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Car Forum / Jeep / February 2007

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CJ Headlights - Passenger Bright, Drivers Dim?

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lynnhowlyn@aol.com - 07 Feb 2007 05:48 GMT
OK - 1983 CJ7, essentailly stock as least in terms of the electrical &
wiring.

I took the grill and radiator out recently while replacing on the PS
gearbox which meant disconnecting headlights, turn signals and etc and
pulling the front harness.

All of the lights (headlights, turn signal and etc) were working
correctly before working on it.

But when I re-installed everything, the drivers headlight is very dim
(VERY dim) and the passenger headlight is pretty normal brightness.
Turn signals work as well as before --- that is to sday , they work
good.

The harness was left connected to the bulkhead connector while I was
working on the Jeep - which still starts and runs like it should

I'm thinking a bad or loose ground, but can't see any loose wires
or ??

Any suggestions on where to start?  Diagnostics?  Haven't tried
swapping bulbs side-to-side yet - but will when I get back into the
shop.

Thanks

Lynn in Vancouver WA
Clunk Tappett - 07 Feb 2007 09:57 GMT
> Passenger Bright, Drivers Dim

Well that's how the passengers see it. Drivers, of course, are of the
opposite opinion.

<sorry!>
Highcountry - 07 Feb 2007 13:33 GMT
Step by step?

A) Swap the headlamp bulbs and see if the problem travels with the
bulb.   This would also be a good time to upgrade to a new set of
Wagner Tru-View lamps, you will be amazed how much better they are
than stock plus they don't overload the stock wiring and switch!

B) If "A" didn't do the trick, take a Digital Multimeter (voltmeter)
and check the voltage at each headlight connector.   Be sure to turn
on the lights and don't forget to switch them from "DIM" to "BRIGHT"
and check both circuits.   Should be almost the same as checking
between the battery posts, without the engine running around 12.3 to
12.6 volts.   If they check good voltage, check the resistance of the
Ground Circuit of the headllight connector using the "Ohm meter"
feature of the Multimeter, it should be virtually "0.00".   Sometimes
each headlamp has it's own ground circuit, you may have loosened one
during your mechanical adventure so trace the ground wires to see what
you have.

Good luck, Bruce
RoyJ - 07 Feb 2007 15:04 GMT
Swap the bulbs first of course. Then dig out an ANALOG multimeter, much
better at finding intermittant problems and diagnostic work.

The easy way is to turn on the headlights, see the dim bulb. Check the
voltage to a good ground (battery terminal if possible) on BOTH sides of
the bulb with the lights on. A good system will read 12 volts or a bit
less on one side, 0 volts or a bit more on the ground side, 10 to 11
volts across the terminals. If you get less than 10 volts on the high
side, start looking for a bad terminal block or frayed wire. If you get
several votlts on the low side, bad ground. The bad ground can either be
on the wire from the socket to the body or the ground strap from the
body (on the firewall) to the back of the engine

> Step by step?
>
[quoted text clipped - 16 lines]
>
> Good luck, Bruce
Lee Ayrton - 07 Feb 2007 20:30 GMT
Just a note: Users should be careful about metering problems like this
without the proper load attached.  A crappy ground connection can let you
read full voltage at no load (leading you to think that it is OK), but the
voltage evaporates when you plug the lamp back in.

> Step by step?
>
[quoted text clipped - 16 lines]
>
> Good luck, Bruce

--
"We began to realize, as we plowed on with the destruction of New Jersey,
that the extent of our American lunatic fringe had been underestimated."
Orson Wells on the reaction to the _War Of The Worlds_ broadcast.
Rod Gramlich - 08 Feb 2007 17:56 GMT
> Just a note: Users should be careful about metering problems like this
> without the proper load attached.  A crappy ground connection can let you
> read full voltage at no load (leading you to think that it is OK), but the
> voltage evaporates when you plug the lamp back in.

exactly ................ the issue here is almost certainly interrupted
current flow under load

>> Step by step?
>>
[quoted text clipped - 21 lines]
> that the extent of our American lunatic fringe had been underestimated."
> Orson Wells on the reaction to the _War Of The Worlds_ broadcast.
billy ray - 07 Feb 2007 15:12 GMT
Assuming the lamp itself is good it appears that you have a circuit
grounding problem.

You will need to get in there and manually clean (and coat with dielectric
grease) the ground connectors and connections.  Perhaps another Jeeper can
give a specific locations to check, I'll just say take apart and clean every
connection you can find.

FWIW.... I had a '68 Rambler American with the same problem which occurred
at some very inopportune time so I temporarily added an additional ground to
the circuit by tinning both ends of a section of 14g house wiring and using
it as a jumper from the ground side of the dim headlight to a bolt on the
grill.  I drove that Rambler for a number of years before giving it to my
baby sister who drove it until 1986...... with that temporary fix still
doing its job! (Not that I recommend you do this bit of hillbilly
re-engineering)

> OK - 1983 CJ7, essentailly stock as least in terms of the electrical &
> wiring.
[quoted text clipped - 24 lines]
>
> Lynn in Vancouver WA
Lee Ayrton - 07 Feb 2007 20:26 GMT
CJ headlights are individually grounded via a pair of #10 screws and nuts,
one on each side of the back panel of the grill, 1" below the center screw
hole for the cold air induction flange (on the left, and the same space on
the right). You have to pull the headlight bucket to see the actual
connection.  They just serve the headlights, the parking/signal lights use
the sheet metal for the ground path and have no seperate ground wire.

> Assuming the lamp itself is good it appears that you have a circuit
> grounding problem.
[quoted text clipped - 41 lines]
>>
>> Lynn in Vancouver WA

--
"We began to realize, as we plowed on with the destruction of New Jersey,
that the extent of our American lunatic fringe had been underestimated."
Orson Wells on the reaction to the _War Of The Worlds_ broadcast.
Mike Romain - 07 Feb 2007 15:46 GMT
The ground tags for the headlights are on the back of the grill.  I
would be thinking one of these wires got damaged or is loose.

Or a loose plug on the back of the light...

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos:  Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

> OK - 1983 CJ7, essentailly stock as least in terms of the electrical &
> wiring.
[quoted text clipped - 24 lines]
>
> Lynn in Vancouver WA
Mike - 07 Feb 2007 15:48 GMT
> OK - 1983 CJ7, essentailly stock as least in terms of the electrical &
> wiring.
[quoted text clipped - 24 lines]
>
> Lynn in Vancouver WA

 Check for a bad ground on the dim headlight.
Rod Gramlich - 08 Feb 2007 17:55 GMT
Almost CERTAINLY a bad connection (it could be ground, ...  or it could be
power source i.e. corroded plug contacts etc.).

There's no bulbs to swap ... per se .... except the sealed units themselves
....... but sealed units are (generally speaking) either working, ... or not
working ..... i.e. with proper connections, the light is either on or off. A
dim light indicates bad current flow .......

My guess would be bad plug connection

> OK - 1983 CJ7, essentailly stock as least in terms of the electrical &
> wiring.
[quoted text clipped - 24 lines]
>
> Lynn in Vancouver WA
Rich - 12 Feb 2007 01:08 GMT
Ditto. that. Clean all your plug contacts and grounds. make sure to use
dielectric grease so it doesn't happen again.

Signature

Rich Harris
1986 CJ7 4.0l head w/MOPAR MPFI, Tom Woods driveshaft, 4:10 w/Detroits F/R,
33" BFG MT's, Rubicon Express springs, ProComp MX6 shocks, revolver
shackles,  and a couple more fun tricks.

> Almost CERTAINLY a bad connection (it could be ground, ...  or it could be
> power source i.e. corroded plug contacts etc.).
[quoted text clipped - 34 lines]
>>
>> Lynn in Vancouver WA
carnuck@hotmail.com - 09 Feb 2007 03:53 GMT
Sounds like a bad ground on one side unless the ground wire inside the
light broke loose.

> OK - 1983 CJ7, essentailly stock as least in terms of the electrical &
> wiring.
[quoted text clipped - 24 lines]
>
> Lynn in Vancouver WA
lynnhowlyn@aol.com - 12 Feb 2007 00:02 GMT
Turned out to be a not just loose or bad - but completley missing -
ground wire.  Broken off flush with the 3 prong socket tht the bulb
plugs into and thus was hard to see.  Replaced the plug and now all is
well.

Thanks for everyone's input.

On Feb 8, 7:53 pm, "carn...@hotmail.com" <carn...@hotmail.com> wrote:
> Sounds like a bad ground on one side unless the ground wire inside the
> light broke loose.
[quoted text clipped - 30 lines]
>
> - Show quoted text -
Mike Romain - 12 Feb 2007 00:18 GMT
Thanks for the update!

Mike

> Turned out to be a not just loose or bad - but completley missing -
> ground wire.  Broken off flush with the 3 prong socket tht the bulb
[quoted text clipped - 29 lines]
>>> Lynn in Vancouver WA- Hide quoted text -
>> - Show quoted text -
Jeff Strickland - 12 Feb 2007 00:55 GMT
> OK - 1983 CJ7, essentailly stock as least in terms of the electrical &
> wiring.
[quoted text clipped - 10 lines]
> Turn signals work as well as before --- that is to sday , they work
> good.

I think the coincidence is that the headlight broke while it was on the
bench.

> The harness was left connected to the bulkhead connector while I was
> working on the Jeep - which still starts and runs like it should
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
>
> Lynn in Vancouver WA
 
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