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Car Forum / Jaguar Cars / August 2004

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How do I cure failure code FUEL 13?

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DaimlerDude - 16 Aug 2004 06:40 GMT
I have a 1994 Daimler Double Six (based on an XJ40) which has recently
developed an annoying problem.  Driving under normal conditions (ie towns
and local runs) it is fine, but when you are decelarating from motorway
speeds it all goes wrong! The speed keeps decreasing and if you apply more
gas then it starts to backfire. Eventually it just dies and I sit at the
side of the road for about 30-minutes when it fires up again. Sometimes it
doesn't happen again, but usually another 4-5 times before I reach my
destination.  When I press the VCM after ignition it either reads "FAIL
13" or "FUEL", neither of which I can identify in any manuals. Does anyone
recognise this fault and if so how do you correct it? Thanks in advance for
your help/advice.
Blake Dodson - 16 Aug 2004 15:16 GMT
> I have a 1994 Daimler Double Six (based on an XJ40) which has recently
> developed an annoying problem.  Driving under normal conditions (ie towns
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
> recognise this fault and if so how do you correct it? Thanks in advance for
> your help/advice.

Martin,

The code 13 indicates a probelm with the manifold pressure sensor or
the hose to it. But the car should still remain running. I believe you
need to look at your fuel pumps. Your car has two pumps; one is the
main pump whilst the second only comes on at high engine speed (To
make sure that all 12 cylinders get fuel. Another thing to check is
the color of your fuel pump relay- if it is blue replace it with a
black one (more reliable). You can actually swap the relays around to
eliminate questioning these.

I suspect a failing fuel pump.

Regards,
Blake
DaimlerDude - 16 Aug 2004 17:06 GMT
Hi Blake

Thanks for the quick response!  Showing my ignorance, but where are the 2
fuel tanks located (ie are they something I can get to or do I need
"mechanics" help?  Also, any clue you can give me to the code number for
the fuel pump relay that needs to be changed?

Thanks again, Martin.
Blake Dodson - 17 Aug 2004 08:16 GMT
> Hi Blake
>
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
>
> Thanks again, Martin.

The pumps are in-tank. One is the primary pump and the other doesn't
turn on until the engine speed reaches about 3k rpm. Access to the
fuel tank is through the trunk.

Now the dealer will try to sell you the set for around 2- 2.5K but you
can outsource these pumps yourself. (You actually may only need one)
Also replace the check valves when you replace the pump...when these
fail you will have long starting cycles.

It been some time since I worked on a 94...I dont recall which relay
is the primary pump relay. Sry. These are known to burn their contacts
and reduce the amount of voltage getting through them.

Regards,
Blake
DaimlerDude - 28 Aug 2004 21:02 GMT
Hi!

So now I have replaced the relays for the fuel pumps, and for a short time
it ran OK (not great, but OK).

Trouble is now I have got FAIL/FUEL44!

Any ideas on what has caused this and how it can be fixed?

Cheers again in advance.

Daimler Dude.
webserve - 28 Aug 2004 23:17 GMT
Here is  the section from jag-lovers.org on fuel failure 44

 The code 44 and 26 have some overlap. Code 44 means that the oxygen sensor
is signaling the computer that the fuel mixture is bad - too rich or too
lean. The car can then not run in closed loop mode, and the VCM after a
while ignores the oxygen sensor and goes to a default mode. If the sensor
itself was bad, the car would probably run just fine, but use more gas,
although in some cases will run irregularly. More likely you have a true,
too lean or too rich problem.

 The first step in diagnosis is to idle the car until the car runs rough or
the error light is activated. Then, using a DIGITAL multimeter, measure the
output of the oxygen sensor by back probing it while still connected - do
this at the junction of the wire from the sensor on the right (US) fender
well. It will oscillate rapidly under normal conditions from .9 to 2v. If
mixture is too lean it will read very low all the time. Check with a manual
for the actual voltages, these may be incorrect, or vary between models.

 TOO LEAN: If you determine that the mixture is too lean, then you have
either fuel starvation or an intake air leak. If the car idles OK but has
loss of power at speed, then you likely have fuel starvation. An intake air
leak will cause bad idle but will be less noticeable at speed.

 TOO RICH OR AMBIGUOUS: This could be a sensor problem (air mass sensor,
throttle pot or others), but most likely an ignition problem. This may well
be the most common cause for code 44. Before you do anything you check the
ignition, try just replacing distributor cap and rotor , spark plug wires,
and spark plugs. - Its cheap and easy and maintenance anyway. It might be
possible that a misfire resulted in fouling of the oxygen sensor (code 26),
then when replaced with a new one you got code 44.

 Conditions for flagging...

   - Engine coolant temp above 167F,
   - Throttle position under 3 volts,
   - 450 engine revolutions in a row no oxy sensor switching.

 Possible faults:

   - Fuel pressure fault,
   - Stuck open purge valve,
   - Poor ground connections,
   - Poor oxy sensor ground connection,
   - Open or short in oxy sensor heater and/or output circuit,
   - Defective air injection pump or circuit,
   - Intake air leak,
   - Plugged fuel injector (or bad electrical connection)
   - Defective maf sensor.

 Do a hot engine vacuum reading. At about sea level, you should get roughly
20 inches of vacuum at hot idle.

 You can have a vacuum leak in many impossible to see places....
     - The egr system/pipes/valve,
     - The vapor recovery system...at the vacuum port under the throttle
(nipple falls out of manifold), at the charcoal canister hoses in the front
air dam, intake manifold,
     - Crankcase vent system, etc.

 After that, check the fuel pressure and the injectors. You can unbolt the
rail from the intake manifold and remove it, then remove each injector and
check the intake screens. At that time, you can also remove the fuel
pressure regulator  and using air pressure, test the pressure set point.
Should be 44 psi without any vacuum on the vacuum port. Fuel pressure
typically runs between 32 to 44 psi, 44 psi full throttle (no vacuum), 32
psi with 20 inches of vacuum...

 Ignition problems typically set a ff26. During a severe miss, fuel and air
is dumped into the exhaust, setting the FF26. For FF44, the engine seems to
not be able to get enough gas into the mixture. This means a shortage of
fuel, or an abundance of air.

 When heated with a torch till its hot and slightly glowing, the oxy sensor
should put out about .9 volts. Voltage reading will vary around as you move
the torch, but if it gets up to .9 volts, its ok.

 I doubt they fail often, typically when the heater gets erratic. They have
to be hot to work, so if they don't get hot, they don't work. The relay that
powers the heater also runs the fuel pump.

 You could have a big vacuum leak when the ecu operates the canister purge.
The ecu will open the solenoid to purge the fuel vapors in the canister
 after the engine is up to at least 93F and above idle.

 webserve

> Hi!
>
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
>
> Daimler Dude.
Blake Dodson - 29 Aug 2004 04:09 GMT
> Hi!
>
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
>
> Daimler Dude.

What did you do about the map sensor? That is the code 13.
Blake Dodson - 29 Aug 2004 04:10 GMT
> Hi!
>
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
>
> Daimler Dude.

You should have your cats checked as well..

Blake
 
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