 |
 | Home | Contact Us | FAQ | Search & Site Map | Link to Us |
 | Sign In | Join | Other 45 Sites in Network |
Car Forum / Hyundai Cars / June 2007Synthetic oil opinions?
Hi, I have a 3.3L V6 engine in my Sonata filled with normal mineral oil. I purchased the car brand new 4 months ago here in the UK and have done 2500 miles. I thought it would be a good idea to change oil after the break-in period. My dealer only uses Total Quartz 9000 5W-40 synthetic oil. Some questions. 1) Anyone have any comments about this oil? The car manual states SAE 5W-20, 5W-30. I'm wondering if 5W-40 will still be ok? 2) I read around the internet that it is a good idea to break-in using mineral oil and then change to synthetic. Any comments as to what a typical mileage would be to fill with synthetic? 3) Interestingly, my dealer also sells Citroen cars, and these come filled with synthetic from new. I read on the internet that synthetic is 'too slippery' to allow for proper break-in. I'm wondering if this adversly affects break-in/ engine life? BTW, the cost for oil and filter is 60 GBP cheers, nick "NickNike" <aaaaaaaaa@aaaaaaa.com> wrote in message . > My dealer only uses Total Quartz 9000 5W-40 synthetic oil. Then go to another dealer or an independent shop. > Some questions. > > 1) Anyone have any comments about this oil? > The car manual states SAE 5W-20, 5W-30. > I'm wondering if 5W-40 will still be ok? Do you think your dealer knows better than the high priced, silled, experienced engineers that designed the engine? They specify a particular weight for a reason so why chance something else? > 3) Interestingly, my dealer also sells Citroen cars, and these come filled > with synthetic from new. > I read on the internet that synthetic is 'too slippery' to allow for > proper break-in. > I'm wondering if this adversly affects break-in/ engine life? Some high performance engiens do come iwth synthetics. It is better oil, but do you really need it? How long do you expect to keep the car? I've gone 200,000 miles on a few cars with no oil related problems so spending more moneyh for "better" would be no gain for me. > BTW, the cost for oil and filter is 60 GBP OUCH, I'd find another place. I know places around here that will do it for less than half that. >> 1) Anyone have any comments about this oil? >> The car manual states SAE 5W-20, 5W-30. [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] >experienced engineers that designed the engine? They specify a particular >weight for a reason so why chance something else? Well said Ed. My dealer used 20W50 at my 1st oil change. I nearly freaked when I read it on the itemized bill. When I questioned him about it, he said it was "better than the oil Hyundai recommended". Holy schmoly! I drove straight home and changed to 10w30, which is on the recommended list, and I think is better for my hot climate than the water-thin 5W. I think there's a place for Synthetic. If you intend to drive the car 250K miles, or you live in a brutally cold climate, I think it's worth the extra bucks. - Bob >>> 1) Anyone have any comments about this oil? >>> The car manual states SAE 5W-20, 5W-30. [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > the recommended list, and I think is better for my hot climate than > the water-thin 5W. The 5W applies at the cold end. At the hot end, they are both 30 weight so there is no difference. Matt >>> 1) Anyone have any comments about this oil? >>> The car manual states SAE 5W-20, 5W-30. [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > 250K miles, or you live in a brutally cold climate, I think it's worth > the extra bucks. Your dealer is an idiot. Find another one or just do your own maintenance. >Your dealer is an idiot. Find another one or just do your own maintenance. You've got that right Brian! That was the fist oil change. No 2, they shorted me 4.75 Qt's. of oil. (!!!) No 3, they shorted me 1.5 Qt's. of oil. No 4, I went to my local "Oil X-Press", where they've never made a mistake in 20 years. They did a perfect job. Fool me once, shame on you. Fool me twice, shame on me. Fool me 3 times, uh, shame on Matt. :) - Bob > Hi, > I have a 3.3L V6 engine in my Sonata filled with normal mineral oil. [quoted text clipped - 23 lines] > cheers, > nick Use the oil weight recommended in the manual. I use synthetic oil in my car, but it doesn't cost me anywhere near what you've quoted, so it's worth it to me. I would never pay such an exorbitant price for an oil change! Id be curious to read HyundaiTechs answers to these questions ., but, Id go with the mfgr's recommendation for oil weight . I dont think 5w40 is the recommended . Im running 5w30 synthetic Mobil 1 with KandN synthetic Oil filter in my 2002 Hyundai SantaFe 2.7 litre for maximum protection. I know they have Walmart Stores over in the UK, so, why dont you just buy some ramps , Mobil 1 Oil with oil filter and do it yourself ? Youll save alot of money plus it could be a wonderful bonding time with the wife ! > Id be curious to read HyundaiTechs answers to these questions ., but, > Id go with the mfgr's recommendation for oil weight . I dont think 5w40 [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > yourself ? Youll save alot of money plus it could be a wonderful > bonding time with the wife ! If you're going to go to Walmart, you can get their SuperTech synthetic oil in a 5 quart jug for a little over half the cost of Mobil 1. Before anyone starts speculating, SuperTech Synthetic is a full synthetic oil, it's NOT recycled and it's blended by Warren Oil, a company that produces many of the major brand oils that you see on the shelves. Oil analysis shows that it's comparable to these name brand oils in every way, except for the price. 'Warren Oil, a company that produces many of the major brand oils that you see on the shelves. Oil analysis shows that it's comparable to these name brand oils in every way, except for the price.' REPLY: Interesting info. Thanks. Definitely use only what's recommended in the owner's manual. According to the U.S. shop manual, the specified oil is 5W-20, grade SJ or better. 5W-30 is listed as an acceptable oil. So I'd recommend using 5W-20 if you can find it, and if not, 5W-30. It's my personal opinion that there's no significant advantage to synthetic oil if you use normal oil change intervals. In addition, manuafacturers don't allow longer intervals because synthetic is used. I've driven cars up to 328,000 miles on dino oil. And that particular car never once had an oil-related failure. In every case where I was able to verify the mileage on the engine, I've achieved over 200,000 miles on every engine, and only one (out of four) had an oil-related failure. Hyundaitech correct me if I'm wrong but doesn't the owners manual allow for 10W-30 as well? I don't have an owner's manual to check at the moment, so I cannot say. I figured this was an exercise that Nick could undertake himself. But if someone here wants to actually look this up in their 2006 Sonata Owner's Manual, I'd be happy to hear the results. >I don't have an owner's manual to check at the moment, so I cannot say. I > figured this was an exercise that Nick could undertake himself. But if > someone here wants to actually look this up in their 2006 Sonata Owner's > Manual, I'd be happy to hear the results. From the book: NOTE: o For good fuel economy, SAE 5W-20 (5W- 30), ILSAC GF-3 engine oil is preferred regardless of regional option and engine variation. o If SAE 5W-20, ILSAC GF-3 engine oil is not available, secondary recommended engine oil for corresponding temperature range can be used. Thanks, Bob. Yes it does state that earlier in the book in addition if you go to the end of the manual, 9-4 there is a Lubricate Chart that states the following: "SAE 5W-20, SAE 5W-30 (ALL TEMP. RANGE) ILSAC GF-3 SAE 10W-30 (ABOVE 0?F(-18?C))" > From the book: > NOTE: [quoted text clipped - 14 lines] > > range can be used.l >I don't have an owner's manual to check at the moment, so I cannot say. I > figured this was an exercise that Nick could undertake himself. But if > someone here wants to actually look this up in their 2006 Sonata Owner's > Manual, I'd be happy to hear the results. Hi, I mention this in my original message, being The UK car manual states SAE 5W-20, 5W-30. I've homed-in on Amsoil 5W-30. This complies with the manual and I found a place in the UK that sells for a reasonable price. The specification looks pretty impressive as well. I want to use a good oil to keep my options open. I might keep the car for many years. I'm still intrigued that some car manufacturers fill their new vehicles with synthetic oil. According to several sources on the net, synthetic is too good at lubrication to allow for correct break-in, hence it is preferable to break-in with mineral oil. Or is this all hogwash? I trust there are no subtle problems using Amsoil oil with a new Hyundai oil filter cartridge. cheers, nick 'According to several sources on the net, synthetic is too good at lubrication to allow for correct break-in, hence it is preferable to break-in with mineral oil. Or is this all hogwash?' REPLY: Ive heard that you can use synthetic from the start but it just requires a longer breakin period. Many new higher performance cars use Mobil 1 from the factory including Corvette. > 'According to several sources on the net, synthetic is too good at > lubrication to allow for correct break-in, hence it is preferable to [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > requires a longer breakin period. Many new higher performance cars use > Mobil 1 from the factory including Corvette. There has been a lot of discussion about whether synthetic is more slippery than dino oil, but I've yet to see anything definitive. One data point that suggests that this is a myth is synthetic oil is approved for us in motorcycles that use wet clutches. However, I used it in my Kawasaki Voyager and the clutch developed a shudder as it engaged. It never outright slipped once fully engaged, but the engagement wasn't as smooth. I switched back to dino oil and the probably largely disappeared, although it never went back to normal completely. I suspect the difference in slipperiness is small, otherwise, wet clutches wouldn't work with synthetic oil as they are quit sensitive to the slipperiness of the oil they are bathed in. I can't support it with data, but my opinion is that the break-in issues are mostly myth as with many other aspects of synthetics. Most new cars don't require much of a break-in anyway. Matt "Matt Whiting" <whiting@epix.net> wrote in message > There has been a lot of discussion about whether synthetic is more > slippery than dino oil, but I've yet to see anything definitive. One data > point that suggests that this is a myth is synthetic oil is approved for > us in motorcycles that use wet clutches. Slipperiness may be the wrong term. It certainly does give better protection at high rpm though. Some years ago I used to fly RC model airplanes with methanol based fueled 2 cycle engines. They'd run at 15,000 to 20,000 rpm. With synthetic lubricants, we'd be able to get an extra 2 to 3 thousand rpm more and it would run that way for a full tank whereas the regular oils would allow the engine to overheat and stop. Based on what we did, I'm convinced that synthetics offer superior performance. Given the quality of dino oils though, I'm not convinced that normal engines under normal driving conditions actually need it. If you like to play in the high rpm ranges, go for it. > "Matt Whiting" <whiting@epix.net> wrote in message >> There has been a lot of discussion about whether synthetic is more [quoted text clipped - 14 lines] > conditions actually need it. If you like to play in the high rpm ranges, go > for it. Yes, no question that synthetics behave much better at high temperatures. Even if they aren't more slippery than dino oil, they maintain their slipperiness much better when the oil temps get above 300 degrees. I think that is pretty well known. I'm just not sure if they have any real advantage in this regard at normal oil temps in the 180 to 220 range. Matt >Some years ago I used to fly RC model airplanes with methanol based fueled 2 >cycle engines. They'd run at 15,000 to 20,000 rpm. With synthetic >lubricants, we'd be able to get an extra 2 to 3 thousand rpm more and it >would run that way for a full tank whereas the regular oils would allow the >engine to overheat and stop. Red Max is the real deal! ;) - Bob > Hyundaitech correct me if I'm wrong but doesn't the owners manual > allow for 10W-30 as well? The only reason you'd want to use a 10W based oil is if you live in a very hot climate. I concur with HT. As an ex-mechanic, I really saw no difference in engine longevity between the dino/syn oil bases. Much like HT, I try to get all the life I can from my cars, and I have to say that oil changes at the 3k mark here in hot/dusty AZ contributes to engine life. My 92 Nissan Sentra had 248k miles on it (still kick myself for selling it!) when I sold it off. No leaks, no oil burn, and still plenty of performance from the DOHC 16 valve 4 cyl which was still getting 34 mpg. I did replace the front main seal at 110k though. I agree in COLD climates that syn oils may help at startup, but both of my vehicles are garaged and really aren't exposed to cold climate. On another group I belong to (Nissan Quest/Mercury Villager) this topic came up and oh boy!!!! General consensus was that if dino works for you, rock on. If you like syn, rock on. However, all those telemarketing cats from the 90s (Slick 50, etc.) are still settling lawsuits from all of their bs claims. Just my .02... Great group and HT, you rock!! "HT for prez!" Steve- AZ > Definitely use only what's recommended in the owner's manual. According > to [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > verify the mileage on the engine, I've achieved over 200,000 miles on > every engine, and only one (out of four) had an oil-related failure. > I agree in COLD climates that syn oils may help at startup, but both of my > vehicles are garaged and really aren't exposed to cold climate. In the cold North East (upstate NY), I've stuck with dino oil over the years. My truck is a 94 Silverado with a 350 and it sits outside all year long. Starts right up without a hitch every day, winter or summer. No signs of problems with cold related oil thickening even in the coldest of winter. I keep 5W30 in it all year long. I'm also a guy who keeps his vehicles for over 200K  Signature-Mike- mmarlowREMOVE@alltel.net Many thanks for the replies. cheers, Nick > Hi, > I have a 3.3L V6 engine in my Sonata filled with normal mineral oil. [quoted text clipped - 23 lines] > cheers, > nick I've used synthetics since the late 70s and will never go back to dino oil. The main reason is the much better winter starting. From a wear perspective, I believe synthetic is better, but probably not enough to be a reason to use it. It also tolerates high temperatures much better, which is important for some engines in some climates. I use both Mobil 1 and Syntec and run 5,000 mile changes when the vehicle has less than 100,000 miles and 10,000 mile change intervals once past 100,000. I stick with the manufacturers recommended viscosity range. Matt 'and run 5,000 mile changes when the vehicle has less than 100,000 miles and 10,000 mile change intervals once past 100,000.' REPLY: Whats the purpose of going longer in duration as the mileage increases past 100 k ? > 'and run 5,000 mile changes when the vehicle has less than 100,000 miles > and 10,000 mile change intervals once past 100,000.' > > REPLY: Whats the purpose of going longer in duration as the mileage > increases past 100 k ? In many vehicles I've owned the powertrain warranty ran at least 70,000 miles and the Hyundai is 100,000 and 10K exceeds the manufacturers service interval for most vehicles. So the main reason is to avoid any potential warranty excuses. The other reason is that the value of the vehicle is pretty well down after 100K and my risk tolerance is thus higher. Although, so far I've not had a single vehicle of the 6 or so that I've done this with that showed any signs of distress with 10K change intervals. Matt
|
Reply to this Message |
 Sign In
 Join
 My Latest Posts My Monitored Threads My Blog My Photo Gallery My Profile My Homepage Start New Thread Enable EMail Alerts Rate this Thread
|
©2008 Advenet LLC Privacy Policy - Terms of Use
This website includes both content owned or controlled by Advenet as well as content owned or controlled by third parties.