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Car Forum / Hyundai Cars / January 2007High RPM on cold start!
Hi I seem to recall a previous post about a similar problem earlier but I can't seem to find it. I have of late noticed that as soon as I start the car (2006 Sonata V6) in the morning it revs up to 2k rpm then settles down to around 1200 for a while. Doesn't go below 1000 for a long time. Rarely get time to wait & see if it will ;).. Which brings up another question, I recently read on a brochure in a car dealers shop that there is no need to idle the car to warm it up before driving away as this doesn't improve fuel consumption, but only consumes extra fuel. However I have always thought it is best for the engine to warm up a bit before driving away... thanks for any inputs... "Vineeth" <vineeth.alex@gmail.com> wrote in message > Which brings up another question, I recently read on a brochure in a > car dealers shop that there is no need to idle the car to warm it up > before driving away as this doesn't improve fuel consumption, but only > consumes extra fuel. However I have always thought it is best for the > engine to warm up a bit before driving away... > thanks for any inputs... This has been a controversial issue for some time. Near as I can tell, thee really is not need for a warm up time, however, the first couple of miles should be at a modest speed. This is not just for the engine, but for warming of the differential, wheel bearings, transmission, etc. Lubricants used in the past 10 years are far superior to anything used in the 1930's when many of our driving customs started. Cold carburetors did not always function as well with the automatic choke like the present fuel injection either. Nor do we have to remember when to push in the choke knob on the dash. I have a remote starter so the car will be warmed up in many cases. > Hi > I seem to recall a previous post about a similar problem earlier but I [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > engine to warm up a bit before driving away... > thanks for any inputs... The brochure was right, warming up a car does nothing but waste fuel and pollute the air. The best way to warm up a car is to drive it. > > Hi > > I seem to recall a previous post about a similar problem earlier but I [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > The brochure was right, warming up a car does nothing but waste fuel and > pollute the air. The best way to warm up a car is to drive it. I disagree - to a point. I have experienced way too many sub-zero mornings where the lubricants in the car are thickened up, for me to jump right on this practice. Try this - leave your car outside overnight on a sub-zero night. Jump in, start it up and put it in gear, and take off. Notice if there is any difference at all in it's response versus the response once things have warmed up a bit. Not to mention, that in the winter time it is more than a little important to have such things as defrosters functional when heading down the road. That does not happen with a cold engine.  Signature-Mike- mmarlowREMOVE@alltel.net >> > Hi >> > I seem to recall a previous post about a similar problem earlier but I [quoted text clipped - 22 lines] > more than a little important to have such things as defrosters functional > when heading down the road. That does not happen with a cold engine. Lots of subzero mornings would be a good reason to use synthetic oil - at least during the winter. I'd bet that it would actually make a difference in the life expectancy of the engine under these - lube oil available, and circulating, vs. lube oil in jello form in oil pan - conditions. >>>>Hi >>>>I seem to recall a previous post about a similar problem earlier but I [quoted text clipped - 27 lines] > the life expectancy of the engine under these - lube oil available, and > circulating, vs. lube oil in jello form in oil pan - conditions. This is the only reason I use synthetic. Even though winters have been warmer the last couple of decades, we still get several subzero days each winter typically and -20 happens every 3-4 winters or so. Although, I must admit that the new 5W20 dino oils flow pretty well in the cold. I ran the OEM oil in my Sonata for most of last winter as I bought the car right before Christmas. It cranked well even at 10 F. We didn't have any below zero days last winter as I recall. And when I switched to Synthetic 5W20 the difference as compared to the dino oil was much less dramatic that in days gone by with 10W30 and heavier oils so I suspect that even with dino oil you are fine down to zero or below if you use the recommended 5W20 weight. Matt > Although, I must admit that the new 5W20 dino oils flow pretty well in > the cold. I ran the OEM oil in my Sonata for most of last winter as I [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > so I suspect that even with dino oil you are fine down to zero or below > if you use the recommended 5W20 weight. I've been quite satisfied, as you observe Matt, with the flow of 5W20 or 30 in the winter. As noted in my other response, though, it's not all about the oil. The engine has to come up to temp for many things to be right - tolerances, mixture controls, etc. Signature-Mike- mmarlowREMOVE@alltel.net With all due respect the question of warming up the engine or not to an operating temperature that will give you defroster capability does not address the major issue. In sub zero temps or those below 20F you face the issue of Automatic transmission function and even more importantly suspension movement. You can have the engine sit for a full 5 minutes at idle and if you drive off and hit a moderately deep pot hole at sub zero temps you have a MUCH greater chance of doing damage. I have been advised by a number of factory techs that warming up the engine for 30 seconds to one minute is all that is necessary, however one must be careful not to stress the trans and suspension until the car has had some miles put on to warm these components up. Severe cold is the best friend the repair shops have. It does far more damage to parts other that the engine. >> Although, I must admit that the new 5W20 dino oils flow pretty well in >> the cold. I ran the OEM oil in my Sonata for most of last winter as I [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > the oil. The engine has to come up to temp for many things to be right - > tolerances, mixture controls, etc. >>Although, I must admit that the new 5W20 dino oils flow pretty well in >>the cold. I ran the OEM oil in my Sonata for most of last winter as I [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > the oil. The engine has to come up to temp for many things to be right - > tolerances, mixture controls, etc. That isn't much of an issue with today's engines. Most have aluminum blocks which match the aluminum pistons much better from a coefficient of thermal expansion perspective. Driving away slowly and keeping the revs down for the first mile or two is the best way to warm things up. I've done this for 20 years now with very good results. Usually by the time I get done scrapping the windshield, the car has idled at least 1 minute and often longer which is plenty as long as you can see out the windshield. The Sonata is worse in the defrost department than my other vehicles so often the fog on the windshield is the limiting factor for me time-wise. Matt "Matt Whiting" <whiting@epix.net> wrote in message > Driving away slowly and keeping the revs down for the first mile or two is > the best way to warm things up. I've done this for 20 years now with very [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > defrost department than my other vehicles so often the fog on the > windshield is the limiting factor for me time-wise. That is what I've done in the past. Yes, it works well. The two miles to the highway is sufficient to get it ready for some speed. It does take some time for the oil to really get heated though. My Sonata new has a remote start. I do not intend of driving off on a cold car nearly as often. Now that the weather is getting cold, I set the system to "defrost" when I park it for the night and by the time I leave the house, the windshield is clear. Only 3 months old, I've not had a serious need for defrost yet so I'm not sure how it compares to other cars. Sure is nice to hit that button and go out to a reasonably warm car, including the heated seat. I don't know why I never put a remote in my last couple of cars. Any I own in the future will have it. > "Matt Whiting" <whiting@epix.net> wrote in message > [quoted text clipped - 19 lines] > including the heated seat. I don't know why I never put a remote in my last > couple of cars. Any I own in the future will have it. I agree that is why I have a two-car heated (sort of heated anyway) garage. The only problem is I now have three cars. Since the Sonata is the newest and cheapest car, it sits outside. I keep my Chevy truck with snowplow inside as when I need to plow my driveway I don't want to have to worry about my plow vehicle starting or having to clear all the snow off so I can see to plow. It is nice to open the garage door, lower the plow and away I go! Matt "Matt Whiting" <whiting@epix.net> wrote in message > I agree that is why I have a two-car heated (sort of heated anyway) > garage. Garage? Oh, the place I have my workshop. Both cars sit outside > "Matt Whiting" <whiting@epix.net> wrote in message > >>I agree that is why I have a two-car heated (sort of heated anyway) >>garage. > > Garage? Oh, the place I have my workshop. Both cars sit outside I built a 12x24 outbuilding for shop and lawn equipment, but not being heated is a pain in the winter. Matt > "Matt Whiting" <whiting@epix.net> wrote in message > > I agree that is why I have a two-car heated (sort of heated anyway) > > garage. > > Garage? Oh, the place I have my workshop. Both cars sit outside The wife isn't so happy when I get a paint job in this time of year. Both cars have to stay outside while I'm painting. Signature-Mike- mmarlowREMOVE@alltel.net Snip Matt, A heated garage is great if you live in an area that does not salt the roads. You are MUCH better off keeping the car cold if you do not have the ability to wash off the underside with all the salt accumulation before putting it in a heated area. The warm air will greatly enhance the speed of the salt to work corrosive magic on the vehicle. Double Tap > I agree that is why I have a two-car heated (sort of heated anyway) > garage. The only problem is I now have three cars. Since the Sonata is [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > > Matt > Snip > [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > on the vehicle. > Double Tap I agree, but my garage is under my house as part of the basement so it gets some heat from the house, hence my comment about "being sort of heated." Matt > I agree that is why I have a two-car heated (sort of heated anyway) > garage. The only problem is I now have three cars. Since the Sonata is [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > snow off so I can see to plow. It is nice to open the garage door, > lower the plow and away I go! I leave my plow truck outside so that both cars can stay in the garage. Ugh!!! Few things are more fun than cleaning a full size pickup off after a couple feet of snowfall. I have a high-rise cap on mine and man can that thing hold a pile up of snow. Signature-Mike- mmarlowREMOVE@alltel.net >>I agree that is why I have a two-car heated (sort of heated anyway) >>garage. The only problem is I now have three cars. Since the Sonata is [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > couple feet of snowfall. I have a high-rise cap on mine and man can that > thing hold a pile up of snow. Yes, I have a high-rise (well moderate rise anyway) cap as well with an extended cab truck. I'd much rather clean the Sonate 10 times than the truck once so the truck stays in the garage. Also, the truck at 14 years of age is still worth as much as the Sonata! :-) And I don't like the plow cylinders out in the weather as they rust pretty fast if they aren't kept greased up. I'm not impressed with the chrome that Western used on their angle cylinders. The owner's manual says to coat them with grease for storage and I found out the first year why they recommend that! Matt > Yes, I have a high-rise (well moderate rise anyway) cap as well with an > extended cab truck. I'd much rather clean the Sonate 10 times than the [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > them with grease for storage and I found out the first year why they > recommend that! I worried about that at one time with my Fisher, because I've had other cylinders rust up when left out in the elements. My plow is a '94 and it sits outside all year long. I have no rust on any of my cylinders at all. I don't take any precautions with them to prevent rust either. I just drop the plow on some concrete blocks for the summer and let it sit there all summer long. The issue I can deal with from time to time that you don't have to contend with, is that depending on how cold it is at night, my plow can freeze to the ground and sometimes the pump won't lift it free. I have to rock the truck to break it free. I try to keep a scrap of 2x8 under it when I think the temps will be in the ranges to cause this problem, but every now and then... Signature-Mike- mmarlowREMOVE@alltel.net >>Yes, I have a high-rise (well moderate rise anyway) cap as well with an >>extended cab truck. I'd much rather clean the Sonate 10 times than the [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > the plow on some concrete blocks for the summer and let it sit there all > summer long. How do you like the Fisher overall? I like the Western other than the rust prone cylinders. The controls are great (I have the hand-held controller which is nice with the standard tranny) and the poly blade is nice also. If they had only used better chrome on the cylinders... > The issue I can deal with from time to time that you don't have to contend > with, is that depending on how cold it is at night, my plow can freeze to > the ground and sometimes the pump won't lift it free. I have to rock the > truck to break it free. I try to keep a scrap of 2x8 under it when I think > the temps will be in the ranges to cause this problem, but every now and > then... Yes, another reason to keep the plow inside. I also like having the cab somewhat warm when I climb inside otherwise the truck is just getting warm when I get done plowing! Matt > How do you like the Fisher overall? I like the Western other than the > rust prone cylinders. The controls are great (I have the hand-held > controller which is nice with the standard tranny) and the poly blade is > nice also. If they had only used better chrome on the cylinders... I really like my Fisher all in all. Mine is a fully hydraulic and I really wanted an electric over hydraulic, but I took the first good used deal I came across. The electric over hydraulics are much faster than the full hydraulic models and they have refined them so that they don't just suck the alternator right down when you use them like they used to. Mine is a minute mount and I really like the way that my truck mounts tuck up againts my truck frame a lot cleaner than some of the other plow manufacturers do. I really don't have anything that hangs beneath the front of my truck at all to speak of. My blade is steel which I really like. My plow does not have down pressure like some of the newer plows do, and you count on the weight of the blade when you are back blading away from a building. We get a lot more snow up here than you do (except for this year) and back blading is a part of plowing - inescapable. > Yes, another reason to keep the plow inside. I also like having the cab > somewhat warm when I climb inside otherwise the truck is just getting > warm when I get done plowing! I fire my truck up before I start to wipe the snow off, and then I usually go back inside and let the truck get nice and warm before I go plow. My driveway takes me about a half of an hour to plow (if I get meticulous about it), and I have a couple of friends that I plow also, so I'm in my truck for an hour or two when I go out to plow. That cast iron 350 takes a lot longer to warm up to the point of delivering heat than my six cylinders do. Signature-Mike- mmarlowREMOVE@alltel.net >>How do you like the Fisher overall? I like the Western other than the >>rust prone cylinders. The controls are great (I have the hand-held [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > hydraulic models and they have refined them so that they don't just suck the > alternator right down when you use them like they used to. My Western is electro-hydraulic and it moves pretty fast and doesn't really affect the alternator when in operation, but it does dim the lights a little! > Mine is a minute mount and I really like the way that my truck mounts tuck > up againts my truck frame a lot cleaner than some of the other plow [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > building. We get a lot more snow up here than you do (except for this year) > and back blading is a part of plowing - inescapable. Same with mine. It hangs from a chain on the lift arm so its weight is all that provides down force, but this hasn't been a problem. Mine also has the mount where everything detaches, including the power unit. All I have on the truck is a small frame under the bumper and two electrical cords in the grill. >>Yes, another reason to keep the plow inside. I also like having the cab >>somewhat warm when I climb inside otherwise the truck is just getting [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > an hour or two when I go out to plow. That cast iron 350 takes a lot longer > to warm up to the point of delivering heat than my six cylinders do. My driveway is only 1800' long and I can plow it and my parking areas around the house in 20 minutes if the snowfall is less than a foot or 35-40 minutes for deeper snows. I have a cast iron V-6 (4.3L) and it takes a long time to warm up at idle (probably 15 minutes). Even plowing, I don't get a lot of heat for nearly 10 minutes, but once it starts heating it will roast you right out of the cab. When I drive it to work, it takes about 8 highway miles to get it fully warmed up on the temperature gauge, but then it will heat a small house. I have to turn the fan completely off if I'm at highway speeds and move the temp indicator about halfway towards cold. I wish the Sonata had even half of the heating capability of my K1500! Matt > Lots of subzero mornings would be a good reason to use synthetic oil - at > least during the winter. I'd bet that it would actually make a difference in > the life expectancy of the engine under these - lube oil available, and > circulating, vs. lube oil in jello form in oil pan - conditions. That might be the instinctive conclusion Bob, but dino has served well over the decades. I've never lost a car to lubrication problems, even with the thickening issues. It's not all about the lubricants though. It's also about the metal components that make up such things as engines, transmissions, etc. They are built with tolerances, expansions, etc. There is an operating temperature for a vehicle and it's not dead cold. And... as I had stated earlier, you need a warm engine to get functional defrosters, etc. Signature-Mike- mmarlowREMOVE@alltel.net > Hi > I seem to recall a previous post about a similar problem earlier but I [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > engine to warm up a bit before driving away... > thanks for any inputs... Mine I-4 doesn't rev that high, maybe 1600-1800 and then settles down to 1000 until warmed up. Yes, idling more than a few seconds is just wasting gas. I idle maybe 10 seconds and then drive away slowly. Matt 2000 RPM doesn't sound abnormally high for a cold start in cold weather. Part of the strategy is to warm the engine quickly enough to be able to use the oxygen sensors to be able to control fuel mixture. > 2000 RPM doesn't sound abnormally high for a cold start in cold weather. > Part of the strategy is to warm the engine quickly enough to be able to > use the oxygen sensors to be able to control fuel mixture. Thanks a lot. Now I can rest assured that my car is not peculiar.. & I need not feel guilty for not idling too long.. I must say this is an awesome group... >> 2000 RPM doesn't sound abnormally high for a cold start in cold weather. >> Part of the strategy is to warm the engine quickly enough to be able to >> use the oxygen sensors to be able to control fuel mixture. > Thanks a lot. Now I can rest assured that my car is not peculiar.. & I > need not feel guilty for not idling too long.. > I must say this is an awesome group... Keep in mind, that all cars are designed first with pollution control in mind (Oxygen sensors), not with longevity. I would not ride any engine before oil reached all the places and engine runs smoothly. Keep in mind, that most damage to your engine happens in your driveway. |
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