If, as I age, I start to feel the needs for 'sureness,' I'll just chug a teaspoon or two of MTF! <Still LOLOLOLOL.............Hehehehehehhehehe!> -Greg I sold my wife's 1994 LX Sedan last March. It had the same mileage as your wagon. No major problems with it. Only major repair was a crack in the radiator some years ago. Otherwise everything else was minor maintenance. My wife hated to get rid of it but we needed a minivan. Ended up getting $3500. >I recently saw a 1994 Accord LX Wagon for sale by a private party with > a 106k miles on it. Asking price was $3900. It looks very clean. [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > > Thanks in advance. Thanks for the post Patrick...if the inspection goes well, I was also thinking of offering $3500 for the 94 LX Wagon. > I sold my wife's 1994 LX Sedan last March. It had the same mileage as your > wagon. No major problems with it. Only major repair was a crack in the [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > > > > Thanks in advance. |
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