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Car Forum / Jaguar Cars / June 2006

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This stuff... Nu-Finish

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toofas - 24 Jun 2006 21:25 GMT
Hello,

Background:
I own a 1994 Saab 900s.  As it is 12 years old, the paint (White)
isn't that lustrious, but it is still paint (I.E. No rust, oxidation,
etc.).  In spots it doesn't seem to have much gloss as if the clear
coat has worn off, but I don't know anything about paint/clearcoats
really.  I bought this Nu-Finish stuff (orange bottle) to try to help
the vehicle look a little better.  I used it last weekend and it
seemed to help overall.  As advertised, water beeds way more than it
did and the overall appearance is better.  Obviously not show room,
but definitely better.  The bottle recommends a second coat after 30
days and then you're good for a year.

Concern:
When applying this stuff, my rag turned whitish-gray.  This indicated
to me that paint was being removed from the vehicle.  The bottle says
it is safe for clearcoats, so if it removes a layer of paint then: 1-
how does it "protect" and allow water beeding?  Can it simultaneously
strip and lay protection?  If so, then... 2- Does that mean that if I
had good clearcoat over the entire car that my rag would not have been
saturated in paint, thus just removing a layer of clearcoat?

Main question/point:
I own a 2002 Jaguar X-Type.  As it is only four years old, the paint
(British Racing Green)  is decent.  When washed, the vehicle shines
rather well, but does have some swirl marks and scratches.  I would
like to improve the shine it has after washing, but I am concerned
about using this Nu-Finish stuff given the results I have with the
Saab.

Summary:
The result of using Nu-Finish on my Saab is positive, but I attribute
that to it being 12 years old with a lack-luster finish.  I would like
to improve my four year old Jaguar's finish, but I am concerned about
damaging it using this product.  I am rather ignorant about finishes
and caring for them, so if you choose to reply with
answers/suggestions, please take nothing for granted and assuming I
know nothing about the subject... somewhat like a "Nu-Finish for
Dummies."  I hope I've come accross clear enough, if not, please ask
specific questions and I will answer them directly.

Thanks,

toofas
WayneC - 24 Jun 2006 22:21 GMT
> Hello,
>
[quoted text clipped - 41 lines]
>
> toofas
The short answer is that any time you are trying to make an oxidized
finish shiny
or remove scratches, etc, you are removing paint, the only question being
how MUCH paint.... you only want to use as aggressive an abrasive product
or method as is necessary. Do some searches using Google and you'll
likely find
a lot of information.

Here's an example:
 http://www.properautocare.com/remscratwitp.html
Whereas that tutorial is aimed at use of a specific polishing tool, the
process
is the same whether you use a tool as an aid, or if you do it entirely
by hand.

Here's a link with Q & A on using Nu-Finish:
  http://www.nufinish.com/faq.html
R. Frist - 24 Jun 2006 23:04 GMT
> > toofas
> The short answer is that any time you are trying to make an oxidized
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
> likely find
> a lot of information.

As Wayne says anything you rub on a car is going to remove a bit of
finish.  I have used Nu-Finish since reading a Consumer's Report
comparison about 20 years ago.  At that time it was rated high because
the finish removal was minimal.  I am sure by now there are equivalent
or better products.
WayneC - 24 Jun 2006 22:27 GMT
PS, the latest rage is using a "clay bar" to clean the surface before
getting any more aggressive
with cleaners and polishing products. I haven't yet tried it yet, but I
intend to:

http://www.autopia-carcare.com/inf-clay.html
Bill Jackson - 25 Jun 2006 02:43 GMT
I used a clay bar on my '03 9-5 last weekend and it was well worth the
effort.  It's surprising how much "smoother" and better looking the finish
is.

I'd recommend it, just don't know how often I'm going to go for all that
work.

On 6/24/06 5:27 PM, in article 129rbhv5b4vvg7a@corp.supernews.com, "WayneC"

> PS, the latest rage is using a "clay bar" to clean the surface before
> getting any more aggressive
> with cleaners and polishing products. I haven't yet tried it yet, but I
> intend to:
>
> http://www.autopia-carcare.com/inf-clay.html
Craig's Saab C900 Site - 25 Jun 2006 09:13 GMT
>I used a clay bar on my '03 9-5 last weekend and it was well worth the
>effort.  It's surprising how much "smoother" and better looking the finish
>is.

Is a clay bar really clay? Often wondered...

They seem to be one of the best ways to deal with removal of sap and other
substances from paintwork though as you've found there's a lot of elbow
grease involved. Get fit and clean your car at the same time! 8-)

Craig.
Signature

Craig's Saab C900 Page at      | Craig's Classic Saab Workshop - Sydney .au
http://lios.apana.org.au/~c900 | http://www.classicsaab.net and other URL's
Email: c900@lios.apana.org.au  | For Saab 99/C900/9000 Enthusiasts World-Wide!
Alternate: saabonaut@gmail.com | Web-forums, galleries, library, links, etc.

WayneC - 25 Jun 2006 17:23 GMT
>> I used a clay bar on my '03 9-5 last weekend and it was well worth the
>> effort.  It's surprising how much "smoother" and better looking the finish
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
>
> Craig.

  http://tinyurl.com/erolr
- Bob - - 25 Jun 2006 19:04 GMT
>   http://tinyurl.com/erolr

I much prefer this site: www.properautocare.com  Lots of helpful info
for the newbie.

Personally, I find that a good swirl remover (like 3M's) used to
polish the car before hand does a whole lot more than a clay bar. Clay
bars do nothing to remove oxidized finish. If you car is older and/or
not clear coated you will need one of the more aggressive compounds,
#m and other's have a slew.

Polish first, then wax. It's all in the prep. For final finish, I like
to use Klasse. Outstanding shine and durability.
 
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