I recently purchased a Jag XJ40, 4-litre auto (1991). I didn't notice any
problems on the first day I got it, but twice today I've had a problem where
I start the car up and it ticks over fine (though the car does judder a bit
more than I would expect - timing out perhaps, or maybe sparks need
replacing? it does idle at about 750 rpm - is that too low?) but as soon as
I shift the box into reverse or drive it stalls. This happens 3 or 4 times
and then it sets off fine, and hasn't stalled at traffic lights or anything.
The oil pressure in the car seems fine (usually just over half way on the
dial - 5-ish), temps OK and there are no warnings reported by the ECU. I
followed the instructions in the manual for checking the gearbox oil level,
but couldn't get a very good reading.. that is, after I clean the dipstick
and push it in/pull it out again, there's a thin film of oil all the way up
the stick (past the "hot" marker), no matter how many times I repeat the
measuring process. I'll have to have another go at this, but the gearbox
seems to work fine after the initial stalling episode.
Two things I am wondering about - when I bought the car the guy at the
garage said that when they got it they had to change the battery and they
got standard cheap one from their regular supplier.. indeed, the central
locking didn't work at first, but it had been sitting for 4-5 weeks at the
garage and after I drove it the 100 miles or so home and took it around town
a bit the locking suddenly started working and it's worked without fail
since. However, do Jags have a heavier duty batteries fitted to them
normally, given all the electrics they have in them? If that is the case, is
it possible this is the cause of the stalling (OK, maybe that's daft since
it starts first time and it's only when you shift it into gear that it
stalls, but I have to ask as I'm no mechanic!).
The other thing is that I thought I had read somewhere in a bit of
documentation that came with the car (there was loads of stuff!) that the
car would take 95 ot 97 RON unleaded.. but when I was going through the
manual I found a bit that said "use only premium unleaded".. isn't "premium
unleaded" the 97 RON stuff? could that cause the stalling maybe?
Any ideas on this stalling issue, or for that matter - how to get a clean
reading from the auto box dip stick!?
Thanks
Ian
T.G. Lambach - 22 Jun 2004 03:11 GMT
The transmission should be checked with the engine at idle and after the
car's been driven 5 or 10 miles so the box is HOT. The correct level
should not exceed the upper mark, if so it's overfilled and some should
be drained.
Stalling - too soon to tell. Could be incorrect idle speed adjustment,
worn spark plugs, worn ignition cables or a vacuum leak. You're going to
have to do some work to eliminate the most obvious causes i.e. spark
plugs etc.
IanW - 22 Jun 2004 21:09 GMT
> The transmission should be checked with the engine at idle and after the
> car's been driven 5 or 10 miles so the box is HOT. The correct level
> should not exceed the upper mark, if so it's overfilled and some should
> be drained.
ok thanks.. I'll check that again.
> Stalling - too soon to tell. Could be incorrect idle speed adjustment,
> worn spark plugs, worn ignition cables or a vacuum leak. You're going to
> have to do some work to eliminate the most obvious causes i.e. spark
> plugs etc.
I was going to do the basics like sparks myself, but I think there are a few
bits that woul dbe worth checking out so I've booked a service and will take
it from there.
Thanks
IanW
Richard Kuschel - 22 Jun 2004 14:14 GMT
ings I am wondering about - when I bought the car the guy at the
>garage said that when they got it they had to change the battery and they
>got standard cheap one from their regular supplier.. indeed, the central
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
>it starts first time and it's only when you shift it into gear that it
>stalls, but I have to ask as I'm no mechanic!).
IO have a '94 and the security system draws enough current that I cannot start
the car if it is left for 5 weeks without running.
I would suspect that the battery is the culprit.
Don't think the battery has anything to do with the stalling.
750rpm is an adequate idle.
Richard H. Kuschel
"I canna change the law of physics."-----Scotty
IanW - 22 Jun 2004 21:04 GMT
> ings I am wondering about - when I bought the car the guy at the
> >garage said that when they got it they had to change the battery and they
[quoted text clipped - 10 lines]
> IO have a '94 and the security system draws enough current that I cannot start
> the car if it is left for 5 weeks without running.
are the proper batteries for the Jag kind of longer than the average car?
the reason I ask is that the one that they put in there doesn't look like it
fills the slot completely.
> I would suspect that the battery is the culprit.
>
> Don't think the battery has anything to do with the stalling.
aye.. I've got it booked in for a service thursday, so hopefully that will
sort out the stalling.. now that the central locking is working properly
(which was the only electric bit that wasn't, I think I'll leave the current
batt in and see how it goes.
Thanks
IanW
Blake Dodson - 23 Jun 2004 15:41 GMT
> I recently purchased a Jag XJ40, 4-litre auto (1991). I didn't notice any
> problems on the first day I got it, but twice today I've had a problem where
[quoted text clipped - 36 lines]
> Thanks
> Ian
Dear Ian,
I have yet to find a Jaguar with an alarm that did not drain the
battery during storage. Even Jaguar was aware of this an noted in the
manual "For storage unhook the battery". I believe storage is
considered 2 weeks time.
On occasion the idle control valve will lose its calibration with the
battery going flat. This might not be your problem, but I highly
suspect it. It is a relatively simple process to reset your idle valve
and find out. Also there is a little single wire temp sender near the
front of the engine; clean the connector and blade.
BD
IanW - 25 Jun 2004 09:08 GMT
> I have yet to find a Jaguar with an alarm that did not drain the
> battery during storage. Even Jaguar was aware of this an noted in the
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
> and find out. Also there is a little single wire temp sender near the
> front of the engine; clean the connector and blade.
I had it in for service yesterday and the mechanic found that the air intake
pipe hadn't been fitted properly and there was a gap there. He also cleaned
out various bits. He also mentioned that temp sender and thought it is
probably what's causing the fluctuation of revs when the engine is idling
cold, so one of those is on order :-)
Thanks
Ian