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Car Forum / Jaguar Cars / May 2006Rear Pivot Bearings and Hubs - '87 XJ6
I am almost ready to bring my 87 XJ to a mechanic to replace pivot bearings (there is noticable play in both rear wheels and I can see the pivot shafts are loose). He says this is about a 7 hour job, but could end up costing more if the hubs are no good. How can this be discerened and what is entailed in parts and labor if they are bad as well? He estimates a $500 for pivot bearings if the hubs are ok! Thanks, Barry Barry, I see you got some proper answers from jag-lovers. They explain it about as well as can be. It is an easy job at a very low cost. The only foreseeable problem would be if the aluminum in the hub was out of round. I have replaced the bearings on both my 1967 Jag and my 1988 XJ40 (nearly identical) and neither had a hub problem. I doubt you will find you have a problem. Just replace it all the same way it came out -- but with new bearings. Webserve > I am almost ready to bring my 87 XJ to a mechanic to replace > pivot bearings (there is noticable play in both rear wheels [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > > Barry Thanks for the the advice. Jag-Lovers is obviously THE place for answers. Sometimes I feel there is a big disconnect between the Haynes manual (4- step remove and replace), the mechanics (7 hours) and the Jag enthusiasts (It's easy and inexpensive). Do you really just do as the responder to my Jag-Lovers post says - remove shaft, races, turn the hub and repeat, then replace? What about the issue of adjusting (floating?) the new bearings? I tend to want as much info. as possible, so thanks for your patience. A couple of things. If you are intending to do work on your XJ40, you need to get the service manual CD from JDHT. It runs about $26 including shipping from the UK and it is MUCH more detailed (in most areas) than the Haynes. Most of the stuff on these cars IS easy and inexpensive. When I bought my XJ40, I needed a new steering rack. The local independent guy quoted me $1500 for a re-built rack completely installed. I bought a re-built with a lifetime warranty for $250 (at the time), it took 45 minutes to swap the units out and another $59.00 for a front end alignment. Total cost: $309.00 I can go on and on. When it comes to repairs, these are well designed cars. Some of the basic designs, however are flawed. For some reason, Jaguar switched from tapered bearings to huge ball bearings for the differential -- a bad decision. On the pivot bearings, if you replace everything in the same order -- you will be fine. Unfortunately, I can't at this moment give any more specs since one of my Jag buddies has my CD and Haynes to do some repairs on his car. If I remember correctly, it is a matter of tightening it all down tight to seat the bearings and then backing the nuts off slightly to create free spin without free play. Webserve > Thanks for the the advice. Jag-Lovers is obviously THE place for > answers. Sometimes I feel there is a big disconnect between the Haynes [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > the issue of adjusting (floating?) the new bearings? I tend to want as > much info. as possible, so thanks for your patience. I hear you. Just to clarify, my car is a Series III. My gut is the same as yours about tightening, then backing off for free play, but others have talked about ruining the bearings from incorrect adjustment. My lack of funds for paying a mechanic may necessitate taking this on myself. A friend has the Jaguar service manual which I will borrow. Assuming the XK40 and SIII XJ6 have the same pivot bearing design, are there any issues, tips or tools I should know about? Thanks! Barry Actually, Your SIII XJ6 and my 1967 420 are much more similar than your 1987 XJ6 and my 1988 XJ6 (XJ40). Your SIII has the inboard brakes as does my 420 and I believe the hubs are interchangeable -- unlike the '88 which has the brakes attached to the outside of the hubs. There really are no special tools or tricks to this. Most of it is common sense. Like wheel bearings, I tighten them up to seat them then back the nut off. The same should be done in your case. Once it is done and you think it is all back together again -- drive it around the block and then pull the wheels and check it. If all seems OK then drive the car for a week and pull the wheels again to check. Then at one month. If all seems OK at that point, you should be OK and you will need to inspect them when you take off the wheels every 3-4 months to repair something else. (Did I say that out loud??) If you have the service manual that it will most likely give you the torque tightening pressures so you will need a torque wrench. Some thing you should probably have anyway if you intend to do work on your car. Make sure you get the wrench in metric or standard -- which ever the SIII is. I really don't know which yours is since my 420 is standard and my XJ6 is metric. Webserve > I hear you. Just to clarify, my car is a Series III. My gut is the > same as yours about tightening, then backing off for free play, but [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > > Barry Now I have the Jaguar Service Manual and the Haynes Manual. The Jag manual is actually not as helpful. One thing I am trying to determine is if I have to remove the hub carrier just to do the pivot bearings. It appears I can just move the wishbone out of the way, or move the hub carrier out of the way (I'm just looking at manuals as it is pouring rain today). The guy I borrowed the service manual has an 85 SIII and an original XK-120 with full spats over the rear wheels! This guy is the real deal - even played his bagpipes at the last car show... Barry Barry, You have made me bring out the manuals since it has been a while since I did this. I am assuming the rear hub on the S3 is the same as the 420. I believe you can replace the bearings by slipping the hub clear of the wishbone. Personally, however, I would pull the 1/2 shaft free and remove the hub to inspect the wheel bearings while you are at it. I am a firm believer that if you have to pull it apart anyway, you might as well check everything else while you are there. Webserve > Now I have the Jaguar Service Manual and the Haynes Manual. The Jag > manual is actually not as helpful. [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > > Barry Am I correct I would need a hub puller? LOL!! It depends on the conditions of your hubs!! On the 420 -- it took a torch and a 5 ton press to get the 1/2 axles out of the hub. On the '88 -- the 1/2 axles simply slid right out. It all depends upon how long it has been since the 1/2 axles were out of the hubs. With a 1987 -- I would think the axle would slide right out of the hub with the gentle persuasion of that universal Jaguar tool -- the rubber mallet -- but one never knows with a Jaguar!!! Webserve > Am I correct I would need a hub puller? |
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