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Car Forum / Honda Cars / April 200791 honda accord rear tail lights out
My headlights, brake lights and turn signals work but none of the back running lights work. I had no idea until I was pulled over at night by a cop. He only noticed me from several blocks away because I had stopped at a stop sign. Checked all the fuses inside and under hood- they’re good. There’s a relay in the box under the hood called the lighting relay. If that’s bad would it cause only the running lights to not work? That’s the only one for lighting according to the lid diagram. Also checked bulb sockets for bad pig tail. Times almost up on my fix it ticket.  SignaturePosted at author's request, using http://www.AutoBoardz.com interface Articles individually verified to usenet standards. Visit URL to contact author/report abuse Thread archive: http://www.AutoBoardz.com/91-rear-tail-lights-ftopict209572.html teri <none@000.com> wrote in news:992093_ 4773497ced2b33aabf03abb16fbe4e0a@autoboardz.com: > My headlights, brake lights and turn signals work but none of the back > running lights work. I had no idea until I was pulled over at night [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > sockets for bad pig tail. > Times almost up on my fix it ticket. I suspect your combination switch (headlight switch) behind the steering wheel. Firstly, do the taillights work when you turn the headlight switch to PARKING LIGHTS only? If so, the switch is faulty. If they don't work in either position, backprobe the feed wire (the non- black one) at the bulbs with the headlight switch turned to ON. If there is no voltage, then you need to work your way upstream. I don't have a wiring diagram for your Accord, so I can't tell you which fuse controls that circuit. But it should say on the fuse box lid. If the fuse is genuinely OK, you need to start multimetering the wires at the combination switch connector. You probably have four wires (not counting the fat white one) at the switch connector. With the headlight switch turned to ON, all four colored wires shuld have voltage. One will have voltage only when you pull back on the switch to actvate the high beam flash-to-pass. If one wire has no voltage at any time, then the switch is bad at that contact. Try jumpering the dead wire to the white wire. Do the taillights come on now? Then it's definitely the switch. There are other circuits activated by the combination switch. check all the other lights in and on the car carefully. Any dash lights out? Glove box light? Front side marker lights? SignatureTegger The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ Tegger, Thanks for the fast reply! I didn’t even think about the switch. They don’t come on in the either position. My son and I have checked every fuse in both boxs they all look good - but for a few bucks I might as well change them all out. And yes, now the dash lights are out also. We’ll be getting out the multimeter and checking wiring. Thanks again for the info I’ll post with results. Ter > teri <none@000.com> wrote in news:992093_ > 4773497ced2b33aabf03abb16fbe4e0a@autoboardz.com: [quoted text clipped - 58 lines] > Glove box > light? Front side marker lights? SignaturePosted at author's request, using http://www.AutoBoardz.com interface Articles individually verified to usenet standards. Visit URL to contact author/report abuse Thread archive: http://www.AutoBoardz.com/91-rear-tail-lights-ftopict209572.html > Tegger, > Thanks for the fast reply! I didnt even think about the switch. [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > > Teri I had a similar problem with my '88 Civic, the headlights worked but none of the running lights worked. It turned out to be the head light switch in the steering column. Instead of replacing it, I took it apart and polished the contacts with some 400 grit wet/dry sand paper and lubed it with some silicone grease. It's been working fine ever since and it's been about 6 years. Eric >> Tegger, >> Thanks for the fast reply! I didn’t even think about the switch. [quoted text clipped - 15 lines] > > Eric All sandpaper leaves microscopic bits of silica embedded in the contacts, so it is verboten to use sandpaper, as the grains are insulators, and abrasive. We use a "point file" of metal, once very easy to find, for filing the points in the distributor, which is like a metal fingernail file, small, and fine grooves, for "polishing' the surfaces. It leaves no residue. > We use a "point file" of metal, once very easy to find, for filing the > points in the distributor, which is like a metal fingernail file, small, > and fine grooves, for "polishing' the surfaces. It leaves no residue. Found in buggy-whip sections of stores everywhere ;-) I've had good results with Scotchbrite, that stuff that looks like the scrubby side of kitchen sponges. Many hardware stores carry it in the paint or sandpaper sections. For relay and switch contacts, a burnishing tool (found at electronics supply stores) is best as it does not remove the precious metal plating... but that is a whole different story. Mike >> We use a "point file" of metal, once very easy to find, for filing the >> points in the distributor, which is like a metal fingernail file, small, [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > > Mike hehe, I have my collection of point files in tool boxes, scattered over two vehicles, and the shed, and the garage... My burnishing tool for relays (issued to me in the Air Force) is a bit fragile. >>> We use a "point file" of metal, once very easy to find, for filing the >>> points in the distributor, which is like a metal fingernail file, [quoted text clipped - 14 lines] > two vehicles, and the shed, and the garage... My burnishing tool for > relays (issued to me in the Air Force) is a bit fragile. <Steps in, Hijacking thread> OK, so what version are you running, and are you using Pan for a reader? I have SuSE 10.0 and 10.2 (10.2 with 3D Accel. and Beryl/Compiz). On a USB HDD I have Ubuntu 7.04. Gave up on 6.10 and loaded (UGH) XP instead on another fixed HDD. "Hachiroku wrote: > <Steps in, Hijacking thread> > > OK, so what version are you running, and are you using Pan for a reader? If you view all headers you would find... User-Agent: Thunderbird 1.5.0.7 (X11/20060920) >>> Tegger, >>> Thanks for the fast reply! I didn�t even think about the switch. [quoted text clipped - 21 lines] > contacts, so it is verboten to use sandpaper, as the grains are > insulators, and abrasive. that's right. scotchbrite is even worse. > We use a "point file" of metal, once very easy to find, for filing the > points in the distributor, which is like a metal fingernail file, small, > and fine grooves, for "polishing' the surfaces. It leaves no residue. >> All sandpaper leaves microscopic bits of silica embedded in the contacts, >> so it is verboten to use sandpaper, as the grains are insulators, and >> abrasive. > > that's right. scotchbrite is even worse. What do you use when you have a "straight-in" approach only and need to remove oxide? >>> All sandpaper leaves microscopic bits of silica embedded in the contacts, >>> so it is verboten to use sandpaper, as the grains are insulators, and [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > What do you use when you have a "straight-in" approach only and need to > remove oxide? swiss file. or even just scrape with a screwdriver. to be honest, i've used abrasives in "quick fix" situations, especially where i intend to replace down the road, but the info on abrasives is correct - it's not good practice. >>>> All sandpaper leaves microscopic bits of silica embedded in the >>>> contacts, so it is verboten to use sandpaper, as the grains are [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > where i intend to replace down the road, but the info on abrasives is > correct - it's not good practice. What's a swiss file? >>>>> All sandpaper leaves microscopic bits of silica embedded in the >>>>> contacts, so it is verboten to use sandpaper, as the grains are [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > > What's a swiss file? one of those little rat-tailed things. http://bandsawblade.com/SimondsFiles/swisspattern.htm |
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