Thomas, see my comments in your text...

Is it possible for you to rent one? I see them all the time in second-hand
stores - just recently, I saw a very good Craftsman (Sears) model for $25.
If not, can you borrow one from a friend?

I don't think that will work as well as this.... try reinstalling the
starter, then using a very very stout breaker bar with a very good socket on
it, hold the breaker bar against the frame, with the socket completely
covering the balancer bolt head. Then have your wife/girlfriend/helper turn
the key on and crank the engine ever so gently. As long as you haven't
disassembled the timing belt (which I don't think you have), you should be
ok. The goal is to use the starter to provide the turning force, whilst the
breaker bar does the work of turning the bolt. I've done that before and
it's worked. However, the air impact is the way to go, if you can.

Sad but true. You are your own best QA....

I distinctly remember the mark on the camshaft has to be pointing at the
mark on the sheetmetal pointer, and the mark on the crank has to be pointing
at it's index mark. If you are 180 out on the cam, then rotate the crank
another turn. Remember, the crank turns 2 times for every one camshaft
rotation, so if you're 180 out, then the crank needs to go around again. If
I remember right, the distributer is driven off the camshaft... so it is
matched to the cam.

I hope this helps. If need be, I'll go dig out my old Haynes manual for
you... let me know.
r/
Steve

Thomas, Isuzu sets the initial alignment with #4 cyl on TDC compression
stroke, not #1, thus the confusion.  If you rotate the crank 180 deg
you should find proper alignment.  Note that at this point the dist.
rotor will be pointing at the #4 spark plug wire's contact in the dist.
cap.

Regarding your crank bolt, I've used the breaker-bar-on-the-frame trick
many times and it's always busted the bolt right loose.  As you're
looking at the engine, the breaker bar would be over to the right,  or
driver's side, resting solidly on the frame.  You can also put a block
of wood between the bar and frame if you want to cushion it.  All you
have to do is 'bump' the key and it should bust that bolt right loose.

When you're doing the gasket replacement, check block/head for
straightness as a warped surface will cause problems.  Check for proper
placement of the dowel 'split' pins, one in front and one in back of
the block.  These locate the head and it'll jump around on the block if
they're not in place.  Given the 'high quality' repairs done to your
rig so far, it's certainly possible they left them out!

Chase out the head bolt holes in the block with a 12MMx1.50 tap,
this'll give consistent torques on the head bolts.  Holes full of crud
may not even tighten down fully and can cause a blown gasket.

Do use an Isuzu head gasket, not aftermarket, which are more prone to
blowing than the factory item.  www.stcharlesauto.com is a good source
of new parts, as is Isuzu Guru Jerry Lemond in Dacula, Georgia.  Jerry
was a factory rep and knows these critters inside and out!   Great guy
to deal with, too.   jlemond@bellsouth.net

Re-torque the head after 500 and 1000 miles, then do it with every
valve adjustment (10,000 mile intervals).  You'll have to do the KM
conversion, my brain ain't up to it tonite!!!

BTW there are several very active Isuzu groups on the 'net and you can
search past posts for more detailed answers to your difficulties:

http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/postlist.php?Cat=&Board=UBB68

http://forum.planetisuzoo.com/viewforum.php?f=1&sid=a223883c8feb4bb10b25d641f8cf703d

HTH............ed
'90 Trooper LS 3.4
'89 Spacecab 4X4 2.6
'89 Trooper RS 2.6
'89 Trooper LS 3.1