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Car Forum / Honda Cars / August 20071988 honda accord
I am having problems with my car. It seems to run good in the mornings untill I almost get to work. When you come to a stop light the car dies unless you keep your foot on the gas. I am thinking that it might be the carburator. I have found a carb. for the car that is new but it came off a 1986 or 87. Will it fit my car??? Also I thought that a vacuum line might be switched around. Could anyone help me out on finding a diagram or pictures of the vacuum line routes that are clear enough to understand. Any help would be greatly apreciated. Thanks Cody >I am having problems with my car. It seems to run good in the > mornings untill I almost get to work. When you come to a stop light [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > Thanks > Cody Replacing the carburetor, especially with one that is not exactly the same, is likely to be the beginning of a journey into darkness. My first thought is for the automatic choke not "pulling off." Remove the intake so you can look into the top of the carburetor when the engine is cold, and you will see a "butterfly" plate right at the top of the carburetor throat - that's the choke plate. It should be only a little open when cold and completely open when warm. If it isn't open when warm you have a good place to start. You can use carburetor cleaner to clean the choke mechanism and to ensure the idle passage isn't getting clogged but otherwise this doesn't sound like carb problems. A visual inspection of the vacuum hoses is not a bad idea. They often crack right at the ends where they connect to the nipples and the top suspects are the ones that go to the intake manifold or the base of the carburetor. You suggest a vacuum line may be in the wrong place. Did this problem start after something had been done to the car? Mike On Aug 8, 9:33 pm, "Michael Pardee" <michaeltn...@cybertrails.com> wrote: > <hansenfami...@msn.com> wrote in message > [quoted text clipped - 30 lines] > > Mike When I bought the car it idled high around 2000rpm. I noticed when you lefted up on the trottle it would idle down so I adjusted the trottle cable. About a month later, it was pretty hot outside and I drove it from school to the house and about 30 minutes later jumped in it to go to the store and it die at the stop sign and has done it ever since. I checked the choke and it seems to be working fine. It was not completely closed when it was cold and when the car warmed up it was all the way open. Any more Ideas. I noticed also today that the throttle cable was pretty sloppy so I adjusted it and I must have adjusted it to much, it reved up and held at 4500rpm. I readjusted it and noticed that when you pulled up on the trottle that it idealed down again.??? It has got me stumped. I was leaning toward the map sensor maybe?? Let me know what you think. Cody > On Aug 8, 9:33 pm, "Michael Pardee" <michaeltn...@cybertrails.com> > wrote: [quoted text clipped - 58 lines] > > Cody That problem with the throttle is pretty specific to the throttle hanging up, all right. You can try lubricating the throttle cable with graphite. I like Lock-Ease (sp?), which is graphite in a kerosene type carrier. FWIW, I haven't had a lot of success lubricating throttle cables. Maybe they have worn inside to the extent that lubrication isn't enough. You may have to replace it. We all love working on various pedals <8^O That may be the only underlying problem. If the cable has been hanging up for a long time, and I bet it has, the previous owner may have twiddled with the idle setting to compensate and ended with the idle stop set for too low a decent idle. A quick twist of the old screwdriver once the cable is freed up should fix that. You can do that part now after lifting on the throttle to free up the cable. Mike > On Aug 8, 9:33 pm, "Michael Pardee" <michaeltn...@cybertrails.com> > wrote: [quoted text clipped - 44 lines] > down again.??? It has got me stumped. I was leaning toward the map > sensor maybe?? Let me know what you think. First of all, the carbed versions don't have a MAP sensor (that I've ever seen, anyway... they also typically don't have O2 sensors, although there are exceptions). I'd check for the cable sticking, make sure it's not getting frayed anywhere, for that issue. As for the stalling, if you've confirmed the choke is okay, then I'd suspect a vacuum leak. You can often just listen for it (a sucking or whistling sound), but if the leak is in a vacuum diaphragm (as happened with my car once) it may be inaudible. One way to test for this is to *gently* pinch off the vacuum lines one at a time (ie. pinch one, if that has no effect, release it, and go on to the next), starting where each one connects to the carb body or intake manifold, and see if the idle smooths out. If you find one that affects it, then you can follow it outward, and repeat the pinching after any branch points, until you find the segment that's leaking. > I am having problems with my car. It seems to run good in the > mornings untill I almost get to work. When you come to a stop light [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > that are clear enough to understand. Any help would be greatly > apreciated. In addition to Mike's comments about swapping the carb (there are at least two models commonly used in the 3rd-gen Accords), I'd point out that it is NOT an easy task - in addition to the multitude of vacuum hoses involved, there are a lot of linkages and ancillary components (vacuum diaphragms, the choke heater, etc.) that all have to come off in the right order or you'll be fighting it forever... nevermind putting them back on again afterward. I'd say the stuck-choke diagnosis is a good possibility based on it running fine while cold... it could also be a vacuum leak in a hose or diaphragm that's only active once warmed up. A vacuum leak, however, is much more common, as hoses dry out and crack over the years (and remember this car is almost 20 years old!) A vacuum leak means too much air is getting pulled into the intake manifold, which causes the engine to run lean... the choke, on the other hand, closes off the carb's air intake and boosts the throttle while the engine is cold, which of course will counteract the vacuum leak to some degree. When you rev it up after it's warm, that too feeds more gas in, so counteracting the vacuum leak to a degree. I have JPGs of vacuum diagrams for various 3gee Accords here... you'll have to determine which is relevant to your car: http://www.moltenimage.com/freebies/g3accord/fuel_and_emission_controls_carb/ > hansenfami...@msn.com wrote: > > I am having problems with my car. It seems to run good in the [quoted text clipped - 30 lines] > I have JPGs of vacuum diagrams for various 3gee Accords here... you'll > have to determine which is relevant to your car:http://www.moltenimage.com/freebies/g3accord/fuel_and_emission_contro... Matt Thanks for the JPGs of the vacuum diagrams. Helped out Looks like all the vacuum lines are were they need to go. I replyed back to Mike with this see what you think. When I bought the car it idled high around 2000rpm. I noticed when you lefted up on the trottle it would idle down so I adjusted the trottle cable. About a month later, it was pretty hot outside and I drove it from school to the house and about 30 minutes later jumped in it to go to the store and it die at the stop sign and has done it ever since. I checked the choke and it seems to be working fine. It was not completely closed when it was cold and when the car warmed up it was all the way open. Any more Ideas. I noticed also today that the throttle cable was pretty sloppy so I adjusted it and I must have adjusted it to much, it reved up and held at 4500rpm. I readjusted it and noticed that when you pulled up on the trottle that it idealed down again.??? It has got me stumped. I was leaning toward the map sensor maybe?? Let me know what you think. Cody |
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