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Car Forum / Jeep / March 2007Fixing exhaust lead
The rearmost stud is broken on my 2.5 4cyl (95 YJ) and it has an exhaust leak. It was this way when I bought it so I have no idea how long it has gone like this. Yesterday I took it to a mechanic and he said that he could just remove the manifolds and broken stud and put in a new gasket but that there is only a 50% chance it will seal properly. He said the sure fix is to mill the exhaust manifold and mating surface on the head, stating that the exhaust leak could have erroded the mating surfaces. Does this sound reasonable? Also, would the intake manifold also have to be milled to keep it at the same thickness? I worry about this because some of the fasterners are used to hold both manifolds in place. Thanks > The rearmost stud is broken on my 2.5 4cyl (95 YJ) and it has an > exhaust leak. It was this way when I bought it so I have no idea how [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > > Thanks Any advice would be appreciated. I´m sure some of you have dealt with this before. Thanks >> The rearmost stud is broken on my 2.5 4cyl (95 YJ) and it has an >> exhaust leak. It was this way when I bought it so I have no idea how [quoted text clipped - 15 lines] > Any advice would be appreciated. I´m sure some of you have dealt with > this before. Thanks I have seen manifolds erode or pit very badly if a leak is left unfixed for a long enough time, so yes it is possible. If you trust your mechanic, then take his advice. There are many good mechanics out there, and there are also a lot of shady ones. Chris > >> The rearmost stud is broken on my 2.5 4cyl (95 YJ) and it has an > >> exhaust leak. It was this way when I bought it so I have no idea how [quoted text clipped - 24 lines] > > - Mostrar texto de la cita - Thanks to all who replied. This mechanic is highly recommended by the local jeepers so I would tend to trust him. I was starting to doubt since milling seemed extreme to me. However, based on your comments it seems he was just letting me know the worst case scenario. I'm thinking if it needs milling, I would rather get headers or a new manifold and mill only on the head to avoid mismatching the intake and exhaust manifold thicknesses. Thanks >>>> The rearmost stud is broken on my 2.5 4cyl (95 YJ) and it has an >>>> exhaust leak. It was this way when I bought it so I have no idea how [quoted text clipped - 29 lines] > > Thanks There is a gasket glue designed for exhaust gaskets in case of pits from a leak and it is not unheard of to double the gaskets if it has a slight warp. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) Actually, milling is really just plopping the head and/or manifold(s) down on a big blanchard grinder. It's a 24" diameter horizontal grinding wheel, just slide the part over it. Takes just a couple minutes to flatten things out. 99% of the time is getting the head off. Might as well think about grinding the valves while it is off. >>>>The rearmost stud is broken on my 2.5 4cyl (95 YJ) and it has an >>>>exhaust leak. It was this way when I bought it so I have no idea how [quoted text clipped - 34 lines] > > Thanks > Actually, milling is really just plopping the head and/or manifold(s) > down on a big blanchard grinder. It's a 24" diameter horizontal grinding [quoted text clipped - 42 lines] > > - Show quoted text - Thanks to everybody for the help. In case you need the exhaust manifold: http://www.1aauto.com/1A/ExhaustManifolds/Jeep/Wrangler God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0 mailto:LWHughes3rd@aol.com http://www.billhughes.com/ On 15 mar, 17:28, c <c...@me.org> wrote: > nrs wrote: > >> The rearmost stud is broken on my 2.5 4cyl (95 YJ) and it has an [quoted text clipped - 25 lines] > > - Mostrar texto de la cita - Thanks to all who replied. This mechanic is highly recommended by the local jeepers so I would tend to trust him. I was starting to doubt since milling seemed extreme to me. However, based on your comments it seems he was just letting me know the worst case scenario. I'm thinking if it needs milling, I would rather get headers or a new manifold and mill only on the head to avoid mismatching the intake and exhaust manifold thicknesses. Thanks  SignaturePosted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com On Mar 15, 8:01 pm, "L.W. \(Bill\) Hughes III" <billhug...@cox.net> wrote: > In case you need the exhaust manifold:http://www.1aauto.com/1A/ExhaustManifolds/Jeep/Wrangler > God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0 [quoted text clipped - 46 lines] > > - Show quoted text - Thanks for the link. I am also seeing some 2.5 exhaust manifolds on eBay for around $40.00. > The rearmost stud is broken on my 2.5 4cyl (95 YJ) and it has an > exhaust leak. It was this way when I bought it so I have no idea how [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > > Does this sound reasonable? Depends on how much damage has occurred. It might be minimal or something that can be taken up with one of the better ringseal type gaskets and some permatex copper. milling the head and exhaust manifold is much more expensive than re-doing the gasket so I'd probably try the gasket first. Then if it was necissary I'd get an aftermarket set of headers for it and have the block checked. Checking the block for erosion isn't too difficult just time consuming. > Also, would the intake manifold also have to be milled to keep it at > the same thickness? I worry about this because some of the fasterners > are used to hold both manifolds in place. This is an issue. Minor differences should be taken up by the cone washers but yes, if they mill too much. That's why I suggest looking at a nice set of headers. Signature-- DougW -- 93 ZJ 4.0 http://revbeergoggles.com HESCO Supercharger - 300W IASCA Stereo - Edelbrock IAS Shocks Gibson Exhaust - rear DCpower - custom gauge install - Stillen Rotors Banks Header - and BEER, in the fridge! >> The rearmost stud is broken on my 2.5 4cyl (95 YJ) and it has an >> exhaust leak. It was this way when I bought it so I have no idea how [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > so I'd probably try the gasket first. Then if it was necissary > I'd get an aftermarket set of headers for it and have the block er.. head checked.. like I need mine checked for calling the head a block. guess I'm a block head. > checked. Checking the block for erosion isn't too difficult > just time consuming. [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > washers but yes, if they mill too much. That's why I suggest looking > at a nice set of headers. |
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