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Car Forum / Jeep / February 2007CJ Seat Mounting Recomendations?
I need to replace the seat mounting assemblies on my 86 CJ. It has stock seats and the mounts are worn out. I have found all sorts of prices from different manufacturers. My question is this: Has anyone found something they can recommend? Thanks in advance, Bruce I used a bestop seat bracket. Works like the original. I had a home built one for years but now my kids are older I wanted to be able to flip the seat forward so they can get in easier, otherwise, I'd have kept the fixed units I made.  SignatureRich Harris 1986 CJ7 4.0l head w/MOPAR MPFI, Tom Woods driveshaft, 4:10 w/Detroits F/R, 33" BFG MT's, Rubicon Express springs, ProComp MX6 shocks, revolver shackles, and a couple more fun tricks. > > I need to replace the seat mounting assemblies on my 86 CJ. It has [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > > Thanks in advance, Bruce > I need to replace the seat mounting assemblies on my 86 CJ. It has > stock seats and the mounts are worn out. I have found all sorts of [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > > Thanks in advance, Bruce Unless you're in an absolutely desperate situation I'd recommend ebay. Stock seat brackets are fairly common and relatively cheap. Damn sight cheaper than aftermarket. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JEEP-CJ-PASSENGER-TILT-SEAT-BRACKET_W0QQcmdZViewI temQQcategoryZ33701QQihZ008QQitemZ180082726551QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Jeep-Wrangler-YJ-CJ-passenger-seat-riser-bracket- 76-95_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33701QQihZ015QQitemZ250082193552QQrdZ1QQsspagen ameZWDVW http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Jeep-Wrangler-YJ-drivers-side-folding-seat-bracke t-CJ_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33701QQihZ011QQitemZ320080046285QQrdZ1QQsspagena meZWDVW http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Seat-brackets-for-Jeep-CJ_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcateg oryZ33701QQihZ004QQitemZ140083432233QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW That search was for "cj seat brackets". Modifying the search may yield other results. Good luck. I saw those Bestop versions, goodness they are expensive but would most likely be as good or better than the originals! I also saw some offered by Omix-Ada which were less expensive. However, not being able to actually inspect them in person I am wary of buying something useless! Mine old ones look brand new, but the pivot points are wallowed out which lets the seat wobble around too much for my taste. I would be paranoid of buying used ones, because when I removed mine from the Jeep they appeared to be ok. It takes the weight of the passenger and seat to show up the worn pivots! Thanks for the advice folks, Bruce I've seen both. OMIX are ok but lightly built. They are made in China, ie less quality, inch measurements converted to metric to build from then built by slave labor. Besttop are as good or better than OE. If you can find stock on Ebay go for it. I'd want to inspect them first. OE ones will have high mileage so carefully check the pivot points. SignatureRich Harris 1986 CJ7 4.0l head w/MOPAR MPFI, Tom Woods driveshaft, 4:10 w/Detroits F/R, 33" BFG MT's, Rubicon Express springs, ProComp MX6 shocks, revolver shackles, and a couple more fun tricks. > > I saw those Bestop versions, goodness they are expensive but would [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > > Thanks for the advice folks, Bruce Plug weld the holes and redrill. > I saw those Bestop versions, goodness they are expensive but would > most likely be as good or better than the originals! I also saw some [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > > Thanks for the advice folks, Bruce Thanks to all for the options. Curtis, my first reaction when I discovered the problem was "I'll drill those suckers and use bronze bushings!". Well, if you ever disassemble one of these contraptions, you will find it to be a mousetrap! Some of the arms must be stationary with respect to one another while allowing that "box section" to pivot on the floor and seat mounts. Upon disassembly, you find that the PROBLEM stems from the plastic bushing that is used for the pivot to make it easy to operate and that hole is roughly 7/8" while the others are stepped down to about 3/8". I can see where with some creative welding and rigging that I can make it work, however I have kept my CJ as original as possible so I would want to replace them eventually. Rich, thanks for the "Heads Up" on the Chinese garbage from Omix as I would not install them if they were free! Also, looking at the description of your CJ I was wondering how satisfied you are with the MPFI conversion? Also, was it necessary to change the head? If not, what brought you to that step? I did the Fuel injection install as part of an engine overhaul. The install was very easy and the instructions are clear. I really liked the changes afterwards, better mileage and performance especially. I wanted to do the head as well but held off for a while. I'm one of those guys that sometimes waits for a "deal" to come along. I did and sure enough ran into a head for $200 if I remember that was completely rebuilt. I did the swap and it really improved things even more. If I had a stock 258 and was contemplating dong it again, I would if I lived in California still. Engine swaps in Commiefornia are real hard to get by the CARB. However, since I now live in Rude Island, I'd consider doing a swap for a fuel injected chevy 350. Do I regret it? Hell no. I have a very strong running 6cyl, that will put some V8's to shame, all with stock parts. If you decide to go that route, I'll be glad to help. SignatureRich Harris 1986 CJ7 4.0l head w/MOPAR MPFI, Tom Woods driveshaft, 4:10 w/Detroits F/R, 33" BFG MT's, Rubicon Express springs, ProComp MX6 shocks, revolver shackles, and a couple more fun tricks. > Thanks to all for the options. > [quoted text clipped - 17 lines] > MPFI conversion? Also, was it necessary to change the head? If > not, what brought you to that step? I wasn't aware that the 4.0 head was an improvement, what did they change? I definitely don't want to go the V8 route, even if I did it would have to be an AMC. I had a new CJ in 1976 with the 304 completely stock and it was TOO powerful. Any time you punched the throttle in 1st gear you had both rear tires spinning instantly! I am more into gobs of low end slow torque and even carbureted my 258 is great at that. It has 3.31 gears, Manual Transmission and 30" tires. On level roads I can have it Idling in High gear and apply full throttle without any jerking or pinging, it just begins accelerating and builds speed. The major reason I would like the Injection on my 258 is that I plan on taking it to the Rockies and spend some time at 10,000 to 12,000 feet which tends to cause an over rich mixture in a carburetor set up for 300 feet like mine! I doubt I would need to change heads, since my engine runs perfectly. Thank you so much for offering to help, and I WILL take you up on it when the time comes. Thanks, Bruce If you are still running stock, there is a wire you ground for high altitude mix control. It comes out of the loom near the dipstick. I personally can't imagine me 'trusting' gobs of glue to hold my coolant inside my engine like you have to do on the 4.0 head. The water passages in the rear don't match up and overhang the block so all these holes have to be gobbed up with glue or something.... Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) > I wasn't aware that the 4.0 head was an improvement, what did they > change? I definitely don't want to go the V8 route, even if I did it [quoted text clipped - 17 lines] > > Thanks, Bruce That sounds scary! Well, I must get to work so check your responses tomorrow. Thanks again, Bruce MIke, I wouldn't trust "gobs of Glue" either. I took my head to a machine shop and had freezeplugs put in. The passages in question are on one side of the head not in the back. I've known a number of folks who've done the mod and I've been privy to welded, and JB welded as well as freeze plugs. Never have I known of anyone who had a problem with any of those methods.... Not to say no one ever has, but if you do it right you are fine. There is a big difference between both heads as far a economy of performance goes. read this: http://monsterslayer.com/jeep/40Head/40Head.htm I used this article as a guide to do my work. Mike don't be jealous.. try it you'll like it... :-) Since doing the mod, I've been to Colorado and hit a few pretty high altitude trails whithout a burp. SignatureRich Harris 1986 CJ7 4.0l head w/MOPAR MPFI, Tom Woods driveshaft, 4:10 w/Detroits F/R, 33" BFG MT's, Rubicon Express springs, ProComp MX6 shocks, revolver shackles, and a couple more fun tricks. > If you are still running stock, there is a wire you ground for high > altitude mix control. It comes out of the loom near the dipstick. [quoted text clipped - 32 lines] >> >> Thanks, Bruce I have a spare 258 sitting in the garage and a spare 4.0 sitting in front under my 'shade tree' already stripped ready to pull..... I could use the 258 guts in the 4.0 and drop a nice carb and intake and headers on and just rock with a 4.7 or so stroker.... If I am gonna build, I am gonna build... Mike > MIke, I wouldn't trust "gobs of Glue" either. I took my head to a machine > shop and had freezeplugs put in. The passages in question are on one side of [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > Since doing the mod, I've been to Colorado and hit a few pretty high > altitude trails whithout a burp. Agreed Mike. I'd go that route also. In December I retire from the Navy. I have a nice 350 just waiting to go into the Jeep when I do the teardown next time... SignatureRich Harris 1986 CJ7 4.0l head w/MOPAR MPFI, Tom Woods driveshaft, 4:10 w/Detroits F/R, 33" BFG MT's, Rubicon Express springs, ProComp MX6 shocks, revolver shackles, and a couple more fun tricks. >I have a spare 258 sitting in the garage and a spare 4.0 sitting in front >under my 'shade tree' already stripped ready to pull..... [quoted text clipped - 19 lines] >> Since doing the mod, I've been to Colorado and hit a few pretty high >> altitude trails whithout a burp. Hi Rich, My Son's 350: http://members.aol.com/LarrHughes/larr7103.jpg He didn't have to make one part for it, from the radiator, mounts, exhaust, all came from: http://www.advanceadapters.com/catalog/003.html God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0 mailto:LWHughes3rd@aol.com http://www.billhughes.com/ > Agreed Mike. I'd go that route also. In December I retire from the Navy. I > have a nice 350 just waiting to go into the Jeep when I do the teardown next > time... SignaturePosted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com Rich, linky don't work. > MIke, I wouldn't trust "gobs of Glue" either. I took my head to a machine > shop and had freezeplugs put in. The passages in question are on one side of [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > Since doing the mod, I've been to Colorado and hit a few pretty high > altitude trails whithout a burp. As links die, I use http://web.Arcive.org for: http://web.archive.org/web/20060902231446/http://www.monsterslayer.com/jeep/40He ad/40Head.htm God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0 mailto:LWHughes3rd@aol.com http://www.billhughes.com/ > Rich, linky don't work. SignaturePosted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com Thanks, Bill > As links die, I use http://web.Arcive.org for: > http://web.archive.org/web/20060902231446/http://www.monsterslayer.com/jeep/40He ad/40Head.htm > God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0 > mailto:LWHughes3rd@aol.com http://www.billhughes.com/ > >> Rich, linky don't work. |
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