I have a '96 GC 4.0 with 170k and it looks like the seal is starting to
leak. I was wondering if there was a good web site to go to for instructions
on replacing this before it's to late. Thanks in advance..
Mike Romain - 13 Mar 2007 16:37 GMT
> I have a ’96 GC 4.0 with 170k and it looks like the seal is starting to
> leak. I was wondering if there was a good web site to go to for
> instructions on replacing this before it’s to late. Thanks in advance……
Before you go getting too dirty, the 4.0 is notorious for valve cover
leaks that run down the back center of the engine so it looks like the
rear main is leaking.
To test this, run the engine for a bit, then take a clean rag and rub it
around the back side of the engine head just below the valve cover. If
you find oil, then you should fix the cover leak first to see if that is
all it is.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
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RoyJ - 13 Mar 2007 16:45 GMT
Jeep 6 cyl engines are nortorious for leaking out the rear of the valve
cover, mimics a rear main seal leak very nicely. Take it to the self
service car wash, wash off the back of the engine, the firewall, and as
far down onto the bell housing as you can. Wipe it dry, look for any
signs of fresh oil. Stick a paper towel between the firewall and engine,
below the level of the valve cover and drive it home. If the valve cover
is leaking, it will show up within 5 or 10 miles.
Changing the rear seal and getting it to stop leaking is a major PITA.
To do it right requires pulling the engine and the crankshaft. There are
some tricks to doing it in the vehicle, none of those are sure fixes.
With 170k on the engine, I'd suggest just living with the leak until it
gets past your pain threshold. Anything over 500 miles on a quart seems
like a reasonable point to just ignore it. This is not a catastrphic
failure, it just gets worse with more miles.
> I have a ’96 GC 4.0 with 170k and it looks like the seal is starting to
> leak. I was wondering if there was a good web site to go to for
> instructions on replacing this before it’s to late. Thanks in advance……
FrankW - 13 Mar 2007 16:55 GMT
I traded mine in for a new one
after my friends wouldn't let me park
in their driveway anymore. :-)
> gets past your pain threshold. Anything over 500 miles on a quart seems
> like a reasonable point to just ignore it. This is not a catastrphic
> failure, it just gets worse with more miles.
L.W. (Bill) Hughes III - 14 Mar 2007 00:36 GMT
It was just marking it's territory, like your cat or dog.
God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0
mailto:LWHughes3rd@aol.com http://www.billhughes.com/
> I traded mine in for a new one
> after my friends wouldn't let me park
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
> > like a reasonable point to just ignore it. This is not a catastrphic
> > failure, it just gets worse with more miles.

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Mike Romain - 13 Mar 2007 17:41 GMT
I have done several without removing the crank. It is a 2 piece seal
that slips into place easily if you follow the lube directions on the
package.
My current engine had the rear main done in 2000 by me and is still leak
free. Now I did have the engine on the ground for this one, but only
removed the oil pan and back journal.
My valve cover however has started to seep again.... It is only held by
2 center nuts up top, no perimeter bolts on this old one.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> Jeep 6 cyl engines are nortorious for leaking out the rear of the valve
> cover, mimics a rear main seal leak very nicely. Take it to the self
[quoted text clipped - 15 lines]
>> to leak. I was wondering if there was a good web site to go to for
>> instructions on replacing this before it’s to late. Thanks in advance……
Jeff Strickland - 14 Mar 2007 02:39 GMT
The rear main is probably okay. The actual problem is usually the valve
cover gasket.
I replaced my rear main twice before I found this out. And, I was able to
physically watch the oil flow out the back of the valve cover, near the
firewall.
>I have a '96 GC 4.0 with 170k and it looks like the seal is starting to
> leak. I was wondering if there was a good web site to go to for
> instructions
> on replacing this before it's to late. Thanks in advance..
wfpearson - 14 Mar 2007 13:45 GMT
> The rear main is probably okay. The actual problem is usually the valve
> cover gasket.
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
> > instructions
> > on replacing this before it's to late. Thanks in advance..
I just replaced my rear main seal, and it was actually the rear main
seal as I had already replaced the valve cover gasket. However the
valve cover job was much easier to accomplish. I don't want to do the
seal job again for a very long time. The top seal was easier to get
out once I found that if you push up with a punch on the right hand
side (passenger) of the upper seal while someone else turns the
crankshaft it will rotate right out.
Lee Ayrton - 14 Mar 2007 19:14 GMT
> I have a '96 GC 4.0 with 170k and it looks like the seal is starting to
> leak. I was wondering if there was a good web site to go to for instructions
> on replacing this before it's to late. Thanks in advance..
In addition to the good advice others posted, you might want to eyeball
your air filter element for signs of oil. If your engine is blowing oil
onto the air filter your CCV system is plugged and that will make your
valve cover leak. Been there, done that...
The CCV tubing and grommet aren't really serviceable, you buy the whole
harness and simply swap it.
See:
http://jeep.off-road.com/jeep/article/articleDetail.jsp?id=257985
--
"We began to realize, as we plowed on with the destruction of New Jersey,
that the extent of our American lunatic fringe had been underestimated."
Orson Wells on the reaction to the _War Of The Worlds_ broadcast.
Mike Romain - 14 Mar 2007 21:09 GMT
I use carb cleaner spray and soak my CCV tube with it, then ream it with
a chunk of wire. A paper clip will work to ream the grommet's hole.
It works for me. Mine blocks every couple years with 315K km on her.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>> I have a '96 GC 4.0 with 170k and it looks like the seal is starting to
>> leak. I was wondering if there was a good web site to go to for
[quoted text clipped - 11 lines]
> See:
> http://jeep.off-road.com/jeep/article/articleDetail.jsp?id=257985
Lon - 15 Mar 2007 04:52 GMT
Edward R. Wojciechowski JR proclaimed:
> I have a ’96 GC 4.0 with 170k and it looks like the seal is starting to
> leak. I was wondering if there was a good web site to go to for
> instructions on replacing this before it’s to late. Thanks in advance……
Before you do this, check along the back of the block. The most common
cause of this leak is the valve cover, the oil runs down the back of the
block and looks pretty much exactly like a rear seal. The seals DO go
bad, but more often it is the cover.
Google for Jeep 4.0 rear main seal replace and pick the site with the
best pictures.