I have a late 1989 XJS that has been placed in in-door storage in
Southern California for the past 4 1/2 years. I plan on putting it back
on the road very soon- if it's viable. It's been left untouched and I
know it will take some work to get it running again. What problems/
issues should I expect?
Note, it was in exceptional shape when put into storage- 55,000 miles
and no problems. Since that time the tires have of course gone flat and
much dust has settled on it. I'm not so concerned w/ the tires- easy to
fix. I'm more concerned w/ the engine as it not been run all this time
and, upon examining it, I noticed that quite a bit of oil has leaked out
under it over time.
The challenge seems a bit overwhelming since, despite its good condition
and low mileage, the value of the car is not as high as it should be in
the Southern California market. What kind of $$$$ will be required to
get it road worthy again?
Any advice would be most appreciated.
Blake Dodson - 04 Apr 2005 18:32 GMT
Hello,
I am simply reposting a thread written a few years ago.
http://groups-beta.google.com/group/alt.autos.jaguar/msg/c38f56d3289a90c7
<Begin>
Well next time you attempt to start a car that has sat for years, I
would recommend the following before cranking - (Remember, I am
"retentive" and stuck in my ways. ;O))
1.Drain and replace the oil and filter, substituting 1qt motor oil
for 1qt Rislone/transmission fluid. (Oil gets contaminated with
moisture and may have begun to lose its lubricating properties and
begin to sludge. Rislone/transmission fluid is high detergent and will
quickly breakdown any sludge that will stick the rings/valves.)
2. Carefully remove wires from spark plugs, clean debris from around
the plugs, remove plugs and add one teaspoon of oil into each
cylinder. Insert new spark plugs, lightly, lightly oil threads.
3. Drain fuel tanks and add fresh fuel. (Fuel is most likely moisture
contaminated and is breaking down into varnish.)
4.Change fuel and air filters.
5.Wiggle, giggle, and clean all electrical connections in the engine
compartment. (Unplug, clean, reconnect.)
6.Disconnect the incoming fuel line to the fuel rails and purge the
fuel lines into a container. (Turn key to the on position (Not
start)and purge the old fuel/debris from the lines.) Repeat. Reconnect
fuel line.
7.Start engine and run until fully warm.
8.After 50+ miles, change oil and filter.
9.Pull plugs and perform a compression test. Re-install plugs.
10.Now you are ready to troubleshoot if needed.
NOTE: These engine distributors are notorious for cracking caps and
rotors which allow moisture into the mechanics. Inspect for damage and
a stuck advance mechanism.
<End>
HTH,
Blake
T.G. Lambach - 08 Apr 2005 06:43 GMT
Two aspects.
The start up and exit of the garage.
Restoration for regular use.
You can have the car trailered to a shop or start it yourself and slowly
and carefully drive it there. I'd do the latter, as follows:
Pump up the flat tires or, if worn replace them with new ones.
Install a new, fully charged battery.
Check the engine oil, coolant, power steering fluid, brake fluid and
transmission fluid. The levels may be low but don't bother topping up
unless level is below the dip sticks.
Some will suggest removing the spark plugs and squirting a bit of oil
into each cylinder. I doubt a shop would bother doing that (but might
charge for doing so). I'd rather remove the coil wire and crank the
engine with the starter for say 5 or 10 seconds to push some oil through
the engine. Then reconnect the coil wire and start it up. Don't race it,
just idle it and move it out of the garage and on to a shop.
It should be inspected for fluid leaks. All the fluids ought to be
changed - that's oil, oil filter, power steering fluid, coolant, brake
fluid and transmission fluid. The A/C may need a recharge. The fuel is
very stale and ought to be replaced. In lieu of draining an octane
booster may suffice, also add some fuel system cleaner. After a couple
of weeks' use the car should be completely normal.
There's nothing to dread, be methodical and rational and it will be fine.
Dan C - 09 Apr 2005 09:08 GMT
> I have a late 1989 XJS that has been placed in in-door storage in
> Southern California for the past 4 1/2 years. I plan on putting it back
[quoted text clipped - 15 lines]
>
> Any advice would be most appreciated.
Blake, T.G., thanks so much for your input as I'm sure the information
provided will prove helpful. Just one question though....... As it
relates to draining the fuel tank. I did take the step of adding a fuel
stabilizer to the tank prior to putting her in storage. Given the amount
of time that's passed would it still be advisable to drain the tank?
Thanks,
DC
T.G. Lambach - 09 Apr 2005 21:35 GMT
It was a good idea to add the fuel stabilizer to the fuel before storing
the car. I'd try it without draining the tank, the engine's performance
may be a bit sub par but you don't have the mess of the old fuel and its
subsequent disposal.
dlbowker@ehome.symphox.net - 01 May 2005 05:29 GMT
Gentlemen,
I have read your thread and have a quick question. I will be shipping my
1990 XJS (100,000 miles) to the Middle East. The shipping process will take
up to three months. I make sure my vehicle is fired up for 15 minutes twice
a week if not driven for at least that long. Should I consider a fuel
stabilizer before I put the car on the boat? Also, is there any other
advice you might be able to offer in readying the car for shipping?