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Car Forum / Honda Cars / October 2006Shuddering when taking off
I've had this frustrating problem with my 95 Civic (SOHC 1.6L PGM-FI non-vtec D16 variant, manual). It sometimes shakes/shudders when taking off from a full stop. I could prevent the shuddering by stepping on the gas more. I've replaced plugs, wires, rotor, PCV, timing belt, fuel filter (all Honda parts), but sometimes the problem returns. When the timing belt was being replaced, I noticed that the rubber on the driver-side engine mount was cracked, about half-way through. Two different mechanics have told me that since the mount is relatively new, the crack couldn't cause the shaking, and that if it did, it would also shake at idle, which it doesn't. Is this true? Please enlighten me, if the cracked mount caused the shaking, wouldn't it shake all the time? Thanks! > I've had this frustrating problem with my 95 Civic (SOHC 1.6L PGM-FI > non-vtec D16 variant, manual). It sometimes shakes/shudders when taking [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > > Thanks! Hi, Clutch? > I've had this frustrating problem with my 95 Civic (SOHC 1.6L PGM-FI > non-vtec D16 variant, manual). It sometimes shakes/shudders when taking [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > > Thanks! Hmmm, hard to say from just reading about it, but maybe you have a clutch problem. A badly worn clutch or a clutch with oil on it from a leaking engine or transmission seal can cause a judder on start up. A cracked motor mount should be replaced. It probably isn't the cause of your judder, but it sounds like the replacement mount might not have been of very high quality. There are a lot of short-lived rubber aftermarket parts on the market! Thanks. Will have the clutch checked ASAP. My F20A had this, cause was a crack in distributor's induction *coil's insulating lacquer. www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/catimgs/13sm40_f02.gif #18. 1 electrician said copper wire's lacquer, given too much heat, will crack then *'s high voltage will escape to -ve ground = no spark. Fitting * inside distributor is a design flaw ; beside lacquer's crack, * produces fewer amperes when hot ( proof : if 1 glues hsinks or use wires to cool distributor & * inside, sparks will be bigger, & exhaust noise will drop ). Better carry a spark plug, to chk for a spark, if engine stalls. TE: thanks, that's very interesting. I think it's another likely suspect, because the problem comes and goes. Also, the problem is worst after the ECU is reset, and smoothes out over time. Is there any way to check the induction coil? Can I repair it, and can you please explain more about adding a heatsink or "wire" to the distributor and induction coil? > My F20A had this, cause was a crack in distributor's induction > *coil's insulating lacquer. [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > > Better carry a spark plug, to chk for a spark, if engine stalls. > TE: thanks, that's very interesting. I think it's another likely > suspect, because the problem comes and goes. Also, the problem is worst [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > you please explain more about adding a heatsink or "wire" to the > distributor and induction coil? emil, be very very careful trying to make sense of chea's posts. most of it is nonsense. the rest, stupid. this will give you a clue: http://groups.google.com/group/alt.autos.honda/msg/88e6263c168269f3?hl=en& >> My F20A had this, cause was a crack in distributor's induction >> *coil's insulating lacquer. [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] >> >> Better carry a spark plug, to chk for a spark, if engine stalls. | any way to check the induction coil? I'm not sure, mine ( may be a transformer ) 1st failed only when hot & during acceleration from idling, not easy to simulate the same conditions. http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/0 c/f2/cb/0900823d800cf2cb.jsp teaches chking these copper wires, but not their insulation lacquer. | Can I repair it Unlikely ; copper coil is sealed in a plastic casing. See what your automobile-electrician says. 1 can buy a re-con coil, my whole distributor is a re-con ( retailed @ M$ 280 = ~US$ 75.27 ). | please explain more about adding a heatsink or "wire" to the | distributor and induction coil? I tried to post 1 photo, but none is allowed in these NG`s. 1 can glue hsinks, or fit copper wires from distributor cap's bolts ( ideally with washer-connectors & silver paste ) to bolts on engine compartment walls, primarily to stop another lacquer crack, but exhaust noise drops too ( even more in my Mitsubishi 4G15P 's distributor, likewise cooled ). | > #18 correction - #16 > Thanks. Will have the clutch checked ASAP. clutch and motor mounts are prime suspects. and look for electrical stuff too - aged plugs can give a stuttering start. Thanks for the heads-up, jim! The plugs aren't that old (3 months), and I checked them last month. However, I opened up the distributor and saw that the rotor (2 months old) has a "burn mark" on it. The old rotor was replaced because of this same problem -- it was corroded badly in the exact same place. What could be causing it? Here's a pic of the rotor: http://hondaswap.com/attachments/general-tech-maintenance/1196d1161673365-strang e-distributor-rotor-problem-rotor_burn.jpg > Thanks for the heads-up, jim! The plugs aren't that old (3 months), and > I checked them last month. [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > > http://hondaswap.com/attachments/general-tech-maintenance/1196d1161673365-strang e-distributor-rotor-problem-rotor_burn.jpg that's entirely normal. the rotor and cap posts don't touch, so the spark has to jump the gap between them. the result is what you see. this is why the cap & rotor need replacement periodically, but that period is quite extended - usually something in the range of 100k miles. bottom line, make sure your electrical system is healthy, but expect it to cure what is most likely a mechanical problem with the clutch. don't try to modify the distributor. apart from early problems with igniters, honda engineers knew their business when designing that thing. the integrated coil and igniter ensure maximum spark energy without losses and signal noise in long leads. supposed problems with heat are b.s. - all components operate well within their capacity. So I guess the problem is narrowed down to the clutch... Will post back when I've had it checked out. Thanks again to everyone who replied! > I've had this frustrating problem with my 95 Civic (SOHC 1.6L PGM-FI > non-vtec D16 variant, manual). It sometimes shakes/shudders when taking [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > > Thanks! If it developed over a period of a few weeks or a couple months, I suspect the fuel injectors are getting dirty. The symptoms sound like the times I've had dirty injectors. A bottle of fuel injector cleaner (most people prefer Techron, but I've had as much luck with cheap cleaners like Pyroil) in the tank will make a difference within 100 miles and fix it entirely in 300 miles if that is the problem. Cheap and easy, it's worth a try. Mike Mike, thanks for the reply. I already tried putting in a bottle of fuel injector cleaner about a month ago. > Mike, thanks for the reply. I already tried putting in a bottle of fuel > injector cleaner about a month ago. I guess you can scratch that off your list! Mike |
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