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Car Forum / Jeep / March 2007Rebuild or buy new
I have a 1993 Jeep Grand Cherokee, with the V8 engine, and burn/drip about 1 quart of oil every 6 weeks. It has nearly 135000 miles on it, and I was wondering what is the best thing to do for the engine. Should I have the engine rebuilt, or if I am sufficiently annoyed with the oil situation, should I begin looking for a new jeep? If you think that rebuilding is best, can you tell me about what it costs to have done? (I am handy around an engine, but not handy to take apart an engine.) Thanks for any help you can give. > I have a 1993 Jeep Grand Cherokee, with the V8 engine, and burn/drip about 1 > quart of oil every 6 weeks. It has nearly 135000 miles on it, and I was [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > have done? (I am handy around an engine, but not handy to take apart an > engine.) Thanks for any help you can give. If want you have is a sound vehicle that you are otherwise happy with, you can rebuild the engine a whole lot cheaper than you can buy another vehicle. If you can pull it and install it yourself you will be WAY cheaper. I do like my car, I just don't like the oil consumption. Do you have any idea of what it costs to rebuild the engine? >> I have a 1993 Jeep Grand Cherokee, with the V8 engine, and burn/drip >> about 1 quart of oil every 6 weeks. It has nearly 135000 miles on it, [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > vehicle. If you can pull it and install it yourself you will be WAY > cheaper. When the engine in my Suburban went bad I had more money than time. I wound up spending around $3,000 at the Chevy dealer for a NEW crate engine, installed. It was blowing a quart every 300 miles, and I had installed aftermarket breathers to get the oil spray off the windshield. Prices for a Jeep engine are going to be more, because DaimlerChrysler is awfully proud of their products, some say without reason, but this should give you a ballpark idea of the most you could spend. The best option for a rebuilt is to find a local or at least in-state rebuilder with a good reputation. If you post where you live, perhaps people here will know a good one nearby. People report problems with some of the "factory rebuilders", perhaps because the people who trade in cores wait too long. Spend some time diagnosing the problem first. You could just have a bad valve cover gasket or a plugged PCV system. Earle > I do like my car, I just don't like the oil consumption. Do you have any > idea of what it costs to rebuild the engine? [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > > vehicle. If you can pull it and install it yourself you will be WAY > > cheaper. First would be to determine if it is leaking or burning or leaking thru valve guides or such. Compression, leak down test, etc. That few miles shouldn't be burning that much oil... Crate motor might be cheaper than a rebuild. YouGoFirst proclaimed: > I do like my car, I just don't like the oil consumption. Do you have any > idea of what it costs to rebuild the engine? [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] >>vehicle. If you can pull it and install it yourself you will be WAY >>cheaper. i assume you will have trans done also? writesoon! Take a peak down the throttle body and see if there is a layer of oil down there. You might just need a seal replacement. (Or are you burning that much?) >I have a 1993 Jeep Grand Cherokee, with the V8 engine, and burn/drip about >1 quart of oil every 6 weeks. It has nearly 135000 miles on it, and I was [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > to have done? (I am handy around an engine, but not handy to take apart > an engine.) Thanks for any help you can give. If it needs a new seal, is that difficult to replace, or is that a simple fix? > Take a peak down the throttle body and see if there is a layer of oil down > there. You might just need a seal replacement. [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] >> to have done? (I am handy around an engine, but not handy to take apart >> an engine.) Thanks for any help you can give. Seals and gaskets are relatively easy to replace. I'll bet if you go and just try with your fingers you will find a bunch of valve cover and oil pan bolts finger loose. Sometimes all it needs is a little tighten here and there. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) > If it needs a new seal, is that difficult to replace, or is that a simple > fix? [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] >>> to have done? (I am handy around an engine, but not handy to take apart >>> an engine.) Thanks for any help you can give. Not to inflate your ego, but you are so smart. I crawled under my jeep, and poked around the valve cover, and those areas were visibly wet with oil. Now I just have to figure out how to get to all of the bolts with a wrench. > Seals and gaskets are relatively easy to replace. I'll bet if you go and > just try with your fingers you will find a bunch of valve cover and oil [quoted text clipped - 25 lines] >>>> costs to have done? (I am handy around an engine, but not handy to >>>> take apart an engine.) Thanks for any help you can give. A quarter inch socket set with universals and wobblies and, of course, a torque wrench that measures Inch-Pounds. > Not to inflate your ego, but you are so smart. I crawled under my jeep, > and poked around the valve cover, and those areas were visibly wet with [quoted text clipped - 30 lines] >>>>> costs to have done? (I am handy around an engine, but not handy to >>>>> take apart an engine.) Thanks for any help you can give. A normal open/boxed end wrench can come in handy to fit the open end on those suckers hidden under the starter and mounts. It doesn't take much to turn them tight. My book says 5 to 9 ft lb on the 1/4" screws and 9-13 for the 5/16" ones, but that is for the AMC engine. I would think the Chrysler engine should be close to that but am sure someone here has the proper specs. Mike > A quarter inch socket set with universals and wobblies and, of course, a > torque wrench that measures Inch-Pounds. [quoted text clipped - 33 lines] >>>>>> costs to have done? (I am handy around an engine, but not handy to >>>>>> take apart an engine.) Thanks for any help you can give. What torque should I tighten things to? >A quarter inch socket set with universals and wobblies and, of course, a >torque wrench that measures Inch-Pounds. [quoted text clipped - 33 lines] >>>>>> costs to have done? (I am handy around an engine, but not handy to >>>>>> take apart an engine.) Thanks for any help you can give. The torque specs are for replacement of the gaskets with new parts. I don't believe they are valid for an old gasket or to slow down a leak. I use a 1/4" drive socket wrench and my small finger on the end of the handle applying the pressure on the old ones. I stop if I see the slightest deformation of the metal happening. I have large and strong hands and figure my last finger can put the 3-5 or so ft lb of torque on them. When I sneak the open end of a wrench onto a bolt head vertically in a tight space, I use mini vise grips clamped onto the wrench shaft close to the box end to turn it. This is tons of power for those bolts. Mike > What torque should I tighten things to? > [quoted text clipped - 35 lines] >>>>>>> costs to have done? (I am handy around an engine, but not handy to >>>>>>> take apart an engine.) Thanks for any help you can give. I use my thumb and index fingers on a quarter inch drive, kind of like the bolts some Hot Rodders use on their valve covers: http://www.speco.com.au/images/AccValveCoverWing.jpg God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0 mailto:LWHughes3rd@aol.com http://www.billhughes.com/ > The torque specs are for replacement of the gaskets with new parts. I > don't believe they are valid for an old gasket or to slow down a leak. [quoted text clipped - 50 lines] > >>>>>>> costs to have done? (I am handy around an engine, but not handy to > >>>>>>> take apart an engine.) Thanks for any help you can give.  SignaturePosted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com That sounds about the same to me. 'I' might be able to go way too tight your way, which I know from experience, so I stick to holding it with the first two fingers and thumb and using the little finger for power on pans and valve covers. I can 'easily' crack the plastic valve covers with just the little finger pushing and regularly gut worm gear clamps when I use a nut driver on them. I am the kind of guy that snaps sider cutter handles off when using them. I have snapped two in the last couple months, one was a cheapie, one wasn't... Mike > I use my thumb and index fingers on a quarter inch drive, kind of like > the bolts some Hot Rodders use on their valve covers: [quoted text clipped - 18 lines] >> >>> What torque should I tighten things to? <snip> Yup, I am not put any power on it either. God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0 mailto:LWHughes3rd@aol.com http://www.billhughes.com/ > That sounds about the same to me. > [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > > Mike SignaturePosted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com I twist the heads of 'em with my bare fingers. On Thu, 8 Mar 2007 16:34:36 -0800, "L.W. \(Bill\) Hughes III" <billhughes@cox.net> wrote: > Yup, I am not put any power on it either. > God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0 [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] >> >> Mike Torquing down an old leaky gasket can make the leak worse. Been there, done that. Gaskets are cheap. Mike Romain proclaimed: > The torque specs are for replacement of the gaskets with new parts. I > don't believe they are valid for an old gasket or to slow down a leak. [quoted text clipped - 51 lines] >>>>>>>> it costs to have done? (I am handy around an engine, but not >>>>>>>> handy to take apart an engine.) Thanks for any help you can give. OK... If you really are intending to KEEP the Jeep, now is the time to "do it right" and get it over with. If it has not been done already, it is time to replace the "timing chain and gears" on that 318. Seeing as how you have numerous gaskets that are 15 years old and fatigued, it will be MUCH better to just PULL the engine and do it all while on an engine stand. Replace the Timing Chain AND Gears New Timing Cover gaskets and Front Crank Seal New Water Pump New Oil Pan Gasket New Rear Main Crank Seal New Valve Cover Gaskets I would also replace all of the "freeze plugs" or core plugs while I had it out of the Jeep. There are some on the rear of the engine that can not be reached without pulling the transmission or engine. (Ask me how I know that!) That should set your 318 up to be ready for another 100,000 miles at least. Good Luck, Bruce Valve cover gaskets are straight forward, oil pan and main rears are more problematic but the one that I was thinking of when I asked about peeping into the throttle body is the plenum gasket which is under the intake manifold. It appears to be ........ more common..... in the newer 318 and 360s than in the older engines of the same family series. Any competent backyard mechanic should be able to do the labor, the hardest part will be disconnecting and correctly reconnecting all the stuff attached to the manifold. Be sure to take lots of pix and label everything. A FSM will be invaluable for this (as well as any other) project. If the previous owner(s) kept the oil changed regularly you should have many more years faithful service with that marvelous engine. It was in use for more than 30 years. > If it needs a new seal, is that difficult to replace, or is that a simple > fix? [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] >>> costs to have done? (I am handy around an engine, but not handy to take >>> apart an engine.) Thanks for any help you can give. Maybe it's only dripping. These are good engines. I would keep it. If you add up the new car cost, insurance premiums, interest at the bank and your state's sales and vehicle tax you could get a new engine from the dealer. I think your first priority is to hunt down the oil leaks and fix them. Earle > I have a 1993 Jeep Grand Cherokee, with the V8 engine, and burn/drip about 1 > quart of oil every 6 weeks. It has nearly 135000 miles on it, and I was [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > have done? (I am handy around an engine, but not handy to take apart an > engine.) Thanks for any help you can give. > I have a 1993 Jeep Grand Cherokee, with the V8 engine, and burn/drip about 1 > quart of oil every 6 weeks. It has nearly 135000 miles on it, and I was [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > have done? (I am handy around an engine, but not handy to take apart an > engine.) Thanks for any help you can give. The last 318 I had went about 300,000 miles.... Is that what they use? I think I would address the leaks which is a driveway afternoon or two job and then check the real oil consumption. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) |
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