A couple of thoughts.
Perhaps your battery is getting a bit old. I let my '88 sit for the past
3 weeks and it started right up with no hesitation.
The radios sold as original equipment in OZ are different than the ones
sold in the US -- I believe. Ours came standard with Citizen's Band Radio
channel 19 built right in. '88 was the height of the CB radio trucker craze
in the US.
The CPS sensor is in the front of the engine and is mounted with a 5mm
Allen screw. It sits above the Crankshaft pulley atop a toothed gear. You
should be able to find the connector by the wing and then trace the wire to
the sensor. It is just below the Power Assist pump on the front of the
engine. Trace the hose from the middle of the Green reservoir to the engine
and then go down. It reads the spinning of the engine and sends a signal
to the computer to tell the plugs when to fire. You CAN NOT determine if
these sensors are good or not by taking electrical readings or resistance
readings. I keep a spare in the boot at all times -- just in case.
If worse comes to worse on the Bulb warning, you can make it go away by
simply snipping the pink/slate wire to the Bulb Warning Module. This is the
sensor and snipping it will make the computer warning system think all is
OK. Re-soldering did the trick on mine, however.
What part of OZ are you in?
Webserve
Hi Webserve
Thanks for this *very* useful info!
> A couple of thoughts.
> Perhaps your battery is getting a bit old. I let my '88 sit for the past
> 3 weeks and it started right up with no hesitation.
Yes, I originally used it about once a week for a long run. No problem. But
when I was ill I did not move the car for months. That's probably the reason.
I've found my old notes that showed that I had researched this before (I had
forgotten) and the UK advised me that 40 mA is normal for the model. It was 120
mA but I found that was due to an aftermarket alarm, which I promptly removed.
An interesting aside - a problem with digital multimeters. When I connected a
digital ammeter in line with the battery (not attempting to start the car, mind
you! other readers DO NOT TRY THIS) the readings were very erratic - in fact
unreadable. When I put in an AVO model 8 analogue meter, I could clearly see
the problem. The quiescent current was about 40 mA, as I've said, but
superimposed on that was the pulsing of the clock (a few microamps). Could
clearly see it with the analogue meter needle movement. By the way, the previous
owner (before my *first* purchase <g>) suffered from flat batteries, but with
the aid of a meter I soon found that the boot light was not going out when the
boot was closed. Fixed that by bending a bracket slightly, I think. (Or was
that on my previous series III "poverty pack" - ie no cruise control or sun roof
and pepperpot wheels?).
> The radios sold as original equipment in OZ are different than the ones
> sold in the US -- I believe. Ours came standard with Citizen's Band Radio
> channel 19 built right in. '88 was the height of the CB radio trucker craze
> in the US.
No takers in the group for this problem? All I want is the sequence of
keystrokes - I've got the codes. Is there another XJ40 newsgroup?
> The CPS sensor is in the front of the engine and is mounted with a 5mm
> Allen screw. It sits above the Crankshaft pulley atop a toothed gear. You
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
> these sensors are good or not by taking electrical readings or resistance
> readings. I keep a spare in the boot at all times -- just in case.
*Very useful indeed* I'll buy one and keep it as a spare at least. Is
replacing it fairly straightforward? Another poster has also suggested a cause
of this cutting out problem, and I'll probably experiment with this.
> If worse comes to worse on the Bulb warning, you can make it go away by
> simply snipping the pink/slate wire to the Bulb Warning Module. This is the
> sensor and snipping it will make the computer warning system think all is
> OK.
Rather not do that as I think the actual warning function is very useful for
safety (the main reason why I want to get rid of the false warning). I have a
very vivid memory of being in a 420 I had (another beautiful car) and signaling
to turn right on a busy highway. The lady behind me completely ignored my
signal and tried to crowd me out. At last, with a defiant blink, I pulled
across, only to be greeted with a raucous blast of her horn. I discovered
afterwards that my right blinker bulb had blown! She was never getting the
signal! Another day, my son and a friend were leaving the house and happened to
briefly slow down after setting off, only there was no lighting of brake lamps.
Concerned for their safety I frantically signalled in their mirror for them to
stop. We found *both* brake lights had blown!
> Re-soldering did the trick on mine, however.
I'll try that.
> What part of OZ are you in?
I'm just north of Sydney, in the area known as the Northern Beaches. About to
move up to Port Stephens, just north of Newcastle. I came from the Surrey in
the UK about 25 years ago.
I really shouldn't risk owning a Jag now - being an impecunious pensioner (all
contributions gratefuly received <g>). I fact I'm hanging out for Tuesday. I
just repurchased this Jag, as I've explained, and have badgered the (short time)
owner as to why on earth he wants to sell (there's always a reason). He says
the only thing wrong is the climate control (probably electric and I'll try to
fix, or will leave windows open and put up with it!) but I'm hoping he's not
aware of some other problem which he's hiding from me. By Tuesday the cheque
will have cleared so he has no motive to conceal anything then. Then I'll ask
him again . Hoping I don't get really bad news then! Will duly report later...
Cheers
Alan
First things first, I suppose, but the next small problem is the washer bottle
leaking, also quickly generating a fault lamp. Any experience with this one?
I'm sure I replaced it before but the problem is back and may be a fault with eg
the seal? All I remember is, the bottle comes in two parts.
Alan