We're going to try and get our 64 XKE 3.8 OTS running after sitting for a
number of years. Car hasn't been on the road since about 1999, and it still
ran up until about two years ago. Up until around 2002 it would run fine,
then slowly over the next couple years it would start but die right away if
you took your foot off the gas pedal, it also started making an ugly noise
from the top of the engine like the lifters weren't getting enough
lubrication even though the oil pressure was normal on the gauge. The last
time we tried to start it was probably two summers ago.
Obviously I think the problem was with bad fuel and the entire fuel system
now has probably been gummed up. We're going to start cleaning that out at
the fuel filter, replace the filter, replace the fuel lines that lead to the
carbs, take the carbs apart and clean them, drain the fuel tank and replace
with fresh gas. Anything else I'm missing?
Also, for a car that has been sitting for roughly the last seven or eight
years, what else should we be doing in preparation to get it running again?
I've read on ferrarichat.com that a lot of people suggest putting a little
marvel mystery oil down each cylinder to help with lubrication and alleviate
any rust or corrosion.
Thanks for any more tips and suggestions that can be offered. Hopefully we
can get in running without having to turn it over to professional help.
.
Don Young - 07 Sep 2006 03:29 GMT
> We're going to try and get our 64 XKE 3.8 OTS running after sitting for a
> number of years. Car hasn't been on the road since about 1999, and it
[quoted text clipped - 25 lines]
> Thanks for any more tips and suggestions that can be offered. Hopefully we
> can get in running without having to turn it over to professional help.
The increasingly rough running and upper engine noise in an unused engine
are very typical of sticking valves. A compression check would likely show
low compression on some cylinders. I would remove the valve cover and squirt
some type of penetrating oil on each valve stem. Also squirt a little into
each spark plug hole. Fill the crankcase and new filter with fresh oil with
a dose of valve/lifter solvent. Turn the engine over with the plugs out to
distribute the oil. Another compression check would let you know if the
situation has improved.
After cleaning the fuel system (it should not be necessary to replace the
lines) the car should start with a lot of blue smoke out the exhaust. Do not
rev the motor any more than necessary to keep it running or you may cause
damage due to a stuck open valve hitting a piston.. After a bit of running,
it should steady out on all cylinders. You can squirt some light oil into
the intake while running to help lubricate the valve stems. You may
experience some spark plug fouling during this time. If so, just clean them
as necessary until you get it firing good on all cylinders. Avoid the urge
to rev it real fast to "clear it out". Free working valves, clean spark
plugs, and a good fuel supply will do the job.
Don Young
David Wilson - 08 Sep 2006 19:38 GMT
Points:
-- You might find the clutch is stuck. (Try it by pushing the car in
second gear, then see if the clutch disengages. Be brutal!)
-- It'll be worth putting a pressure bleeder on the brakes (hire one - quite
cheap) and changing all the brake fluid by flushing it through.
--You'll probably find the t(i)yres have got flat spots at the bottom, so
it's worth putting an extra few pounds in them until the lumpiness goes
away. (Unless they've gone all hard and cracked, in which case you need new
ones).
(If you can't get it running, put it on a ferry and I'll give you ten
dollars for it!) <g>
Remember that every part that falls off it is of finest English
manufacture........
David
> We're going to try and get our 64 XKE 3.8 OTS running after sitting for a
> number of years. Car hasn't been on the road since about 1999, and it still
[quoted text clipped - 21 lines]
>
> .
oldjag - 09 Sep 2006 05:11 GMT
Many times noise from the top end or front of Jag 3.8L or 4.2L is not
the tappets or the valve , but a loose upper or lower timing chain.
This will eventually jump time and you will have a much more expensive
problem with bent valves or a holed piston. With the carbs right, a
good starter, good ignition etc. this motor will start in half a
revolution. That said valves can stick on rare occasions, but putting
oil on the valve stems on this engine is impossble without removing the
cams and tappets. Try cranking the engine over with the plugs out
after squirting a small amount of light oil in each cylinder. This
will also fill the head with oil and lube the tappets. Next put in the
plugs and try cranking. Note if the cranking note is even, ie. the
speed drop you hear as each cylinder hits compression should sound
about the same. If not stop trying to start it, and find out why one
or more cylinders is low on compression. If the cranking note is even,
make sure you have good spark and fuel to the carbs. Many times on old
jags with stock ignition the spark may be a little to weak to fire if
the mixture is a bit off, You can help it out by pulling the plugs
boots partly off the plugs until the engine is idling. Pulling the
boots partly off creates a series gap which can actually help the plugs
fire in a borderline situation.
Dave - 06 Oct 2006 14:21 GMT
Check to see if the internals of the carburetors are free to move or
not. The "pistons" (or whatever you call them) were stuck on mine. You
can check by removing the air intake shroud and inserting a finger into
the carb throat. Push the piston upwards - it should move freely, with
some resistance (from the diaphragm & spring). T
The car would start, but would often die, and could not be revved. I
took the carbs apart and cleaned the parts with fresh gasoline, then
lubed them with light oil and put them back together (didn't replace
anything). It ran fine thereafter.
BTW - mine is a '70 with two Zenith Stromberg carbs.
Also make sure that you have fuel flow through the filter - disconnect
the fuel line downstream of the filter (at the tee) and turn on the
ignition. The electric pump should produce a healthy flow. It's a good
idea to put the hose in a jar or can - or you are likely to get gas all
over the place.
David Johnson
> .