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Car Forum / Honda Cars / October 200690 Honda accord starting problem
Hi All, we have a 90 accord in the shop that would not start. After making sure it was not the timing belt,I pulled a plug wire to check for spark. With the plug wire off, and a piece of metal in it to check to ground for spark, there was none, then all of a sudden it started. At the customers request,we changed the plugs, wires, dist cap and rotor. Car started and ran fine for a while, but later would not start. Customer let it sit for a while, and got it started. Now I recall I had a 87 accord(My own car) about 7 years ago,that did the exact same thing.. Pull a plug wire off and it would start. I talked to this mechanic, and he had me change some type of coolant sensor, and that fixed it. The car will run as long as you want it to, but just give's us trouble on restarting. That was the same way my 87 did too. But I cant recall just what it was called, or where it was located. Does any one have an Idea on this problem? or what the sensor is called, and it's location? The motor is a 4 cylinder. Thanks, Tony > Hi All, we have a 90 accord in the shop that would not start. > After making sure it was not the timing belt,I pulled a plug wire to [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > rotor. Car started and ran fine for a while, but later would not > start. Customer let it sit for a while, and got it started. sounds like a main relay problem. see www.tegger.com It's a very common Honda/Acura problem part. > Now I recall I had a 87 accord(My own car) about 7 years ago,that did > the exact same thing.. Pull a plug wire off and it would start. [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > The motor is a 4 cylinder. > Thanks, Tony  SignatureJim Yanik jyanik at kua.net > Hi All, we have a 90 accord in the shop that would not start. ---------------------------------------------- Next time it happens (until you get the relay replaced / resoldered) you can just turn the key to position II and smack the dash or slam the driver's door. You'll hear the fuel pump run for three seconds and the engine will now start. The vibration will keep the relay working until you next shut it off.... It's also temperature related, so cooling the interior of the car usually works too. That's why it's famous for stranding people at 7-Eleven. You come out of the store and it won't start (interior is hot from the sun). You come back later and it starts. Sun has gone down in the meantime. Don't think of unbolting the relay, just slip it out of it's shell and take it inside to resolder. Should last the rest of the vehicle's life. 'Curly' > > Hi All, we have a 90 accord in the shop that would not start. > [quoted text clipped - 14 lines] > Don't think of unbolting the relay, just slip it out of it's shell and > take it inside to resolder. Should last the rest of the vehicle's life. <<<you > can just turn the key to position II and smack the dash or slam the > driver's door. You'll hear the fuel pump run for three seconds and the > engine will now start. Thanks, I'll have him try that Useful link too, Thanks Jim Tony > > > Hi All, we have a 90 accord in the shop that would not start. > > [quoted text clipped - 24 lines] > Useful link too, Thanks Jim > Tony Well another guy told him the same thing, about the main relay, told him to slam the door too, he got it started that way. He replaced the relay and so far so good! I opened up the old relay, but could not really see any bad solder joints. Is this something that you really can't see? You just re solder them any way? Also what all years have this main relay? Thanks, Tony The crack(s) might be very small. Maybe unnoticeable. There are some pictures on some this showing them (notice the ring around the posts. That's bad! ) http://techauto.tripod.com/mainrelay.htm . Just re-solder all joints to be sure. I did mine a few years ago on my '91 DX and still working well. >> > > Hi All, we have a 90 accord in the shop that would not start. >> > [quoted text clipped - 32 lines] >Also what all years have this main relay? >Thanks, Tony > I opened up the old relay, but could not really see any bad solder > joints. Is this something that you really can't see? You just re > solder them any way? Yep. > Also what all years have this main relay? Every blessed one of them, if they've got EFI. Late carbed cars got a simplified version called the "fuel cut" relay. It is not prone to the same problems as the EFI ones. SignatureTeGGeR® The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ >> I opened up the old relay, but could not really see any bad solder >> joints. Is this something that you really can't see? You just re [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > simplified version called the "fuel cut" relay. It is not prone to the > same problems as the EFI ones. SWAG; Carburators need less fuel pressure,and have a reservoir of fuel in their bowl that keeps the motor running long enough to avoid relay intermittents. SignatureJim Yanik jyanik at kua.net > Well another guy told him the same thing, about the main relay, told him > to [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > Is this something that you really can't see? You just re solder them any > way? Just resolder them all anyway, because you want to fix not only the ones that have cracked but also reflow the ones that are getting fatigued without visible cracks. When I was young I could see bad solder connections two feet away in fluorescent light. Now I need sunlight, I take off my glasses and put my face in close. A magnifier and good light are the best way to see them. Mike > > Well another guy told him the same thing, about the main relay, told him > > to [quoted text clipped - 14 lines] > > Mike All Right! Thanks For all the help info Links etc. This is a good thing to know. Tony |
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