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Car Forum / Honda Cars / June 2007

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How Hard is DIY Valve Adjustment?

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mjc13<REMOVETHIS> - 27 Jun 2007 10:07 GMT
Once again, this is a 1995 Civic EX 1.6L 125HP sedan. Don't have the
serial number at hand. I've done valve lash adjustments on old Volvo
pushrod engines, but nothing like this. It sounds like the adjustment
mechanism is surprisingly similar, though: set screw and locknut. So,
any tricks? Is this something best left to a seasoned mechanic? I have
the Chilton manual.
motsco_ - 27 Jun 2007 15:35 GMT
>    Once again, this is a 1995 Civic EX 1.6L 125HP sedan. Don't have the
> serial number at hand. I've done valve lash adjustments on old Volvo
> pushrod engines, but nothing like this. It sounds like the adjustment
> mechanism is surprisingly similar, though: set screw and locknut. So,
> any tricks? Is this something best left to a seasoned mechanic? I have
> the Chilton manual.

---------------------------------------

For better control / leverage, it's nice if you have a long-handle
combination wrench, like the 'pro' series one I picked up. It's even
nicer if you have the tool that holds the locknut and has a screwdriver
built it. GOOGLE 'powerbuilt 648828' or similar, depending on the size
of the '95's locknut. I have one but haven't used it yet.

'Curly'
mjc13<REMOVETHIS> - 27 Jun 2007 23:26 GMT
>>    Once again, this is a 1995 Civic EX 1.6L 125HP sedan. Don't have
>> the serial number at hand. I've done valve lash adjustments on old
[quoted text clipped - 12 lines]
>
> 'Curly'

   I was going to use a torque wrench. That isn't critical?
Tegger - 28 Jun 2007 02:02 GMT
>>>    Once again, this is a 1995 Civic EX 1.6L 125HP sedan. Don't have
>>> the serial number at hand. I've done valve lash adjustments on old
[quoted text clipped - 15 lines]
>
>     I was going to use a torque wrench. That isn't critical?

It *most certainly* is.

I do my valves every year. I use no special tools, just a flat-blade
screwdriver, a 12mm wrench and a feeler gauge set.

The critical thing to do is to make certain the cam lobes you check are
pointing stright up to the sky. This ensures their ramps are nowhere
near the rocker mechanism, so cannot affect readings.

Turn engine COUNTER-clockwise with your ratchet. If you have need to go
the other way, do that only for fine-tuning of cam position. Never turn
clockwise more than a degree or two.

Signature

Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

mjc13<REMOVETHIS> - 28 Jun 2007 04:36 GMT
>>>>   Once again, this is a 1995 Civic EX 1.6L 125HP sedan. Don't have
>>>>the serial number at hand. I've done valve lash adjustments on old
[quoted text clipped - 28 lines]
> the other way, do that only for fine-tuning of cam position. Never turn
> clockwise more than a degree or two.

   I assume you mean a torque wrench with 12mm socket. ;-) I was hoping
to turn the engine by rolling the car in gear. Any problem with that
approach? I don't remember if the manual gives the bolt size - is 12mm
applicable to my '95 EX?
motsco_ - 28 Jun 2007 17:41 GMT
. . . .I was hoping
> to turn the engine by rolling the car in gear. Any problem with that
> approach?

-------------------------------------

Yes, you'll run out of room on your driveway before you get your valves
all adjusted :-)

Once you slip out the spark plugs the engine turns over easily with the
Power Steering nut. (depending on the model)

Engine should be STONE COLD too, at least on the GEn 1 CR-V it's true.

'Curly'
Eric - 29 Jun 2007 02:22 GMT
"mjc13" wrote:

> >>>>   Once again, this is a 1995 Civic EX 1.6L 125HP sedan. Don't have
> >>>>the serial number at hand. I've done valve lash adjustments on old
[quoted text clipped - 33 lines]
> approach? I don't remember if the manual gives the bolt size - is 12mm
> applicable to my '95 EX?

There is no need for a torque wrench.  In addition, you may want to take a
look at one of my prior posts where I discuss the general technique for
adjusting valves.  http://tinyurl.com/2bf5qf

Eric
mjc13<REMOVETHIS> - 29 Jun 2007 05:02 GMT
> "mjc13" wrote:
>
[quoted text clipped - 41 lines]
>
> Eric

   There may not be a need for a torque wrench if you either have done
the job before or instinctively know what 14 lb/ft feels like, but I'd
prefer not to risk those aluminum rocker arms.
jim beam - 29 Jun 2007 06:53 GMT
>> "mjc13" wrote:
>>
[quoted text clipped - 46 lines]
> the job before or instinctively know what 14 lb/ft feels like, but I'd
> prefer not to risk those aluminum rocker arms.

i don't think you should attempt this job at this time.  it requires
experience and some degree of mechanical aptitude.  judging by your
other posts and your reaction to responses, you don't appear to have
either.  in fact, your motivation appears to be more recreational than
anything else.

if you're serious about learning, sign up for evening classes. otherwise
leave alone.  a fouled up valve adjustment can cost you a lot of money.
mjc13<REMOVETHIS> - 29 Jun 2007 10:31 GMT
>>> "mjc13" wrote:
>>>
[quoted text clipped - 58 lines]
> if you're serious about learning, sign up for evening classes. otherwise
> leave alone.  a fouled up valve adjustment can cost you a lot of money.

   I guess that establishes you as a troll. Before I filter you, I'll
again note that I've done valve adjustments - on steel rocker
assemblies, 30 years ago. Caution isn't the same as ineptitude, and
sarcasm isn't the same as wisdom.
Tegger - 29 Jun 2007 20:58 GMT
>> if you're serious about learning, sign up for evening classes.
>> otherwise leave alone.  a fouled up valve adjustment can cost you a
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
> assemblies, 30 years ago. Caution isn't the same as ineptitude, and
> sarcasm isn't the same as wisdom.

Jim is absolutely right, and he's no troll.

But you are neither cautious nor inept; you are just woefully uninformed.

If you do not know the proper procedure for turning the engine over, and do
not know what tools are required to do the job, then you are risking severe
engine damage.

I suggest getting the Helm manual (NOT a Chilton or Haynes), and reading
some basic auto maintenance texts.
( wwww.helminc.com or eBay)

Actually, I'm scheduled to perform my annual valve check on my DOHC Integra
this weekend. Maybe I'll take some pics.

Signature

Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

Tegger - 29 Jun 2007 20:51 GMT
>     I assume you mean a torque wrench with 12mm socket. ;-) I was
>     hoping
> to turn the engine by rolling the car in gear. Any problem with that
> approach? I don't remember if the manual gives the bolt size - is 12mm
> applicable to my '95 EX?

You really, really, need a good shop manual. You clearly have no idea
what's involved.
www.helminc.com

Turn the steering wheel all the way to the left. Now get down and peek
inside the wheel well at the splash shield inboard of the wheel. See the
big round rubber plug? Pop that out and you can use a 19mm socket on a long
extension to turn the engine counterclockwise.

The 12mm wrench is for loosening and tightening the locknuts that hold the
valve adjustment. The screwdriver is for the threaded adjusters.

The torque wrench (and 12mm socket) is for making sure the locknuts are
snugged up properly and will not vibrate loose on you.

Signature

Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

mjc13<REMOVETHIS> - 30 Jun 2007 02:24 GMT
>>    I assume you mean a torque wrench with 12mm socket. ;-) I was
>>    hoping
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
> what's involved.
> www.helminc.com

   Not true. You misunderstood me.

> Turn the steering wheel all the way to the left. Now get down and peek
> inside the wheel well at the splash shield inboard of the wheel. See the
> big round rubber plug? Pop that out and you can use a 19mm socket on a long
> extension to turn the engine counterclockwise.

   Ok, that's how I turn the crankshaft. I was hoping there was another
way to accomplish that, but I can do the above - which the Chilton
manual doesn't mention, at least in this context. I'm not a big fan of
using crank pulley bolts to turn engines, that's all.

> The 12mm wrench is for loosening and tightening the locknuts that hold the
> valve adjustment. The screwdriver is for the threaded adjusters.

   I understand that perfectly well - the old Volvo motors had a very
similar design at the rocker arms. I also know how to use the feeler guage!

> The torque wrench (and 12mm socket) is for making sure the locknuts are
> snugged up properly and will not vibrate loose on you.

   And I understand that as well. I was trying to confirm that 12mm was
the correct size for this particular engine. Hopefully it is, or if it
isn't I'll have the correct size.

   No offense, but the Volvo and Camry techs seem to be nicer.  ;-)
Elle - 29 Jun 2007 21:48 GMT
The factory service manual is free online for this Honda.
See http://www.honda.co.uk/car/owner/workshop.html

Based on what you say below, I think you can do this. Just
ask questions here when something seems amiss. Do not
assume.

>    Once again, this is a 1995 Civic EX 1.6L 125HP sedan.
> Don't have the serial number at hand. I've done valve lash
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
> any tricks? Is this something best left to a seasoned
> mechanic? I have the Chilton manual.
mjc13<REMOVETHIS> - 30 Jun 2007 02:26 GMT
> The factory service manual is free online for this Honda.
> See http://www.honda.co.uk/car/owner/workshop.html
>
> Based on what you say below, I think you can do this. Just
> ask questions here when something seems amiss. Do not
> assume.

   I did look at that manual - thanks again for the link. As for asking
questions... not in this newsgroup, I think. You're the only one who
seems to be reading what I'm actually writing.

>>   Once again, this is a 1995 Civic EX 1.6L 125HP sedan.
>>Don't have the serial number at hand. I've done valve lash
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
>>any tricks? Is this something best left to a seasoned
>>mechanic? I have the Chilton manual.

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