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Your diagrams are at www.slhondaparts.com and PB Blaster seems to be
good stuff for pre-soaking sticky nuts. Beware it might dissolve some
HOSES. As for cleaning the throttle body you can do a basic job by
reaching in and cleaning the throttle plate and inside with a dampened
cloth, after removing the rubber intake tube.

'Curly'

Like Curly wrote, PB Blaster is the best stuff around for
freeing rusty bolts and screws. It's available for a few
dollars a can at Autozone, Wal-Mart, etc. Tapping on the
bolt or screw can help shake some rust off, too. Soak with
the PB Blaster, tap, soak again, try to unfasten.

Post specific instances here, and people can give more
advice, depending on the scenario. And there are a lot of
them!

Use a set of angled needle-nose pliers and turn the shaft of the screw.
Failing that, use a Dremel to cut the screw in half. Replace the
assembly with a regular worm-type hose clamp, which, oddly enough, fits
perfectly.

A new correct clamp assembly is about $10 at the dealer.

You can also lever the air hose off the throttle body, but be careful
not to damage it or the aluminum casting.

Six-point sockets and air tools.

GM Penatrant/Lubricant. Get it at a GM parts counter (yes, GM *DOES*
actually make something worthwhile!  ;)

Runs $8~12 depending how much of a discount the parts guy gives you...

Spray anything you want to work on a day in advance. Spray everything
else, too.

I had a Toyota Tercel that had the usual rust/corrosion, and sprayed them
with this stuff. Teo days later they looked NEW! Periodic sprays kept them
looking new, and made them easy to remove.

My trick only works with nuts, not bolts or screws :-(

Assuming the nut is accessible enough, clamp a pair of locking pliers
(Vise-Grips or similar) down on the nut. If the nut is not a small one you
will probably have to use as much strength as possible. Spray the threads at
the end of the nut with penetrant and let it set a few minutes. Remove the
pliers and repeat on as many pairs of sides as are accessible.

I've used this over the years with nuts that just wouldn't break loose
otherwise and have had success every time - except when the nuts were
totally rusted, of course. The pressure of the pliers forces the threads to
bottom out and opens up gaps 90 degrees away. The penetrant gets in and has
an opportunity to work where it might otherwise be locked out. Now, if only
there were an equivalent for bolts or that stupid retaining screw....

Mike