Home | Contact Us | FAQ | Search & Site Map | Link to Us
Sign In | Join | Other 45 Sites in Network
HomeAnnouncements
Discussion Groups
By Brand
BMWChevroletDodgeFordGMHondaLexusMercedes-BenzNissanPeugeotToyotaVolkswagenOther Brands
By Topic
4x4 CarsRVsDrivingMaintenance & RepairCar AudioCollectible Cars
Country Specific
Australian ForumsUK Forums
ArticlesAuto InsuranceBuyingCars & TechnologyMaintenanceMiscellaneousSafety
DMV Resources
Related Topics
MotorcyclesBoatsMore Topics ...

Car Forum / Honda Cars / January 2007

Tip: Looking for answers? Try searching our database.

Spoiler LED Wire type

Thread view: 
Enable EMail Alerts  Start New Thread
Thread rating: 
Guest - 12 Jan 2007 06:30 GMT
What type of wire do you suggest using for wiring up the LED light on the spoiler?  I need to solder a new wire on since the "OEM" LED wire was so thin that it would melt.  Can I use copper speaker wire?
jim beam - 12 Jan 2007 14:06 GMT
>  
> What type of wire do you suggest using for wiring up the LED light on
> the spoiler?  I need to solder a new wire on since the "OEM" LED wire
> was so thin that it would melt.  Can I use copper speaker wire?

how do you know it would melt?  how much current is it conducting?
Unquestionably Confused - 12 Jan 2007 14:52 GMT
>>  
>> What type of wire do you suggest using for wiring up the LED light on
>> the spoiler?  I need to solder a new wire on since the "OEM" LED wire
>> was so thin that it would melt.  Can I use copper speaker wire?
>
> how do you know it would melt?  how much current is it conducting?

Uh, it COULD be due to the fact that he reverse connections earlier this
month and blew a fuse.  Then, after reconnecting it properly (he says),
he had still more problems.

Frankly, while I believe everyone should learn how to do this simple
stuff, I'm glad he's "learning" on his own vehicle and not someone
else's.  I hope that's the case anyway.

Search back on his posts.  The best recommendation for him MIGHT be to
find somebody who knows what they're doing and have them do it for him/her.
Guest - 12 Jan 2007 17:33 GMT
Signature

This post is Sponsored by:  www.overheadsoft.com

http://www.linkreferral.com/cgi-bin/linkreferal/adwel.cgi?oldrefid=20013

>>>  What type of wire do you suggest using for wiring up the LED light on
>>> the spoiler?  I need to solder a new wire on since the "OEM" LED wire
[quoted text clipped - 13 lines]
> find somebody who knows what they're doing and have them do it for
> him/her.

Well the Honda dealer would not touch it since it is an after market
spoiler.  I also feel that the guy did not know anything since he had little
words.  I think he was new.

All I am asking about are wire types or why this thin LED light wire keeps
melting.  Right now I bought some in-line fuses to see what happens next.
After that I will not have any wire left to try it once more.  Could wire
length have anything to do with it?  This wire was very long.
Guest - 12 Jan 2007 17:30 GMT
Signature

This post is Sponsored by:  www.overheadsoft.com

http://www.linkreferral.com/cgi-bin/linkreferal/adwel.cgi?oldrefid=20013

>>  What type of wire do you suggest using for wiring up the LED light on
>> the spoiler?  I need to solder a new wire on since the "OEM" LED wire was
>> so thin that it would melt.  Can I use copper speaker wire?
>
> how do you know it would melt?

Well it melted twice now.

how much current is it conducting?

That, I am not sure about but it could be 12v.
Michael Pardee - 12 Jan 2007 18:37 GMT
>>>  What type of wire do you suggest using for wiring up the LED light on
>>> the spoiler?  I need to solder a new wire on since the "OEM" LED wire
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
>
> That, I am not sure about but it could be 12v.

Let's start with the wire size. Locate the fuse the circuit is getting power
from. If the fuse is 5A or less, you can use 22 guage wire or larger. At 10A
use 18 guage wire or larger; for a 20A fuse use 16 guage wire. The fuse
exists to protect the wire, and if the wire is melting you already have a
problem.

The LED bar itself should be drawing well under 5 amps. The overheating wire
is a good indication the wiring between the melted wire and the light is
bad; shorted or backward, that sort of thing.

Both situations need to be corrected before you drive safely and happily.
Definitely get the wire size corrected, or you could have a car fire. No
fun.

Mike
Guest - 13 Jan 2007 03:41 GMT
Signature

This post is Sponsored by:  www.overheadsoft.com

http://www.linkreferral.com/cgi-bin/linkreferal/adwel.cgi?oldrefid=20013

>>
>>>>  What type of wire do you suggest using for wiring up the LED light on
[quoted text clipped - 24 lines]
>
> Mike

Thanks, that makes thing a lot clearer.  When the fuse blew, I replaced it
with a yellow 20A fuse.  This also controlled the horn and left the car in
park.  What you write makes sense since the Honda wire is a lot thicker.
Now, I went to Radio Shack looking for wire, is there another place to look
at?  Will any wire, 16 gauge do the job or does it have to be auto wire or
something specifically marked?
jim beam - 13 Jan 2007 04:09 GMT
> Thanks, that makes thing a lot clearer.  When the fuse blew, I replaced it
> with a yellow 20A fuse.  This also controlled the horn and left the car in
> park.  What you write makes sense since the Honda wire is a lot thicker.
> Now, I went to Radio Shack looking for wire, is there another place to look
> at?  Will any wire, 16 gauge do the job or does it have to be auto wire or
> something specifically marked?

dude, it's not the freakin' wire, it's the freakin' unit.  led's draw
/very/ little current.  skinny wire works just fine /if/ the led's are
fine.  go fix the unit and suddenly all your wiring problems will disappear.
Tegger - 13 Jan 2007 04:16 GMT
>> Thanks, that makes thing a lot clearer.  When the fuse blew, I
>> replaced it with a yellow 20A fuse.  This also controlled the horn
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
> fine.  go fix the unit and suddenly all your wiring problems will
> disappear.

Why does this "Guest" guy preface his posts with the "-- "  signature code?

Doesn't he realize what this does when you reply using many common
newsreaders?

Signature

Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

jim beam - 13 Jan 2007 04:21 GMT
>>> Thanks, that makes thing a lot clearer.  When the fuse blew, I
>>> replaced it with a yellow 20A fuse.  This also controlled the horn
[quoted text clipped - 12 lines]
> Doesn't he realize what this does when you reply using many common
> newsreaders?

i don't think it's him, i think it's his "sponsor".  if he even knows or
cares.
Guest - 14 Jan 2007 17:59 GMT
Signature

This post is Sponsored by:  www.overheadsoft.com

http://www.linkreferral.com/cgi-bin/linkreferal/adwel.cgi?oldrefid=20013

>>
>> Thanks, that makes thing a lot clearer.  When the fuse blew, I replaced
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
> fine.  go fix the unit and suddenly all your wiring problems will
> disappear.

Oh, so how do I go about that?  Do I need to get a new LED?
jim beam - 14 Jan 2007 18:18 GMT
>> > Guest wrote:
>>> >>
[quoted text clipped - 11 lines]
>
> Oh, so how do I go about that?  Do I need to get a new LED?

unless there's a simple "gotcha" like a shorted connection, yes.
Michael Pardee - 15 Jan 2007 05:10 GMT
> http://www.linkreferral.com/cgi-bin/linkreferal/adwel.cgi?oldrefid=20013
>>
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
>
> Oh, so how do I go about that?  Do I need to get a new LED?

My guess is that the wire itself is shorted to ground, most likely where it
can be pinched or goes through a small hole. I'm not familiar with the
latest in LEDs, but for the most part the active device needs resistance in
series to limit current. That would probably prevent the LED from appearing
as a short on the supply.

Mike
Michael Pardee - 13 Jan 2007 11:09 GMT
>>>>>  What type of wire do you suggest using for wiring up the LED light on
>>>>> the spoiler?  I need to solder a new wire on since the "OEM" LED wire
[quoted text clipped - 30 lines]
> look at?  Will any wire, 16 gauge do the job or does it have to be auto
> wire or something specifically marked?

Back up one step. The fuse has to be changed back to what it was originally
because there was already wiring on the circuit. The fuse has to protect
that wire also. For example, if the original fuse was a 10A the existing
wiring would be sized for 10 amps... but with the overrated fuse in there it
could be subjected to twice that much current in the event of a fault. Twice
the current also means twice the voltage drop across the wire, so the wire
will get four times as hot before the fuse blows. Don't shrug this off;
notice the recent thread about the 2002 Civic destroyed by an electrical
fire.

Ordinary stranded, PVC jacketed wire is fine. Radio Shack probably carries
it as will many car parts stores. The guage should be at least as heavy as
the original fuse size dictates (from my earlier post).

As the others say, there is still something wrong with the LED if it blows
the original size fuse. They don't draw much current.

Mike
Guest - 14 Jan 2007 18:02 GMT
Signature

This post is Sponsored by:  www.overheadsoft.com

http://www.linkreferral.com/cgi-bin/linkreferal/adwel.cgi?oldrefid=20013

>>
>>>>>>  What type of wire do you suggest using for wiring up the LED light
[quoted text clipped - 50 lines]
>
> Mike

So I guess I might just buy a new one.  The guy I bought it from on Ebay has
been kicked off.  He offered a lifetime warranty, but you need a return
authorization number first, but it is impossible to contact him via email or
phone.  They are Exotic Truck and Auto Gear.  Damn them!  I should have
bought Honda OEM like I started to...
Michael Pardee - 15 Jan 2007 05:11 GMT
> So I guess I might just buy a new one.  The guy I bought it from on Ebay
> has been kicked off.  He offered a lifetime warranty, but you need a
> return authorization number first, but it is impossible to contact him via
> email or phone.  They are Exotic Truck and Auto Gear.  Damn them!  I
> should have bought Honda OEM like I started to...

Before giving up, inspect every place the wire goes through tight spots,
either in metal or with the ground wire along with it. Pinched wires are
common sources of shorts.

Mike
Guest - 16 Jan 2007 01:28 GMT
Signature

This post is Sponsored by:  www.overheadsoft.com

http://www.linkreferral.com/cgi-bin/linkreferal/adwel.cgi?oldrefid=20013

>>
>> So I guess I might just buy a new one.  The guy I bought it from on Ebay
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
>
> Mike

Oh?  I did do the plastic tie things all over.  Maybe I put them on too
tightly?  The rubber grommet that the wire goes through was not exactly
clear.  I assumed that since it was rubber, it should no harm.
Michael Pardee - 16 Jan 2007 01:51 GMT
>>> So I guess I might just buy a new one.  The guy I bought it from on Ebay
>>> has been kicked off.  He offered a lifetime warranty, but you need a
[quoted text clipped - 11 lines]
> tightly?  The rubber grommet that the wire goes through was not exactly
> clear.  I assumed that since it was rubber, it should no harm.

If the wire is soft, the ties really could be too tight. Carefully cut them
and check it out again. The grommet should be okay.

Mike
Joe LaVigne - 12 Jan 2007 19:20 GMT
>> how much current is it conducting?

> That, I am not sure about but it could be 12v.

Your response is all the reason to believe that you should not be doing
this work yourself...
jim beam - 13 Jan 2007 01:27 GMT
> Guest wrote:
>>> >>  What type of wire do you suggest using for wiring up the LED light on
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
>
> That, I am not sure about but it could be 12v.

ok, if the wire melted, there's something wrong with the light unit.
total current should be under 1 amp.  well under.  don't try re-wiring
it until you sort it out - probably replace it.  as pointed out by mike,
failure to fix could lead to a car fire.

volts are different to amps.
Unquestionably Confused - 13 Jan 2007 01:56 GMT
>>>> >>  What type of wire do you suggest using for wiring up the LED
>>>> light on >> the spoiler?  I need to solder a new wire on since the
[quoted text clipped - 13 lines]
> it until you sort it out - probably replace it.  as pointed out by mike,
> failure to fix could lead to a car fire.

Here, I believe, is the problem (as I mentioned in my first response).

As written by Guest on 1/09/2007

"I installed a spoiler on my car and when I first installed it, the
light did not come one and I later found out that I put the wires on in
reverse and blew a fuse.  Some of the wiring even melted.  I corrected
the problem and it was working correctly.  Then yesterday, I bought a
splitter for the cigarette light plug so that I can plug in a radar
detector and a cell hone at the same time.  As I was backing out of the
lot, I noticed that the spoiler light was not on.  I had just plugged
the splitter in the socket before I started the car up.  I checked and
the wires were melted again and were still very warm to the touch.  This
time, the fuse was not blown. "

Methinks that Guest and other items, like water, should be kept away
from electrical devices.
Guest - 13 Jan 2007 03:43 GMT
Signature

This post is Sponsored by:  www.overheadsoft.com

http://www.linkreferral.com/cgi-bin/linkreferal/adwel.cgi?oldrefid=20013

>>>>> >>  What type of wire do you suggest using for wiring up the LED
>>>>> light on >> the spoiler?  I need to solder a new wire on since the
[quoted text clipped - 31 lines]
> Methinks that Guest and other items, like water, should be kept away from
> electrical devices.

f.ck you.  I cam for advice, not smart a.s comments.  Michael Pardee gave
advice.
motsco_ - 12 Jan 2007 19:55 GMT
> What type of wire do you suggest using for wiring up the LED light on
> the spoiler?  I need to solder a new wire on since the "OEM" LED wire
> was so thin that it would melt.  Can I use copper speaker wire?

----------------------------------

LED's are light-emitting DIODES, and if you've ever run juice through a
diode backwards, they may be shorted, which will keep on blowing up the
wiring, no matter if its thin or heavier.

Remove the + and ground connections from your car and try powering the
diodes directly from another 12 V source, like a different battery. Put
a fuse in the line (as you suggested) or just a tail light bulb (way
better), since the LED's are supposed to take way less current than a
light bulb and if the light comes on bright, you know the diodes are
indeed shorted to death.

Don't bother trying a battery charger as your power source. . many don't
put out any power unless they are connected to a half-ways alive battery.

'Curly'
 
Sign In
Join
My Latest Posts
My Monitored Threads
My Blog
My Photo Gallery
My Profile
My Homepage

Start New Thread
Enable EMail Alerts
Rate this Thread



©2009 Advenet LLC   Privacy Policy - Terms of Use
This website includes both content owned or controlled by Advenet as well as content owned or controlled by third parties.