I've always found it far more efficient to just replace the whole shaft.  Takes
about 10 minutes, start to finish, and if the outer joint is going, the inner
joint is probably ready to be replaced as well.

The outer joint is held on by a clip.  However, it's inside the joint and
cannot be accessed when the joint is on the shaft.

I have removed the joint using two techniques.  The first one usually only
works if the joint is very worn and is just flopping about on the end of the
shaft.  You must enlist a brave volunteer.  This person will hold the shaft
near the inner joint such that the shaft is pointing straight down and the
outer joint is level and has had the boot and clips removed.  You then take
two 32 oz ball peen hammers, one in each hand, and swing them like an ape
man such that they strike both sides of the outer joint at precisely the
same time.  If the joint doesn't come off after two or three blows, then it
probably isn't going to come off via this technique.  What happens is that
the groove that holds the clip ring starts getting flared out preventing the
outer joint from coming off and hitting it further will just make the joint
more and more less likely to come off and further damages the splines.

The second technique involves judicious use of an oxy-acetylene cutting
torch.  The outer race is fairly straight forward to cut off although it is
a bit messy as the grease will catch on fire as it's dripping out of the
joint.  The inner race is more difficult since it's right next to the
splined shaft.  If the person wielding the cutting torch is highly skilled,
then they can usually cut off the inner race without causing appreciable
damage to the splines of the shaft directly underneath inner race.
Sometimes, even with the greatest of care, it's still necessary to smooth
out the splines with a flat file.

A third possible technique, which I have never used, could be to use a
special adapter for an air hammer which is designed to apply force equally
to all sides of the outer joint's inner race.  However, with this method
you'll still likely run into the problems with the clip ring I mentioned in
the first technique.

In either of the above cases, the inner joint should be rebooted.
Disassemble the joint, remove as much grease as possible without using
solvent, keep it impeccably clean, regrease it and reassemble the unit being
careful to keep the inner tripod in it's original orientation.  Some techs
have problems and get dirt in the joints while they're apart.  This will
lead to their premature failure so cleanliness is critical.  The other
important step is to equalize the air inside the boots of both joints such
that they can move throughout their normal range of motion without putting
tension on the boot.  For example, if there isn't enough air in the inner
boot then it will likely pop out of the transmission while you're driving
down the road.

Given the limitations with the above techniques for removing the outer
joint, it's a whole lot easier to buy a remanufactured shaft with a warranty
and just replace the whole thing.  Honda sells a high quality rebuilt shaft
and you can check the price and availability at
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com or http://www.slhonda.com.

Eric