I agree that it is extremely common, but not that it is "caused" by the
impact gun. I have barely six thousand miles on a set of new rotors, and
they are already pulsating a bit, along with Autozone "lifetime" pads. I
put the wheels on with a torque wrench, of course. Maybe I drove the
vehicle in the rain, or made a panic stop or two, but what the hell are you
supposed to do?
Earle
> > my '06 tj with 5000 miles on it .....and the brakes are pulsating
> > ......is this a common problem .....don't want to turn the rotators this
[quoted text clipped - 18 lines]
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
DougW - 24 Mar 2007 20:10 GMT
> I agree that it is extremely common, but not that it is "caused" by
> the impact gun. I have barely six thousand miles on a set of new
> rotors, and they are already pulsating a bit, along with Autozone
> "lifetime" pads. I put the wheels on with a torque wrench, of
> course. Maybe I drove the vehicle in the rain, or made a panic stop
> or two, but what the hell are you supposed to do?
proper brake-in (pun intended) is key to long brake life.
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_warped_brakedisk.shtml
The procedure is basically a series of increasingly quicker
stops from increasing speed, followed by a drive to allow the
disc to cool.
What you want to avoid with new brakes is to run hard, stop
hard, then sit there at the light with your foot on the brake.
That traps a lot of heat under the pad and will start the
warping process.

Signature
DougW
Stupendous Man - 25 Mar 2007 00:25 GMT
> proper brake-in (pun intended) is key to long brake life.
> http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_warped_brakedisk.shtml
Good article. I was reading the latest JC Whitney motorcycle catalog at
lunch. During the week I had, among
other things, relined 25 sets of vintage Lotus race car brake shoes with NOS
Ferrodo asbestos linings. This stuff is nearly impossible to find and prized
by vintage racers.
The catalog shows brake shoes and pads, "made with non-asbestos low friction
linings to avoid sqeaking". Low friction brake linings? For those times when
you really don't want to stop? What next, high friction oil?

Signature
Stupendous Man,
Defender of Freedom, Advocate of Liberty
DougW - 25 Mar 2007 01:31 GMT
>> proper brake-in (pun intended) is key to long brake life.
>> http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_warped_brakedisk.shtml
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
> those times when you really don't want to stop? What next, high
> friction oil?
Kaleco's cross drilled brake lines. http://www.kalecoauto.com/
They don't have high friction brake oil, but I'm willing to bet
they would carry it. :)

Signature
DougW
Stupendous Man - 25 Mar 2007 00:37 GMT
I don't know if Jeep has learned anything useful from Mercedes, but my 300TD
uses soft nodular iron rotors that should be replaced rather than turned.
They seldom make it thru a second set of pads without warping, but they are
cheap, designed to be sacrificed.
They can be bought for as low as $17.30 each.

Signature
Stupendous Man,
Defender of Freedom, Advocate of Liberty
L.W. (Bill) Hughes III - 24 Mar 2007 21:44 GMT
Hi Earle,
Agreed, Daimler's composite rotors and weak hubs are the problem. I've
slammed thousand of wheels on the Real American cars, and trucks without a
problem!
God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0
mailto:LWHughes3rd@aol.com http://www.billhughes.com/chevron/jpg
> I agree that it is extremely common, but not that it is "caused" by the
> impact gun. I have barely six thousand miles on a set of new rotors, and
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
>
> Earle

Signature
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
> This is extremely common and is normally caused by putting the tires on
> with an impact gun. They are supposed to be finished up with a torque
> wrench.
Any competent mechanic should have a set ot torque sticks.
http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/ameext50.html
I wouldn't use them on an aluminum Porsche hub, but for iron they are great.
If you want to be finicky, use the next lower range and then torque by hand.

Signature
Stupendous Man,
Defender of Freedom, Advocate of Liberty
RoyJ - 24 Mar 2007 22:35 GMT
The tire shop I go to has a set of torque spec standards on a doorway to
the parts room. First order of business in the morning is to take the
manual clicker torque wrench and check it's accuracy. Then all wheels
are finished up using a torque wrench.
>>This is extremely common and is normally caused by putting the tires on
>>with an impact gun. They are supposed to be finished up with a torque
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
> I wouldn't use them on an aluminum Porsche hub, but for iron they are great.
> If you want to be finicky, use the next lower range and then torque by hand.