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Car Forum / Jaguar Cars / September 2005Jag's driver's door remains locked yet.
Can't someone help me on this as it is rough crawling over the console from the passenger's door. > Can't someone help me on this as it is rough crawling over the console from > the passenger's door. I don't own a series 3 sedan, but here's my guess. The door may not actually be "locked", perhaps the latch mechanism is not being tripped by the door handles. In any event... Your easiest way out may be to hire a locksmith. Basically, you need someone with experience using a "slim Jim" to trip the mechanism inside the door, at the latch. The locksmith may or may not be successful, meaning the money spent may be lost. Once you get the door open, you'll need to take the door panels off and find the source of the problem and repair it (and properly adjust it) before attempting to close that door again. More than likely a linkage between the door handle or the lock button and the latch has become separated, bent, broken, or in bad need of adjustment, or a broken door handle assembly... because if it were an electric solenoid problem, the manual lock button would still work. Use a rod (the same diameter as the bolt on the door frame) to test and adjust the latch linkages before you ever attempt to close the door, even without the door trim installed. Do not re-install the inner door trim until you know the door latch and lock are working and properly adjusted. The only other method I can think of is to find/purchase another door panel that matches yours, then cut/destroy yours to get the existing panel out of the way so you can see the latch mechanisms (you may need to remove the driver's seat, and by necessity, the passenger seat in order to remove the driver's seat). Of course you could also cut a hole in the outside door skin to gain access, but then you'd be into welding and repainting the exterior. What kind of freaky answer is that? Get a grip, your methods come from the stone age. >> Can't someone help me on this as it is rough crawling over the console >> from [quoted text clipped - 27 lines] > door skin to gain access, but then you'd be into welding and repainting > the exterior. Seems to me that most 12 year old car thiefs could get into your drivers door in about 15 seconds flat or even quicker so it can't be that hard, more a matter of technique (which I do not profess to know). However had to get into my Datsun many many years ago and the nice man from the AA used a haxksaw blade with a notch cut in it, slid it down between the glass and door skin and bob was his uncle. Andy > What kind of freaky answer is that? Get a grip, your methods come from the > stone age. [quoted text clipped - 30 lines] >> outside door skin to gain access, but then you'd be into welding and >> repainting the exterior. > Seems to me that most 12 year old car thiefs could get into your drivers > door in about 15 seconds flat or even quicker so it can't be that hard, more [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > the AA used a haxksaw blade with a notch cut in it, slid it down between the > glass and door skin and bob was his uncle. The "hacksaw blade with a notch" is essentially what is called a "slim jim". It's purpose is normally to "pop" the lock so that the door handle can be used to open the door. It does the same thing that you do when you manually raise/turn/press a lock plunger/knob/button on the inside of a car door. When used by someone who knows what they are doing (ie, they have knowledge of the lock setup on that kind of car) it works fine on a locked car with a working lock & latch mechanism; it may or may not work on a car with broken lock or latch mechanisms. > Andy > [quoted text clipped - 32 lines] >>>outside door skin to gain access, but then you'd be into welding and >>>repainting the exterior. Well, blow me down, learn something new each day. >> Seems to me that most 12 year old car thiefs could get into your drivers >> door in about 15 seconds flat or even quicker so it can't be that hard, [quoted text clipped - 50 lines] >>>>in the outside door skin to gain access, but then you'd be into welding >>>>and repainting the exterior. > What kind of freaky answer is that? Get a grip, your methods come from the > stone age. ...and your modern method is?????? I gave him the preferred way AND the stone age way. The net of it is that the latch isn't tripping; and if manipulating the lock either electrically or manually from the (inside or outside) exterior of the door isn't allowing the door handle latch mechanism to work, and/or the door handles (inside and outside) don't trip the latch, it may or may not be the lock, it could be the latch or latch linkage. The net of it is that he has to find a way to manipulate the latch with the door closed; that's done with a slim jim, by someone who knows how to do it (just like a thief would do it), ie, an experienced locksmith. It's not a job for an amateur. If the latch linkage is broken, it will be difficult even for an expert to use a slim jim to open the door, because that tool is normally used by thieves to get inside a car with a WORKING lock/latch mechanism. If a slim jim is not successful, what's left but to destroy something to get inside the door (to either manipulate the mechanism or to remove the door hinges)??? Just a thought but it may be cheaper to go in via the inner door panel rather than the outer metal skin. At least easier to change I suspect and probably cheaper to obtain a replacement from a scrappie (colour match?). >> What kind of freaky answer is that? Get a grip, your methods come from >> the stone age. [quoted text clipped - 14 lines] > what's left but to destroy something to get inside the door (to either > manipulate the mechanism or to remove the door hinges)??? > Can't someone help me on this as it is rough crawling over the console from > the passenger's door. Whats happening ? does the key work when its turned can you feel any resistance?? when you use the handle is there any resistance??? it is the lock or handle thats not working????? the barrel lock has a small lever which faces towards the back of the door. this lever has a rod connected to the lock mechanism lever - the lever off the lock mechanism faces towards the outer door skin. next there is a rod down from the door handle to the lock mechanism. both the levers on the lock mechanism face towards the door skin. both rods have plastic bushes to hold them in place. More details required I have been driving my 88 without a driver door handle for over a month.....so I see the mechanisms every day every time..I can reach the WHITE latch with my finger enough to open the door through the outer opening..A locksmith can get to this or even someone who has tripped a door before..I don't think a Slim Jim could get to it with enough pressure to open without bending or slipping off, it would have to be a harder material or rod...just my two cents... being an older post, this has probably been resolved I would hope.. >> Can't someone help me on this as it is rough crawling over the console >> from [quoted text clipped - 15 lines] > > More details required We are all busy doing out little bit for dvjag but it might help if the dialogue was two way. > I have been driving my 88 without a driver door handle for over a > month.....so I see the mechanisms every day every time..I can reach the [quoted text clipped - 25 lines] >> >> More details required |
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