These codes pretty much all indicate a slow response rate. If you have no
exhaust leaks, you should replace both upstream sensors, p/n 39210-3712A
on the firewall side and 39210-3716A on the radiator side. The best way
to reset the codes is by using a code reader (if it has that capability)
or a scan tool. If not, you can probably do it by disconnecting the
battery.
> These codes pretty much all indicate a slow response rate. If you have no
> exhaust leaks, you should replace both upstream sensors, p/n 39210-3712A
> on the firewall side and 39210-3716A on the radiator side. The best way
> to reset the codes is by using a code reader (if it has that capability)
> or a scan tool. If not, you can probably do it by disconnecting the
> battery.
All the code readers I've seen have a reset button. I have the $150 one
from Innova/Equus, and it does indeed read out the Hyundai's #1134 code
(yeah; I've got an oxygen sensor in my future, too). The other brand I
tried also read out the same code. The Innova code reader seems to be on
sale with rebate all the time at Kragen (and affiliated stores), so at
this point, I'd say that the regular price there is really $100.
Now, I'm not about to try out the reset button. It's tempting, but
Hyundai's drive cycles are shrouded in secrecy -- I've got no idea how
many days/weeks/months/years it will take to accumulate the data to
satisfy the monitors (test programs in the car's computer). I need to be
really patient; after the repair, it'll take a certain number of starts
before the computer is satisfied -- in other words, satisfied that all
the test cycles have been completed enough. Resetting the dash light
also resets all the monitors: whoosh! They're all zeroed. And if you've
got a smog test due at DMV within three days, well...
Richard
hyundaitech - 06 Aug 2005 17:10 GMT
If you've got a code stored, that won't pass the OBD test either, so you've
got to choose wisely.
jhilt - 07 Aug 2005 14:53 GMT
Well, I purchased the sensors & cut-away socket.
I installed them yesterday. Not as bad of a job as I was expecting. Only
took me 40min. Most of the time was removing stuff to get good access.
Don't really have the cash to invest in a code reader so I opted for the
"disconnect the battery" method. This all started because I failed the
states emisions test. I have 60 days from the initial test to get repair
done. So I'll drive the car a couple weeks to make sure the computer is
reset and everything is ok. Oh in case your wondering...the lights out.
This web site(and the people involved)is a great tool I'm sure I'll be in
need of assistence again some time down the road.
Thanks for all the help.