Hi everybody im new to this game so here goes....
I recently bought my first Jaguar, after hankering after one for years.
Drove it 300 miles from where I'd bought it to home.
Car has certified LPG system fitted, single point injection type.
There are 3 main problems
Low compression on 4 and 5 (prob head gasket gone between cylinders? Is
this common?
I'm not to botherd about this as I've been working on classic sports
cars for years (Lotus' etc)
The second problem is the noise coming from the someware near the back
of the car, sounds like a howling gail (swooshy type of noise!) from a
distance and is audiuble from very low speeds under all acceleration
conditions. I'm know these cars suffer from weak diffs, but is it just
the bearings that go? Or does the crownwheel and pinion wear?. She's
got 130k on the clock.
The third prob is a vibration that occours when the car reaches
45-50mph and changes into top gear (sports box). Its quite bad, but as
speed increases it lessens to nearly bearable at 90mph.
I know the box locks up in top gear so that drive is transmitted
without slip through the torque converter, could it be somthing to do
with this part of the box? I've no experience with this type of
box...HELP!!!
JimInsolo - 21 Mar 2006 15:03 GMT
Check for a radial tire with a seperating belt- I spent months on my 450SL
looking for the noise I thought was rear end or wheel bearings until I put
new tires on and it all disappeared.
> Hi everybody im new to this game so here goes....
>
[quoted text clipped - 24 lines]
> with this part of the box? I've no experience with this type of
> box...HELP!!!
old man - 21 Mar 2006 16:02 GMT
You'll find the cars differ;
Lotus use rubber bands, jaguar have grunt
A diff / wheel bearing noise would usually change with road speed and/or
accel/descel
> Hi everybody im new to this game so here goes....
>
[quoted text clipped - 24 lines]
> with this part of the box? I've no experience with this type of
> box...HELP!!!
Mr Smooth - 21 Mar 2006 16:26 GMT
I'm looking forward to the WALL OF TORQUE! Once the heads sorted, at
the mo it wouldn't pull the skin off a rice pudding!
Pretty sure its not wheel bearing as all is quiet under
deceleration/coasting and cornering.
Do diff bearing kits generally sort this type of sound as I wouldn't
describe it as a whine, more a swirly windy noise which comes and goes
with the accelerator? I know that sounds silly!!
Got the wiff of EP diff oil the other day.... So its probably empty!
Any thoughts on the nasty vibration I've got?
I'll have a look on friday, get it on the ramps etc
webserve - 21 Mar 2006 17:00 GMT
Some probable answers to your questions:
1. Low compression means you are most likely loosing the head gasket. VERY
common problem for these cars stating at around 100,000 miles. While you
are in there you should also put in seals on the exhaust valves. The AJ6
engine is canted at an angle so as it grows older it starts to "puff" blue
smoke on start-up. Not a big deal and easily "fixed" when the head gasket is
changed out.
2. Chances are VERY good that the differential bearings on the car are
going/gone. Jaguar made a major mistake on the design of these bearings
when they went from taper bearings to large ball bearings. Lift the rear of
the car and slide under. Then, whilst watching where the axle goes into the
differential, watch as a buddy "rocks" the tyre back and forth on the 6 and
12 o'clock position. If the stub axle bearing is the problem, you will see
the axle moving in and out of the differential. Again this is a MOST common
problem with these cars.
3. Finally, the chances are the shuddering is being caused by the Jurid
connection on the end of the drive shaft. This is a big rubber donut that
connects the drive shaft tot he differential flange. When they start to
deteriorate, the drive shaft starts to slip off center and thus the
"shudder" By The Way, chances are also that you will not be able to tell it
is going by looking at it. Again, this is a VERY common problem with the
XJ40.
Everything you have mentioned are common problems and easily repaired with a
bit of common sense and patience and a bit of money. Head gasket and
related runs about $600 USD. Stub axle bearings and related run about $65
per side (do both sides) and I forget what the Jurid costs but I believe it
is under $100.
Cheers
Webserve
> Hi everybody im new to this game so here goes....
>
[quoted text clipped - 24 lines]
> with this part of the box? I've no experience with this type of
> box...HELP!!!
pottsy - 21 Mar 2006 17:06 GMT
hiya,
Looks like you'll be pulling the head off then, not tricky.
Had the same sort of noise from the back end of my x300 and was told it
would be the diff. Stuck it on the ramp and raised the back end, switched
off the traction control and ran the speed up while the sucker, sorry, chief
spanner twirler stood underneath and listened. Turned out to be a wheel
bearing, which incidentally had no excess play in it at all to give away the
fact that it was 4kt.
Good luck with your 1st cat.
m
Chris Halpin - 21 Mar 2006 19:04 GMT
> hiya,
>
[quoted text clipped - 10 lines]
>
> m
The vibration occurring at 50mph may be a drive shaft universal.
These tend to seize after a while.
Blake Dodson - 21 Mar 2006 22:04 GMT
Another common issue concerning driveline vibration is the transmission
mount. These are notorious for getting weak and allowing the trans. to
gyrate slightly.
When you remove the cylinderhead look at the head surface closely as it
is prone to decay if the coolant is not changed regularly. Sometimes
the decay is so extensive you will need another head.
The output shaft bearings have been talked about in this thread and is
truly the typical culprit in rear ends, however the only true way to
check them is to remove them from the side of the differential and
physically check them. Rocking the tire back and forth may be
misleading as I have seen many that were incorrectly shimmed and
allowed the bearing to actually slide within the differetial case. Its
almost like the assemblers had no standards.
DieInterim
Mr Smooth - 22 Mar 2006 09:03 GMT
Wow!, great responce from every one thanks alot for all the advice,
I'll have a look at all these possibilities over the next few days.
I'm still not convinced about the vibration though, as you can
accelerate to any speed you like as long as the gearbox doesn't get
into top, as soon as this happens i get the vibration.
I'll enderver to locate it with your comments in mind.
Cheers
Mr smooth
Mr Smooth - 27 Mar 2006 09:03 GMT
I had a look at the car over the weekend and tried to ID some of the
probs.
1: The diff is plastered in oil and there are signs of it flinging out
from the input and outputs, I put a small amount of oil in the diff
(1/2 a pint was all i had) and this wasn't enough to fill it. I think
its nearly empty!
2: Ran the car in D on stands and the noise from the diff was very
loud. Its much louder on part throttle than full. Also the pitch of the
main noise doesn't seem the vary with road speed.
Then I tried spinning both wheels at the same time in N, one hand on
each with my head by the diff and I could hear it then! Obviously at a
reduced level. And I can tell the diff from the brake disc rub.
Got my dad to give the wheels a rock @ the 1/2 12 position on both
sides, small amount of movement on both, less than 1/2mm or 1/32inch.
Of course if this 'is' bearing movement then they are knackerd.
Very small amount of vertical play on the input shaft, nothing that a
new seal couldn't cope with.
I don't want to change the bearings to find that the diff is knackerd.
This noise is bad , sounds like its grinding its self to bits..
I'll drain the oil and see if any bits come out.
By the way it is NOT a power lock diff
On to the vibration.....
Is it something to do with the overdrive top?, At 54 mph the box
changes gear and instantly there is a bad vibration, I can even
see/feel it thru the steering wheel. The drop in RPM from 4th to ODrive
is small around 200 RPM @ 2000RPM. Is this normal? Could this be sticky
plates in the box? (No idea about autos).
On the other hand I grabbed the tail of the box and pushed up pulled
down, the box moved miles!(more than 20mm-3/4in) really easy/smooth
with no damping. I know there is a spring and rubber isolators, so is
this normal? There was no contact at any time when moving the box.
Any thoughts? Or should I take it to the vets.....