86 xj6 again...
Has anyone had to deal with both gas tanks leaking?
It does not appear to be the seam but I swear the left tank is leaking gas
from the right tank.
I am having a fun day.
If water has been getting into the trunk then it is possible the tank
have begun to rot on their bottom sides. Remove the tanks and inspect
for corrosion.
DieInterim
I have the underpanel off on one side where the leak is most noticable.
Right now the right is leaking, but the left is the one I put the gas in!
hmmmm
anyways, maybe the cutover switch isnt cutting all the way, sitcking part
way maybe?
and on the leak, it appears to be the tank seam next to the drain and not
the drain.
I guess if I can drain all this fuel, I can seal the seam with fiberglass I
suppose.
or is the tank that easy to pull?
> 86 xj6 again...
> Has anyone had to deal with both gas tanks leaking?
> It does not appear to be the seam but I swear the left tank is leaking gas
> from the right tank.
>
> I am having a fun day.
Blake Dodson - 22 May 2005 18:44 GMT
I would buy some tank sealant. It is used in Aviation and has moved
into the automotive sector.
It is a 3 part system.
1st an acid etches the metal
2nd an acid neutralizer
3rd Is a polymer that coats the metal and fills holes. In the end
you'll have a plactic tank inside of the metal one!
LINK
http://www.prp-porstore.com/POR-15-Tank-Sealer-Instructions.html
Good Luck!
Blake
ed - 22 May 2005 21:36 GMT
thanks.
I am battling two problems at the same time.
I am about 2 bolts away I think from having the tank off.
The problem is the more gas I put in the right tank , the more the left tank
is getting and I have the tank switch hoses off in the trunk. I can only
presume there is a notehr connection somewhere between the tanks under the
trunk. I undid the fitting at the front of the left tank, and air sucked in,
then even more gas came out of the back hose unhooked from the switch in the
trunk.. Most confusing but I am undoing its mounts and we'll know soon
enough what the deal is.
> I would buy some tank sealant. It is used in Aviation and has moved
> into the automotive sector.
[quoted text clipped - 10 lines]
> Good Luck!
> Blake
ed - 23 May 2005 00:37 GMT
If anyone is keeping track., I found the issue with the fuel going from one
tank to the other and it appears it was a leaky cutover switch which I
bypassed. Now as for that tank which was no longer hooked up still blowing
out fuel and leaking at the seam etc., it must be residual fuel in the tank
and its being forced out when the tank presurizes while running on the good
tank. I gave up for the day on pulling the bad tank just so I could run it
on the good tank a while and go after this brake light issue.
> thanks.
>
[quoted text clipped - 22 lines]
> > Good Luck!
> > Blake
Blake Dodson - 23 May 2005 01:48 GMT
Ed,
My health is poor right now or I would try to be a better help.
Take the wire off of the brake switch and jumper them together. If you
still have no lights then you need to check the fuses, and although a
fuse my look good, its no guarantee it is.
If you take a Volt meter to the fuse and find its powered, then we are
getting somewhere. Usually it is the brake switch.
Cheers,
Blake
ed - 24 May 2005 23:05 GMT
I am getting like .2 volts at the switch on one of the wires and nothing on
the other.
My diagrams suggest this all hooks into the "bulb alarm" device.
Its a series III 1986 4.2L
I am taking a break tongiht.
I was all in my trunk last night looking at lamp alarm units to no avail.'
> Ed,
>
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
> Cheers,
> Blake
Andy Coles - 18 Aug 2005 09:39 GMT
Hi Ed
Sorry to read about your leaking fuel tank. Blake is right, if you want to
be sure of doing a good job without any potential hitsches then try and find
some proprietary tank sealant. Better still try and source an alternative
tank from a scrapper.
Having said that :-
I have repaired two tanks with that fibreglass strand/resin mix that you can
buy from any car part shop. Once was on an old Honda motorbike witha
pressed steel tank that had simply rotted at the base and the other was on a
top seam on a Volvo 340.
The KEY to success and this is absolutely CRUCIAL if you go the fiberglass
strand/resin route is that the tank must be absolutely clean and above all
there must be NO petrol (even vapour) around the effected area. The
slightest hint and the resin will simply drop off. It will look ok at first
but all you will need to do is flick it with your finger nail and off it
comes. Make sure there is plenty of overlap past the effected area and put
an extra coat on just for good measure.
Andy
>I am getting like .2 volts at the switch on one of the wires and nothing on
> the other.
[quoted text clipped - 16 lines]
>> Cheers,
>> Blake