> Dear readers,
>
[quoted text clipped - 17 lines]
>
> Thankyou and appreciate it.
Two problems. You can't see the belt unless you take things apart. The
other is you can't truly predict just when it will break. If it does break,
the engine will be ruined as it is an interference engine.
We can give you all sorts of anecdotal stories, but if it breaks tomorrow
morning, you're screwed. Anything anyone tells you is just a guess. May
last another 20,000 miles, may break next time you turn the key. How much
tolerance do you have to pain? If you don't care if the engine is
destroyed, you can stretch it out but then it will cost you far more than
$500.
Your buddy's experience with an Acura does not change the fact that some
belts break before the 100,000 mile mark.
Irwell - 12 Mar 2009 20:49 GMT
>> Dear readers,
>>
[quoted text clipped - 31 lines]
> Your buddy's experience with an Acura does not change the fact that some
> belts break before the 100,000 mile mark.
I had a FIAT with push rods for lifting the valve cams, one broke on me,
hell of a clatter but no major damage to the engine, Why does this timing
belt on the Hyaundais have to internal anyway?
Mike Marlow - 12 Mar 2009 22:33 GMT
>>> Dear readers,
>>>
[quoted text clipped - 35 lines]
> hell of a clatter but no major damage to the engine, Why does this timing
> belt on the Hyaundais have to internal anyway?
How about trying that again? Your question makes no sense. As for your
Fiat - your pushrod engine is an entirely different engine design.

Signature
-Mike-
mmarlowREMOVE@alltel.net
> Dear readers,
>
[quoted text clipped - 17 lines]
>
> Thankyou and appreciate it.
First - you don't have a V4. You either have a V6 or a straight 4. If you
have the 4, you are really taking your chances in not changing the belt.
If you have the 2.7L V6, they are known to go well beyond the 60K spec'd by
Hyundai.

Signature
-Mike-
mmarlowREMOVE@alltel.net
Elmo Finsterwald - 26 Mar 2009 15:55 GMT
How about the 3.5 litre V6 in the 2002 XG350? Is all the stuff that turns
with a belt in it pretty much worn out at 60,000 miles. The alternator went
out on it at 34,000 and was an engine removal $735.00 job but under
warranty. I just want to keep it long enough for the 10/100,000 warranty.
It's a 2002. Have 37,990 miles on it now. Is this one an interference
engine too Mike? The miles that I drive I believe will be less than 100K
when the time expires. Don't want it after the warranty expires. It is
going down hill fast now. Darned good car until I had it 5 years then it
went south in a hurry. 3 engine pulls, one for alternator, one for
transmission repair. One for some sort of sensor. One complete dash removal
for a problem with a cabin temperature sensor of some sort. Everytime the
Check engine light comes on, I take it in. I'd be in worse shape than a
AIG exec with no bonus if I had been out the repairs out of pocket. Next
car is definitely not gonna be a Hyundai unless they come out with a simple
car that a simple guy can repair. When engine has to be pulled for the
simplest of repairs, they aren't for me any longer. When the kid told me
about engine R&R to replace an alternator my mind quickly thought of all
the ones I had taken off, swapped in the old core and put a rebuilt one on
in 30 minutes. Times have sure changed. As the other fellow asked, wonder
why they did use belts instead of timing change? I guess CHEAP was the name
of the game.