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Car Forum / Jaguar Cars / September 200464 XKE running rough
I realize this NG deals mostly with newer Jags...but maybe someone here has experience with some old school. For the past 5 years my 64 3.8 OTS has been off the road due to a problem with my brakes (won't bleed). I've only been starting the engine a few times every year, and I started it today for the first time in about a year. With the help of some starting fluid it stumbled into life, but for the first few minutes it would die if I gave it any gas at all. After it warmed up a little but I could give it some gas, but it didn't seem that willing to rev. After giving it some gas and letting the engine creep up to 1500-2000 rpm the engine would die instead of settling back down to an idle of 500 rpm. Any ideas? Sounds like the old fuel in the lines may be your problem. If it hasn't deteriorated any seals, it may be a simple process. Try to either drain the fuel and replace with fresh, or let it all motor out. A good fuel additive/cleaner may help. >I realize this NG deals mostly with newer Jags...but maybe someone here has >experience with some old school. [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > >Any ideas? Paddington, You have two issues you are dealing with. The first one, the gas problem is apparently pretty clear. Petrol, as it gets older, starts to acquire a "tacky" consistency that starts to line the moving parts of the carburetor. As time moves on and the petrol gets older and sits longer, it turns more and more into a varnish state. What this will affect the most in the fuel system is the floats and the jets. This varnish residue type petrol will plug it all up so you run into the problems you now have. I suggest that you drain the tank and then fill it with fresh petrol. Then disconnect the fuel line at the engine filter and pump fresh petrol through the lines. Then take the float bowl covers off the SU carbs and drain the old petrol from the carbs. Once this is done, hook it all back up and the car should start to even out as the fresh petrol enters the carbs and washes the varnish residue away. You may also have a problem with your pumps as well. When I was re-building my carbs and pumps, I actually used varnish remover to take off the hardened petrol varnish. If you do this, you need to make sure that ALL the chemical is out of the system before you put in new petrol. The brakes on your XKE Series I should be identical to the system on my 1967 420 with a dual braking system for front and rear. The problem here could be anywhere. If in fact, the system will not bleed, then you most likely need a re-build of the Master or the slave. To determine this, you need to track down whether all of the parts are functioning properly. Take the pressure side line of the master off and have some one pump the brakes (make sure you don't spew fluid on the car). The master should pump fluid on each pump of the pedal. If not, the master needs a re-build. Work your way down the stream and check at each point to see if you are getting brake fluid pumped as you go. Break each joint open along the way. Eventually, you will find where the problem is. Remember with these cars that the engine must be running to bleed the brakes because the slave cylinder is vacuum activated with the reaction valve. You need to check ALL the vacuum lines as well as the vacuum reservoir for leaks as well. No vacuum, no bleeding. The reservoir on my 420 is under the right front wing. Hope this helps. Cheers Webserve > I realize this NG deals mostly with newer Jags...but maybe someone here has > experience with some old school. [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > > Any ideas? > Remember with these cars that the > engine must be running to bleed the brakes because the slave cylinder is [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > Cheers > Webserve Hey Webserve! I owe you big time. I've already done everything you mentioned, from rebuilding the slave and master (they do pump fluid ok) to checking and replacing brake lines. At one point, I did have the brakes bled but they were very weak and after a week or two I lost all my pressure...but one thing I never did was run the engine while I was bleeding the system. Tomorrow I can't wait to try this out, although I can't say i'm going to enjoy laying under the car while its running...but if this works i'll owe you a million. Thanks for your help! I suggest you get "Speed Bleeders" for the calipers. They are cute little bleeder valves with a built in ball bearing so when you press on the brake pedal to bleed, the ball goes up and lets the fluid/air out. When the pedal is released, the ball shuts the valve so there is no back feeding of fluid or air. Got them from the local parts store. I got them for all 4 calipers. They say you can bled the brakes by your self with these -- but what else are kids for?? These things sure do make life easier on those rear inboard monstrosities!! The problem with trying to bled the brakes on these cars is that the servo is vacuum operated on the slave. No vacuum means no slave operation which means no fluid to the calipers. I learned the hard way!! Cheers, Webserve > > Remember with these cars that the > > engine must be running to bleed the brakes because the slave cylinder is [quoted text clipped - 14 lines] > enjoy laying under the car while its running...but if this works i'll owe > you a million. Thanks for your help! Where does one find these "Speed Bleeders"? Sounds like something I NEED to have around, even in the kitchen! you On Wed, 15 Sep 2004 22:37:14 -0400, "webserve" >I suggest you get "Speed Bleeders" for the calipers. >They are cute little bleeder valves with a built in ball bearing so when you [quoted text clipped - 31 lines] >> enjoy laying under the car while its running...but if this works i'll owe >> you a million. Thanks for your help! I picked them up off the rack at the local auto parts store. They obviously come in different sizes so there is usually a few together on a rack and poly-packed on a card. I think they ran $3-5 a pair. I am US based Cheers webserve > Where does one find these "Speed Bleeders"? Sounds like something I > NEED to have around, even in the kitchen! [quoted text clipped - 36 lines] > >> enjoy laying under the car while its running...but if this works i'll owe > >> you a million. Thanks for your help! > I picked them up off the rack at the local auto parts store. They obviously > come in different sizes so there is usually a few together on a rack and > poly-packed on a card. I think they ran $3-5 a pair. I am US based > > Cheers > webserve I bought a similar thing here in Oz. It was a rubber tube one end of which you slip over the bleed valve and there is a ball valve at the other end then open the bleed valve. The great thing though is that you can get several quick pumps in without having to close the bleed valve in between. It was supposed to be a one man operation but we still needed another person to prevent the tube from slipping off . Graham (1961 Mark 2) For those curious as to what exactly speed bleeders are -- here is the website http://www.speedbleeder.com/ Webserve > I realize this NG deals mostly with newer Jags...but maybe someone here has > experience with some old school. [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > > Any ideas? Thanks!!! >For those curious as to what exactly speed bleeders are -- here is the >website http://www.speedbleeder.com/ [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] >> I realize this NG deals mostly with newer Jags...but maybe someone here >has > Thanks!!! > > >For those curious as to what exactly speed bleeders are -- here is the > >website http://www.speedbleeder.com/ > > > >Webserve That looks great. Gotta get some. Must be better than the chinese crap that I bought. Graham > For those curious as to what exactly speed bleeders are -- here is the > website http://www.speedbleeder.com/ > > Webserve Thanks, I wish I'd seen these a few weeks ago when I had to replace my Master Cylinder... suggest you join this list gotta be the best for E types http://www.jag-lovers.org/lists/ > suggest you join this list > gotta be the best for E types > > http://www.jag-lovers.org/lists/ Here is another great resource - http://www.motorcarsltd.com/ |
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