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Car Forum / Hyundai Cars / September 2006

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Tires for Elantra

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nothermark - 22 Sep 2006 23:09 GMT
I'm looking at replacing the tires on my 2006 Elantra.  I'm a high
milage out in all weather person who has not been following tire tech
lately so I thought I would post a note here.  Anyone have anything to
reccomend?
Harry Balzak - 23 Sep 2006 03:02 GMT
I put a set of Yokohama AVID touring tires on my '02 Saturn SL2 (compact
sedan), and they now have over 65,000 miles and still look good.  I think I
paid about $65.00 per tire (+ tax, and the usual other BS), but still well
worth it.  They ride great, are quiet, handle well, and I will buy another
set when it's time.  I will put them on my '05 Elantra when the time comes
for that one too.

> I'm looking at replacing the tires on my 2006 Elantra.  I'm a high
> milage out in all weather person who has not been following tire tech
> lately so I thought I would post a note here.  Anyone have anything to
> reccomend?
Rev. Tom Wenndt - 24 Sep 2006 03:18 GMT
Emjoyed all the posts on this, even though I also just bought a new set of
Elantra tires.

Please remember that the Elantra takes 'H-rated' tires.  The Yokohama AVID
Touring is only a 'T' a lower-rated tire, which would be acceptable on that
Saturn, but not on the Elantra.

An EXCELLENT Yokohama tire that does work, however, is the Yokohama AVID
H4s.  Good in every sense of the word.  Only problem is a very spotty dealer
network, though you can get it from Tire Rack.

But I agree with the concensus on the Sumitomo HTR H4 (I didn't think this
forum agreed on anything).  That is what I also just put on my '02 Elantra.
Bought them from Sears during a recent buy 3 get 1 free sale.

One thing I did notice was that, on the door placard, it recommends running
the tires on the Elantra (front and rear) at 30 psi.  At that pressure, the
tires were wonderfully smooth and soft.  But the handling and braking were
underwhelming.

But since 'H' tires need to be inflated by 5 additional pounds to get the
true 'H' benefit, I decided to pump these to 35 p.s.i. and see what
happened.  Indeed, the ride was a tad firmer.  But the handling and braking
were transformationally better, and the tire was just as quiet.

So I would highly recommend running these at 35 p.s.i.  It is a VERY good
tire, and looks to be an excellent value.

One more thing.  Despite the fact that someone said they put these tires on
two years ago, the HTR H4 has only been on the market about 6 months (check
the website).

There has been (and still is) a Sumitomo HTR T4, but that tire, especially
in comparison to the H4, is rather underwhelming, and is yet another
'T'-rated tire that probably should not be put on cars where H tires are
recommended.

Hope all this helps.

Tom Wenndt

>I put a set of Yokohama AVID touring tires on my '02 Saturn SL2 (compact
>sedan), and they now have over 65,000 miles and still look good.  I think I
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
>> lately so I thought I would post a note here.  Anyone have anything to
>> reccomend?
VicTek - 24 Sep 2006 16:05 GMT
> Please remember that the Elantra takes 'H-rated' tires.  The Yokohama AVID
> Touring is only a 'T' a lower-rated tire, which would be acceptable on
> that Saturn, but not on the Elantra.

I'd be interested to hear more about the "T" Vs "H" rating.  I understand
that an "H" rating = 130mph and a "T" rating = 118mph.  Assuming that you
don't want to drive the Elantra faster than 118mph (and good luck if you
do!<g>) why would putting a "T" rated tire on it be unacceptable?
Eric G. - 24 Sep 2006 16:36 GMT
>> Please remember that the Elantra takes 'H-rated' tires.  The Yokohama
>> AVID Touring is only a 'T' a lower-rated tire, which would be
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
> (and good luck if you do!<g>) why would putting a "T" rated tire on it
> be unacceptable?

I'd also be interested in this, as well as the source for the Rev.'s claim
that an H-rated tire should have 5 more PSI of air in it to be effective.

Eric
nothermark - 25 Sep 2006 00:20 GMT
>>> Please remember that the Elantra takes 'H-rated' tires.  The Yokohama
>>> AVID Touring is only a 'T' a lower-rated tire, which would be
[quoted text clipped - 11 lines]
>Eric
>  

try http://www.type2.com/library/tires/tirefaq.htm  - look at the
pressure question
Eric G. - 25 Sep 2006 02:28 GMT
>>>> Please remember that the Elantra takes 'H-rated' tires.  The
>>>> Yokohama AVID Touring is only a 'T' a lower-rated tire, which would
[quoted text clipped - 15 lines]
> try http://www.type2.com/library/tires/tirefaq.htm  - look at the
> pressure question

Done.  Same question remains.  Nowhere does it say anything about H-rated
tires needing 5 PSI more to be effective.
nothermark - 25 Sep 2006 00:20 GMT
>>> Please remember that the Elantra takes 'H-rated' tires.  The Yokohama
>>> AVID Touring is only a 'T' a lower-rated tire, which would be
[quoted text clipped - 11 lines]
>Eric
>  

I haven't looked up the rating but I have been under the impression
that manufacturer's are ore focused on a soft ride so tend t reccomend
low pressures.
Brian Nystrom - 25 Sep 2006 14:52 GMT
> I haven't looked up the rating but I have been under the impression
> that manufacturer's are ore focused on a soft ride so tend t reccomend
> low pressures.  

Soft ride and understeer, as it's considered "safer" in front-drive cars.
Rev. Tom Wenndt - 25 Sep 2006 03:26 GMT
I will apologize in advance for the length of this, and at some point, I
would need a representative of the tire or rubber industry to better and
fully explain why it is imperative that one only replace tires with an equal
or higher speed rating then what is given initially.

But I have just finished scanning 23 different articles from tire
manufacturers and wholesalers, automobile manufacturers and more.  Every one
of them said the same thing.  And very often the reminder is made with
explanation points and other things.  They are dead serious about this.

I am quite certain this really has nothing to do with speed.  Most likely,
it has to do with heat performance and resistance.  But the speed rating is
an already accepted formula out there (taken from Europe) that they can use
to accomplish the same thing.

Almost every tire made, as long as it is not damaged or otherwise, is
manufactured to withstand speeds up to 100 mph, fully loaded, and properly
inflated.

While the speed ratings do add additional miles per hour (if you do what
they recommend), what this really means is an additional buffer against heat
over the speed you are actually driving.

If you will study the top sidewall numbers (for treadwear, traction and
temperature), almost every tire rated 'H' and above achieves an 'A'
temperature rating.  An 'S' or a 'T' is almost always rated 'B,' with even a
few 'C's out there.  That is not a minor matter.

While underinflation was a key factor in the Firestone tires that failed on
the Ford Explorers several years ago, the fact also was that these
Wilderness tires had a 'C' temperature rating (since upgraded to 'B').  That
plus the low inflation recommendation (only 26 pounds), and the fact that
since many people neglected to check air pressure, the tires were running on
far less air then that, you had a serious problem.

While this could partially be fixed with higher inflation recommendations,
car and tire manufacturers know that many Americans love their soft, cushy
rides (think of the big, boatish Buicks).  And with the much greater focus
on overall safety, including features such as traction and stability
control, cars certainly needed to also handle better without feeling like
your tires are made of concrete.

The only solution was to put tires on cars with higher speed ratings.  An
'H' and maybe even a 'V' tire, inflated to maybe 30 pounds can still be a
fairly soft riding tire.  But it will handle and brake much better, and
handle whatever the car can throw at it better then more standard tires can.

As for the question about the extra inflation, see this link from "Tire
Rack."  You can also get this information from the PR packet on ANY tire you
buy that has any kind of speed rating (or check the company's website for
the info for that particular tire).

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/general/airpress_loadadj_Hspeed.jsp

Their point seems to be that if you want that extra "margin" afforded by an
'H' tire, you have to inflate extra pounds, one pound per every six mph, up
to five pounds.  I did it with mine because my car definitely handles better
at 35 pounds rather than the recommended 30 pounds.

The fact that the tires are now safe to 130 mph means nothing.  The fact
that there is probably now also a greater margin against heat stress means a
lot.

My point is this:  I trust that the car and tire manufacturers know what
they are doing.

Hope this helps, folks!

Rev. Thomas Wenndt

> Emjoyed all the posts on this, even though I also just bought a new set of
> Elantra tires.
[quoted text clipped - 48 lines]
>>> lately so I thought I would post a note here.  Anyone have anything to
>>> reccomend?
Eric G. - 25 Sep 2006 16:07 GMT
> As for the question about the extra inflation, see this link from
> "Tire Rack."  You can also get this information from the PR packet on
[quoted text clipped - 20 lines]
>
> Rev. Thomas Wenndt

Tom, I read the link you posted here.  I don't think you are reading it
right.  The extra margin of safety comes when you are at speeds in
excess of 100 MPH.  I don't see a thing there that says handling or
safety improve at speeds lower than that.  And if you are regularly
exceeding 100 MPH on US roads, I think you have bigger problems than
your tire inflation.

I concede that I like to run my tires at 32-35 PSI irregardless of what
the OEM recommendation is because I like the sharper turn-in response,
but I think driving at or near posted speed limits in the US, the higher
pressure does abolutely nothing for "limit" handling and has only
negligible effects on heat build-up and wear.

The only effect I have even seen on the road is better rain traction
from lowering the pressure (I've gone as low as 28 PSI), and better snow
traction at a higher pressure (I go up to sidewall maximum in deep
snow).

The track is an entirely different story, and so is the Autobahn.

Eric
Brian Nystrom - 25 Sep 2006 21:44 GMT
>  > As for the question about the extra inflation, see this link from
>> "Tire Rack."  You can also get this information from the PR packet on
[quoted text clipped - 28 lines]
> exceeding 100 MPH on US roads, I think you have bigger problems than
> your tire inflation.

The higher-speed-rated tires typically have stiffer treads and sidewalls
to resist deformation due to centrifugal force at higher speeds, so
you'll notice sharper turn-in performance and a somewhat harsher ride.
Whether this translates into increased safety at anything other than max
speed depends on the way you drive. ;-)
nothermark - 26 Sep 2006 01:20 GMT
>>  > As for the question about the extra inflation, see this link from
>>> "Tire Rack."  You can also get this information from the PR packet on
[quoted text clipped - 34 lines]
>Whether this translates into increased safety at anything other than max
>speed depends on the way you drive. ;-)

I think folks are missing the obvious.  Inflating a tire to a higher
presure decreases overall flex as the sidewalls are stiffer and the
footprint smaller.  That should decrease the heat generated at any
speed.

;-)
Eric G. - 26 Sep 2006 12:07 GMT
> I think folks are missing the obvious.  Inflating a tire to a higher
> presure decreases overall flex as the sidewalls are stiffer and the
> footprint smaller.  That should decrease the heat generated at any
> speed.
>
> ;-)

I never argued that point, but at speeds under 100 MPH the decrease in heat
generated is so small that it borders on being statistically insignificant.

Eric
Brian Nystrom - 25 Sep 2006 14:45 GMT
> One thing I did notice was that, on the door placard, it recommends running
> the tires on the Elantra (front and rear) at 30 psi.  At that pressure, the
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
> But since 'H' tires need to be inflated by 5 additional pounds to get the
> true 'H' benefit,

Where did you hear that?

> I decided to pump these to 35 p.s.i. and see what
> happened.  Indeed, the ride was a tad firmer.  But the handling and braking
> were transformationally better, and the tire was just as quiet.

Try running them at 36 front/32 rear and the handling will improve even
more. FWD cars should be run with more pressure in the front than the
rear, since the fronts support most of the weight. If you have done so
already, installing the 19.2 mm rear sway bar from an '03+ Tiburon GT
dramatically improves the Elantra's handling, reducing the overwhelming
understeer of the stock suspension.
VicTek - 26 Sep 2006 00:56 GMT
> Try running them at 36 front/32 rear and the handling will improve even
> more. FWD cars should be run with more pressure in the front than the
> rear, since the fronts support most of the weight. If you have done so
> already, installing the 19.2 mm rear sway bar from an '03+ Tiburon GT
> dramatically improves the Elantra's handling, reducing the overwhelming
> understeer of the stock suspension.

Regarding installing the rear sway bar, what does that entail in terms of
labor and cost?  Is it a DIY or must it be done in a garage?  Does it make a
difference when driving sedately, or only during more demanding maneuvers?
WOW, three questions in a row <g>.
Brian Nystrom - 26 Sep 2006 14:46 GMT
>> Try running them at 36 front/32 rear and the handling will improve even
>> more. FWD cars should be run with more pressure in the front than the
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
> difference when driving sedately, or only during more demanding maneuvers?
> WOW, three questions in a row <g>.

It's a pretty simple DIY job, though some people have reported
difficulty in loosening the nuts that hold the original bar. If you car
has steel end links, use them. If it has plastic endlinks, you may want
to replace them with the steel ones from the Tib. There are DIY
instructions on the Elantra Club site.

The difference is quite noticeable whenever you're cornering, regardless
of how aggressively. You can't appreciate how bad the stock rear setup
is until you put on the stiffer sway bar. It really transforms the
handling of the car and makes it feel much better balanced and more
securely planted to the road.
VicTek - 26 Sep 2006 16:01 GMT
> It's a pretty simple DIY job, though some people have reported
> difficulty in loosening the nuts that hold the original bar. If you car
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
> of the car and makes it feel much better balanced and more securely
> planted to the road.

Thanks Brian!
Don Allen - 30 Sep 2006 16:57 GMT
The higher the speed rating, S, T, H, and V, generally softer the
compound, and less long-term life (treadwear) of the tire.  Properly
inflated and maintained, an S or T rating would be acceptable on an
Elantra.  S-rated tires are not as common as they once were - say back
in the late '60s or early '70s - now typically replaced by the T-rated
tires.  My SAAB uses T-rated tires, and it has a much higher top speed
than the Elantra.  Now, if we were discussing a Sonata with the V6, I
would consider only the H-rated tire as a minimum spec. But, it really
comes down to the point are you even going to drive the Sonata in
excess of 120MPH for long periods of time - I typically don't think so
here in the USA.

More important that the speed rating for the Elantra application is the
DOT UTQG ratings of the tires, as to temperature, traction, and
treadware grades - especially temperature.  Buy a S or T speed rated
tire with a "A" temperature grading, and you will be fine for the
Elantra.  High temp is the cause of the majority of tire failures, and
this is normally caused by underinflation and overloading.

Keep your tires inflated to proper pressure levels, and all will be
fine with any of the aforementioned speed ratings.  After all, the
Elantra is not a Porsche, and using HR or VR rated tires is really
overkill.

> > It's a pretty simple DIY job, though some people have reported
> > difficulty in loosening the nuts that hold the original bar. If you car
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
>
> Thanks Brian!
VicTek - 23 Sep 2006 16:20 GMT
> I'm looking at replacing the tires on my 2006 Elantra.  I'm a high
> milage out in all weather person who has not been following tire tech
> lately so I thought I would post a note here.  Anyone have anything to
> reccomend?

I got a set of four Sumitomo HTR H4 tires from Sears.  They have a 60,000
mile warranty and were on sale for about 65$ each (before mounting,
balancing, etc.)  They are much quieter than the original Michelin MX V4
tires which are far more expensive ($141 each).  Here is link to the Sears
page.

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&pid=09550171000&cat
=Tires&subcat=Car&vertical=AUTO&ihtoken=1

Andy S - 23 Sep 2006 16:35 GMT
Post above mine recommends Sumiotomo HTR H4s  I second the opinion.  I had a
set
put on a Focus we had  a couple years ago.  Best tires I have had on a car.
EVER.
Try Kost in Canandaigua.  May get them for a better price than Sears

Signature

Andrew D. Sisson
LG VX8100  VZW AC II   SINCE APRIL 1993
SonyEricsson Z525a CINGULAR NATION SINCE MARCH 2006

> I'm looking at replacing the tires on my 2006 Elantra.  I'm a high
> milage out in all weather person who has not been following tire tech
> lately so I thought I would post a note here.  Anyone have anything to
> reccomend?
Larry - 23 Sep 2006 17:04 GMT
The Sumiotomo HTR H4s in the factory size is 195/60hr15 run 49.00 from tire
rack.com with no sales tax plus shipping, get them installed at walmart 7.50
per tire with lifetime bal and rototation,best deal I could find.
> Post above mine recommends Sumiotomo HTR H4s  I second the opinion.  I had
> a set
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
>> lately so I thought I would post a note here.  Anyone have anything to
>> reccomend?
Edwin Pawlowski - 23 Sep 2006 17:58 GMT
"Andy S" <adsisson@NOSPAMrochester.rr.com> wrote in message
> Andrew D. Sisson
> LG VX8100  VZW AC II   SINCE APRIL 1993
> SonyEricsson Z525a CINGULAR NATION SINCE MARCH 2006

Should we care about this?
nothermark - 24 Sep 2006 01:01 GMT
Thanks for the tire info.  I'll check around as I will probably take a
couple of weeks to do this.  I'm seeing the wear bars get close to the
surface but I'm not panicky yet.  :-)

>"Andy S" <adsisson@NOSPAMrochester.rr.com> wrote in message
>> Andrew D. Sisson
>> LG VX8100  VZW AC II   SINCE APRIL 1993
>> SonyEricsson Z525a CINGULAR NATION SINCE MARCH 2006
>
>Should we care about this?

depends on what your interests are
;-)

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