I've not specifically replaced the bulbs, but I've had the instrument
panel out. It's not that difficult to get to, but does need some
disassembly.

Start off by extending the steering column and putting it into it's
lowest position (if you've got the memory one, turn the auto bit off so
it stays in that position once you take the key out), then disconnect
the battery (make sure you have your radio code).

Now you need to pull off the wooden trim that surrounds the instruments.
Take the centre one (around the airvents and clock) off first. These
just pull straight off. You can gently prise them out - they are
actually veneer on a metal backing plate, so it won't snap. They are
held in by four clips, one at each corner. These clips just grip four
lugs on the panel, making it a tight friction fit - you don't have to do
anything other than pull straight out. Try using a flat tool under one
lower corner of the centre panel to get it moving. I know this part is
extremely worrying the first time you do it!

With that out of the way, the panel around the instrument console is
easier to pull off just using your fingers.

Next, the fog lamp and trip computer switches need to be removed. Just
pull these out then unplug them.

There are four very obvious philips screws to undo to remove the black
plastic shroud in front of the instruments. Next you'll see two
multi-way connectors at the bottom of the instrument panel. These have a
plastic latch on them that you swing across to release them and push the
connector out of the socket. Tuck the connectors under the instruments
(trying your best to ignore the Ford logo on them!), and the panel will
then slide out.

Hopefully it should then be obvious how to get at the lamps.

In the best Haynes manual tradition, re-assembly is the reverse of
disassembly :-) Officially you should also replace the metal clips that
secure the fascia panels, I didn't and have had no problems.

It isn't difficult, just a little worrying the first time you pull that
lovely walnut off your car...

Matt