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Car Forum / Hyundai Cars / December 2006"Check Engine" Light Came On. What Could It Be?
Hi, I have an old 1991 Hyundai Excel. The engine light came on during the last 1/2 mile on my way home last night. What engine parts could be screwed up? Would the light be telling me I have a problem with low oil or low water or would that have it's own designated light icon? > Hi, I have an old 1991 Hyundai Excel. The engine light came on during > the last 1/2 mile on my way home last night. What engine parts could be > screwed up? Would the light be telling me I have a problem with low oil > or low water or would that have it's own designated light icon? Could be a lot of things. Did you just get gas? If so, the gas cap may be loose and that can give a signal. If that is the culprit, it will take about 15 or 20 starts to go away after tightening the cap. Oxygen sensors go bad also. Very common cause. To know for sure, you have to use a computer for readout of hte information. The car is still drivable as is, but there may be long term effects if you don't get it check out soon to know for sure what the problem is. Pamela's car is pre-OBD-II, so the fuel cap idea is out. The computer has no way of monitoring the oil level, so that's out, too. It's possible the coolant is low and you set a code for the coolant temperature sensor because the temperature got too hot. Realistically, I'd need to know the trouble code to give you a good idea of why the lamp may be on. What it means is that the computer has detected a problem with the fuel management system. If you've got an analog voltmeter, you can try to read the trouble codes yourself. Go to www.hmaservice.com (requires Internet Explorer) and register for a free account. In the shop manual for the 1991 Excel, there will be an explanation of how to read the codes with a voltmeter. If you're unable to read the codes yourself, you should take it to a shop capable of reading the trouble codes. The dealer will be able to do this. If you're considering taking the car anywhere else, call first to see whether they can read the trouble codes on the car. Since it doesn't use OBD-II diagnostics, many shops won't have the tooling required to do this type of diagnosis. Thank you all so much for the info! I didn't drive it all day yesterday after seeing the "Check Engine" light come on the previous evening, but today I started it up and to my shock the "Check Engine" light didn't come on!! I don't know why it didn't come back on but it sure is alright with me!! And it never came back on the whole afternoon I was driving it. I suppose it will appear in time so I'm going to find a mechanic with the computer stuff that can diagnose it Hyundaitech, thank you for the details on how to get the codes (I'm going to save that for future refference), but I wouldn't know the difference between a voltmeter and a muffler bearing!! Ha!! I just recently finally found the transmission dip stick!! That little sucker sure is hidden! Really, it's almost _under_ the engine! Would you happen to know how long it should take a mechanic to actually run that test on my car? I mean, could I drive it in and within an hour have the results, or would I have to leave it all day for them to keep? Reason being, I wonder if I'd need to rent a car for this situation. "Pamela G." <Peaches_27@webtv.net> wrote in message > I don't know why it didn't come back on but it sure is alright with me!! > And it never came back on the whole afternoon I was driving it. I > suppose it will appear in time so I'm going to find a mechanic with the > computer stuff that can diagnose it > Would you happen to know how long it should take a mechanic to actually > run that test on my car? I mean, could I drive it in and within an hour > have the results, or would I have to leave it all day for them to keep? > Reason being, I wonder if I'd need to rent a car for this situation. When I had an oxygen sensor go bad, the light came on, went off, came back again, off again, then finally stayed on. Since car don't repair themselves it is a matter of time for it to come back. As for how long it takes to get the codes, if the mechanic can do it right away, it is only minutes. The problem is, most will not just drop everything to pull your car in to check it on the spot, but will want you to eave it for some time. Once the problem is determined, it could be minutes or hours to get the part and replace it. That, of course, varies at each shop. Any of the large autopart stores will read the codes for free. Your car is kinda old so you may have trouble finding one to do it, but it's worth a try. > Any of the large autopart stores will read the codes for free. Your car is > kinda old so you may have trouble finding one to do it, but it's worth a > try. However, don't always trust their readings. I had Autozone read my minivan and they read the last code that had fired from a few weeks earlier, not the code that was current. They would have had me replace a sensor that I had just replaced a couple of weeks earlier when, in fact, the problem was something totally different. I'd rather pay a real garage a few bucks to get it right. Matt > Thank you all so much for the info! I didn't drive it all day yesterday > after seeing the "Check Engine" light come on the previous evening, but [quoted text clipped - 16 lines] > have the results, or would I have to leave it all day for them to keep? > Reason being, I wonder if I'd need to rent a car for this situation. Pamela If your "Check Engine" light is not on, the mechanic will not be able to read the error code, as there isn't one. Chris "Guncho" <cgunter@hotmail.com> wrote in message > If your "Check Engine" light is not on, the mechanic will not be able > to read the error code, as there isn't one. The computer holds the codes for some period of time. http://autorepair.about.com/cs/generalinfo/l/bldef_154a.htm > "Guncho" <cgunter@hotmail.com> wrote in message > > [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > The computer holds the codes for some period of time. > http://autorepair.about.com/cs/generalinfo/l/bldef_154a.htm I stand corrected. Personally though, if the light has gone out by itself, I'm not paying someone $60 to find out why it was on. Chris "Guncho" <cgunter@hotmail.com> wrote in message > Personally though, if the light has gone out by itself, I'm not paying > someone $60 to find out why it was on. > > Chris I probably wouldn't either for a one time deal. There are times that the light will go on and the "problem" is corrected by a fresh tank of gas or some outside source like that. OTOH, engines don't repair themselves so if it does come on repeatedly, it will eventually need fixing. >>"Guncho" <cgunter@hotmail.com> wrote in message >> [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > Personally though, if the light has gone out by itself, I'm not paying > someone $60 to find out why it was on. That is your choice, but keep in mind that some failures can cause expensive damage, in particular damage to the catcon. If you'd rather spend $800 to replace the catcon than $60 to find out which sensor is getting flakey, that is your choice. Matt > >>"Guncho" <cgunter@hotmail.com> wrote in message > >> [quoted text clipped - 15 lines] > > Matt I guess I'm hesitant to shell out the cash for a check engine light that has gone off on it's own accord considering that this happens to me at least once every few months if I don't crank the gas cap after filling up. Older cars are different so maybe it's worth it. Chris >>>>"Guncho" <cgunter@hotmail.com> wrote in message >>>> [quoted text clipped - 22 lines] > > Older cars are different so maybe it's worth it. I've never had the gas cap set off my MIL light, but then I don't find correctly installing the gas cap to be that hard. :-) If you are sure that something like that is the cause, then I agree it is wasteful to spend the $60. However, if something else is wrong and you are dumping too much fuel into the engine, you can easily toast the catcon and that is a very expensive repair generally. Matt > >>>>"Guncho" <cgunter@hotmail.com> wrote in message > >>>> [quoted text clipped - 32 lines] > > Matt I know you don't believe me but if I don't turn the cap til I hear like 12 clicks, the light will come on. Is the problem my gas cap? Would a new gas cap solve the problem? Chris >>>>>>"Guncho" <cgunter@hotmail.com> wrote in message >>>>>> [quoted text clipped - 36 lines] > 12 clicks, the light will come on. Is the problem my gas cap? Would a > new gas cap solve the problem? Yes, I would think something is defective with your gas cap. I turn mine until it clicks and then stop. I probably get 2-4 clicks just from inertia, but I don't attempt to turn it beyond the first click that I hear. If the cap isn't cross-threaded, it shouldn't take more than a one click to seal as the torque should not increase behind the first click. Matt > >>>>>>"Guncho" <cgunter@hotmail.com> wrote in message > >>>>>> [quoted text clipped - 44 lines] > > Matt I'll pick one up next chance I get. Chris "Matt Whiting" <whiting@epix.net> wrote in message > I've never had the gas cap set off my MIL light, but then I don't find > correctly installing the gas cap to be that hard. :-) You pump your own gas? Sorry to hear that. In NY and parts of MA it is forbidden to pump your own. Funny thing is, the full service is cheaper than most self serves. This (pump yourself and save) is the biggest scam ever foisted on the driving public. Self serve in my town in CT is 2.579, but I bought full service in MA today for 2.329. It is probably even cheaper in NJ. Last time I was there I paid 1.939. I'll be damned if I'm going to freeze my a.s off and pay more for the privilege.  SignatureEd http://pages.cthome.net/edhome/ The reason gas is cheaper in NY and NJ has much more to do with the state gasoline tax than who is pumping. I'd be interested in seeing a cost-comparison chart by state if we normalized the data to remove taxes. Unfortunately, I'm not up for spending the time to put it together. > The reason gas is cheaper in NY and NJ has much more to do with the state > gasoline tax than who is pumping. I'd be interested in seeing a > cost-comparison chart by state if we normalized the data to remove taxes. > Unfortunately, I'm not up for spending the time to put it together. Toss zone pricing into the mix and you'd need a Cray computer to sort it all out. In 25 miles, my trip to work, four Shell stations will vary up to 35¢ from top to bottom and they usually maintain the same differential between them as prices change. On another route I frequent, three Mobile station on a 12 mile stretch will vary 20¢. Thanks everyone! The light didn't come on today either. I'll wait for it to come back on before having it checked out. I hate to spend the money until I really have to. I hope that logic does backfire though!! Wishing all of you very Happy Holidays! > "Matt Whiting" <whiting@epix.net> wrote in message > [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > than most self serves. This (pump yourself and save) is the biggest scam > ever foisted on the driving public. Actually, I prefer to pump my own gas just as I prefer to change my own oil. That way I know that the gas cap was replaced correctly and the drain plug for the oil likewise. It isn't forbidden to pump your own gas in NY. I live in PA and work in Corning, NY and they have lots of self-serve stations, actually I only know of one or two that still pump gas for you. Maybe you are thinking of NYC. Full-serve, where available around here, costs 2-5 cents per gallon more than self-serve. Why do you think it is a scam? Do you think the person pumping the gas is working for free? > Self serve in my town in CT is 2.579, but I bought full service in MA today > for 2.329. It is probably even cheaper in NJ. Last time I was there I paid > 1.939. I'll be damned if I'm going to freeze my a.s off and pay more for > the privilege. That certainly isn't the case around here. I don't mind pumping my own even at below zero temps. Maybe you should move south where it is warmer. :-) Matt "Matt Whiting" <whiting@epix.net> wrote in message > Full-serve, where available around here, costs 2-5 cents per gallon more > than self-serve. Why do you think it is a scam? Do you think the person > pumping the gas is working for free? In MA, each town fire marshall determines if the motoring public can safely pump their own gas. In the towns that are full service, the price is the same, sometimes a penny or so cheaper, than the self serve. They still manage to pay that (usually a high school kid) pump jockey a wage and make a profit. In my CT town, the self serve is competitive, but if you want full service, they charge you 20¢ a gallon more for the kid to come out and pump for you. They are really saying they don't want to do it. That is a scam if the guy up the street can pump it for the same price. We were told by the big oil companies that they were offering self service as a cost benefit to the buyer. The fact is, they kept the self service price the same and artificially raised the full service price well beyond what it should be. , > That certainly isn't the case around here. I don't mind pumping my own > even at below zero temps. Maybe you should move south where it is warmer. > :-) No reason to move; too many bugs in the south. I just have to be thoughtful as to where I buy my gas. In 45 years of driving, only once was the cap not tightened properly. The town where my office is has self service, but the next town over where the warehouse is, has full service at the same price or a penny less. So, I just buy my gas the next town over when I go there. Keeps those kids out of trouble and they can earn some beer money. > "Matt Whiting" <whiting@epix.net> wrote in message > [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > In MA, each town fire marshall determines if the motoring public can safely > pump their own gas. In the towns that are full service, the price is the I'm not sure I'd want to live in a town where the general population wasn't smart enough to operate a gas pump. :-) Matt > > "Matt Whiting" <whiting@epix.net> wrote in message > > [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > I'm not sure I'd want to live in a town where the general population > wasn't smart enough to operate a gas pump. :-) Well... it is the People's Republic of Massachusetts he's talking about after all. Signature-Mike- mmarlowREMOVE@alltel.net > I'm not sure I'd want to live in a town where the general population > wasn't smart enough to operate a gas pump. :-) > > Matt LOL. You don't know many people personally, do you? >>I'm not sure I'd want to live in a town where the general population >>wasn't smart enough to operate a gas pump. :-) >> >>Matt > > LOL. You don't know many people personally, do you? I know a lot and I only know a couple that can't or won't pump their own gas. Matt > "Matt Whiting" <whiting@epix.net> wrote in message > > I've never had the gas cap set off my MIL light, but then I don't find [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > than most self serves. This (pump yourself and save) is the biggest scam > ever foisted on the driving public. I'm guessing you really meant NJ, and not NY. It's certainly not forbidden to pump your own in NY - in fact it's flat out hard to find any full service stations in NY. Signature-Mike- mmarlowREMOVE@alltel.net >>"Matt Whiting" <whiting@epix.net> wrote in message >> [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > to pump your own in NY - in fact it's flat out hard to find any full service > stations in NY. That may be. I'm aware NJ has such a law, but then NJ is a pretty stupid and corrupt state. I know that at least the parts of NY near where I live have no problem at all with self-serve stations. Matt >>>"Matt Whiting" <whiting@epix.net> wrote in message >>> [quoted text clipped - 15 lines] > >Matt In NJ self serve is illegal - I got chewed out by a pump jockey. ; -) NY can only be downstate. Upstate it's hard to get pump help unless you are disabled or really like to pay for the priveledge. > That may be. I'm aware NJ has such a law, but then NJ is a pretty > stupid and corrupt state. I know that at least the parts of NY near > where I live have no problem at all with self-serve stations. > > Matt NJ and Oregon are the only two states left that forbid self-service. With that said, I've lived in NJ all of my driving life and have never had someone pump my gas for me. If I am at a new station, I usually ask the attendent first and have never been told no. As to the "stupid and corrupt" portion of your post, yes, we have stupid and corrupt people here. Collectively, however, I would bet dollars to doughnuts that NJ probably has the highest IQ out of the 50 states. Maybe California would beat us, but not by much. The corruption is everywhere. NJ just has a more effective way of flushing them out and reporting about it in the news than other states do. Matt's self-inflated IQ at least pulls the state of PA up around a good, solid 80 or so. Eric >>That may be. I'm aware NJ has such a law, but then NJ is a pretty >>stupid and corrupt state. I know that at least the parts of NY near [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > NJ just has a more effective way of flushing them out and reporting about > it in the news than other states do. I was talking about the government as that is what makes the stupid laws. > Matt's self-inflated IQ at least pulls the state of PA up around a good, > solid 80 or so. But since you've stooped to personal insults, maybe my statement does apply to the populace more broadly than just the politicians. Last IQ test I had placed me in the top 1% of the population. Where do you rank? Matt "Mike Marlow" <mmarlow@alltel.net> wrote in message > I'm guessing you really meant NJ, and not NY. Yes, should have been NJ. I think someone rearranged the keyboard on me. Again because of your car's age, the check engine lamp works a little differently than it does on most of the newer cars we discuss here. In many cases, if the problem isn't present when you start the car, the lamp will stay off until the problem reoccurs. The trouble code should remain in memory for something like 50 key cycles, though. A good shop (with the required tools) should be able to have the trouble code for you within several minutes. The problem is that it may require significant investigation to determine why that code set. You're best off to plan on all day and be pleasantly surprised if it's quick than to try it the other way around. > Hi, I have an old 1991 Hyundai Excel. The engine light came on during > the last 1/2 mile on my way home last night. What engine parts could be > screwed up? Would the light be telling me I have a problem with low oil > or low water or would that have it's own designated light icon? This happens to me all the time after getting gas if I don't tighten the cap enough. ('99 Accent GSI) Goes off after a few days fo driving after tightening the cap. Chris |
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