Thanks for the response, Dave. Your remarks were right on, including what a
HUGE PITA this project is. I waited until I had the manual in hand, and it
has helpful pictures near the back for the R&R of each type of bulb, just
not helpful enough when it comes to those &@#^ plastic clips holding the
fender liner in place. I broke one of the two that had to be removed, but it
is holding enough to keep the fender liner in place until I get a supply of
them later today. Interestingly enough, while I was laying on the ground
scrabbling around for one of those clips, I discovered a truly serious
problem. The connecting link that connects the right side of the front roll
bar to the lower suspension member had separated . I'm going to address that
today. Thank God I dropped that clip!
> You'll have to turn the wheel to the left or right depending which
> headlight is out. Also have to pull some screws/tabs from the wheel well,
[quoted text clipped - 18 lines]
>>> Unplug the connector,then twist.Reverse for installation.
>>> Don't touch the glass envelope with your bare hands or fingers.
Dave L - 22 Jul 2006 03:29 GMT
You're welcome. I remember changing the bulb a while back and also broke
one of the clips. Considering how easy it is on other cars I have to
scratch my head on this one. Looking on the brighter side, you discovered
another problem before anythg serious happened.
Good luck with the suspension!
-Dave
> Thanks for the response, Dave. Your remarks were right on, including what
> a HUGE PITA this project is. I waited until I had the manual in hand, and
[quoted text clipped - 30 lines]
>>>> Unplug the connector,then twist.Reverse for installation.
>>>> Don't touch the glass envelope with your bare hands or fingers.
TeGGeR® - 22 Jul 2006 22:06 GMT
> You're welcome. I remember changing the bulb a while back and also
> broke one of the clips.
What was the design of your clips? Was it the kind with a Phillips head
cross in it, or was it the kind with two small notches in the head 180
degrees from each other?

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Steppenwolf - 23 Jul 2006 12:10 GMT
It's the one with the two small notches, where popping out the center will
allow the three plastic legs to be pulled out of the hole. In removing them,
the plastic legs have a tendency to break. Flimsy...
And in response to the other comment, I know that the broken link is not of
immediate seriousness, otherwise I would not be allowing my wife to drive it
to work while we wait for the local Honda dealer to get one in stock. It's
supposed to be in early this week and she has an appointment for Wednesday
for repair (warranty). They removed the dangling end of the link so it
wouldn't flail around and strike other objects within it's reach, which it
had been doing, was my more immediate concern. She is a safe and
level-headed driver who I can trust to not approach the handling limits of
her car, unless in an emergency maneuver. I'm satisfied that the lack of a
sway bar doesn't represent an serious and immediate danger to her.
>> You're welcome. I remember changing the bulb a while back and also
>> broke one of the clips.
>
> What was the design of your clips? Was it the kind with a Phillips head
> cross in it, or was it the kind with two small notches in the head 180
> degrees from each other?
Dave L - 31 Jul 2006 00:43 GMT
>> You're welcome. I remember changing the bulb a while back and also
>> broke one of the clips.
>
> What was the design of your clips? Was it the kind with a Phillips head
> cross in it, or was it the kind with two small notches in the head 180
> degrees from each other?
Sorry it took so long to respond. Kept forgetting to check when I went to
the car! The clip just pushes in, and does not have a Phillips head. It
was a round, flat head.
-Dave
TeGGeR® - 22 Jul 2006 22:04 GMT
> Interestingly enough, while I was laying on the ground scrabbling
> around for one of those clips, I discovered a truly serious problem.
> The connecting link that connects the right side of the front roll bar
> to the lower suspension member had separated.
Bosh. It's not very serious at all. You didn't even know about it until you
saw it, did you? You didn't notice ANY difference in handling, did you?
> I'm going to address
> that today.
Easy replacement. You can buy each side individually at the dealer. Get
some silicone or other rubber-safe Permatex lubricant to grease up the
rubber bushings.
Tackle the job whever you feel like it. No hurry.

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jim beam - 22 Jul 2006 22:26 GMT
"TeGGeR����������������������" wrote:
>> Interestingly enough, while I was laying on the ground scrabbling
>> around for one of those clips, I discovered a truly serious problem.
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
> Bosh. It's not very serious at all. You didn't even know about it until you
> saw it, did you? You didn't notice ANY difference in handling, did you?
if the link separates, it can be serious - if you're used to a certain
roll characteristic and suddenly it's not there, you can end up upside
down in a field at the side of the road. i /guarantee/ you notice the
difference - i've experimented with sway bars extensively.
>> I'm going to address
>> that today.
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
>
> Tackle the job whever you feel like it. No hurry.
TeGGeR® - 22 Jul 2006 22:46 GMT
> "TeGGeR���������������������ï
> ¿½" wrote:
[quoted text clipped - 12 lines]
> down in a field at the side of the road. i /guarantee/ you notice the
> difference - i've experimented with sway bars extensively.
For your average everyday driver who does not push the limit of his car in
the manner of a racer or experimenter, a broken stabilizer bar link is
quite invisible indeed. Such a driver will lose tire traction and plow into
the ditch well before he rolls the car due to an inactive anti-roll bar.
We are also dealing with a car driven by the OP's wife. Women as a rule do
*not* push their cars to the limit in *any* sense of the word, other than
how many kids they can cram into the vehicle on their way to
Chuck-E-Cheese.

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jim beam - 23 Jul 2006 01:34 GMT
"TeGGeR����������������������" wrote:
>> "TeGGeR����������������������
>> ��" wrote:
[quoted text clipped - 21 lines]
> how many kids they can cram into the vehicle on their way to
> Chuck-E-Cheese.
interestingly enough, the loaded car is /exactly/ the situation where
the sway bar's function is going to be most apparent to the "average"
driver. when transitioning from a lean in one direction to a lean in
the other, like when you're on the freeway having to do an emergency
lane change because of some dangerous behavior ahead, if the return rate
of the first lean happens to coincide with the turn-in rate of the
second lean, and unfortunately there's a strong coincidence, suddenly
you have a very dangerous roll moment. that's the mechanism by which
heavy high center of gravity suv's flip over. heavily loaded cars can
do it too.
sway bars do two things: raise the return rate so the chances of the
driver turning into the second lean hard enough and fast enough to get
this "coincidence" is much reduced. secondly, it reduces the actual
degree of lean, so the overall body return moment is reduced in the
first place.
sway bars aren't on all cars because they're associated with "sports",
and unfortunately, the kind of bean counters that run car companies have
all been to the same "management" school that tells them they must
differentiate between product and extract the highest dollar for every
marginal difference possible. if engineering school attendance was
mandatory for these people, cars would be much safer. fortunately for
more modern vehicles, the european "moose test" and thread of class
action law suits keeps the worst behavior at bay, but it doesn't mean
there's not significant room for improvement.
if you want to test all this, it's easy enough to disconnect the sway
bars on your integra. just wire the ends up out of the way and the
suspension can move through full travel without problem. put some bags
of sand in the back seats if you really want to believe.