> So here's my situation. My '01 elantra is running rough again. It
> stumbles at idle and at any rpm below about 2500.
[quoted text clipped - 14 lines]
> didn't think to get the actual codes, but I could get the codes read
> again if that would help anyone.
> What did you use for plug wires and plugs? There are a lot of really
> junky aftermarket wires out there. I've had good luck with NGKs, but
> they can be hard to find in stores. As for plugs, the stock ones are
> Champions, but NGKs also work well. Another possibility is a problem
> with one or both of the coil packs. Check that they're solidly
> mounted and that the wire connections are clean and tight.
On the first change (which solved the problem) I used NGK plugs and
autozone brand wires. More recently when I changed the plugs, I went
for cheaper ones, autolite I think. The thought was that I could get
cheap clean ones now, and see if some other problem was damaging the
plugs. I can get better ones though.
I should have mentioned, with the more recent problems I pulled off and
checked the coil packs. The resistance of both on the secondary coil
was just barely at the bottom edge of what's acceptable in the shop
manual, which made me curious, but since they "passed" I put them back.
They had almost identical readings, so there's no clear winner of which
to replace (since on the two different occassions that this has
happened it's been cylinders 3 then 1, which are on different coils).
I suppose I could do coils/good wires/good plugs in a last shotgun
effort to solve this, but if you have any additional suggestions I'd
love to hear them.
Thanks
Ben
hyundaitech - 20 Apr 2007 23:50 GMT
My money is on the AutoZone wires.
You don't need to have the codes reread. They were P0301 and P0455, and
neither has anything to do with the other.
Since we already know the misfire is on cylinder #1, here's what I'd
recommend. Remove the engine cover and pull the #1 plug wire off the
plug. Then set it back in place on the plug without clipping on. Start
the car. Then gradually lift the wire off the plug and observe the spark
in the hole (or anywhere else it's occurring). The spark should be coming
out the end of the wire and jumping to the plug or the plug tube. If it
comes out of the side of the wire, the wire is bad. If it comes out of
the coil, the coil is bad. If it comes out between the wire and coil, the
seal there is bad, requiring at least new wires.
I've said this before, and I know many people disagree with me, but I find
factory wires to be an excellent investment and will consider nothing else
for my own or customer's vehicles.
Brian Nystrom - 21 Apr 2007 14:41 GMT
>> What did you use for plug wires and plugs? There are a lot of really
>> junky aftermarket wires out there. I've had good luck with NGKs, but
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
> On the first change (which solved the problem) I used NGK plugs and
> autozone brand wires.
I would bet that's your problem, though it still could be the coils. The
only wires I know of that are pretty much guaranteed to work well are
NGK, Kingsborne, Magnecor (expensive!) and the factory wires. The
factory wires are somewhat pricey, but you can probably get them faster
than the less expensive NGK or Kingsborne, which typically have to be
mail-ordered. Magnecor wires may well be the best on the market, but
they're expensive. I'm running NGK plugs (V-power) and wires and they
work great.
Richard Dreyfuss - 25 Apr 2007 13:22 GMT
>> On the first change (which solved the problem) I used NGK plugs and
>> autozone brand wires.
>
> I would bet that's your problem...
<snip>
Sure enough it seems to be. I bought a set of wires at the dealer, and
for the moment at least the problem's gone and the car is running
smoothly.
Thanks to you and Hyundaitech.
And boo to autozone branded parts.
Ben