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Car Forum / Jeep / April 2007

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81 CJ 258 starting problem

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Greg - 31 Mar 2007 03:24 GMT
Here's the story, jeep hasn't ran for couple months, went to start it the
other day to move it out of garage, it was dead, jumped it, moved it out of
garage, tried starting again, just click click, click, I figured battery was
gone as this is the same one I left lights on for a week last year, everyone
said wouldn't come back, but it did, been fine for the year. I was all ready
to go get new battery and figured I would put the meter on it to make sure,
it was 11.96, that sounds like a fully charged bat. to me, so I replaced the
solinoid, thinking that was it. On first start up, when I turned the key to
on there was a buzzing for about 10 seconds, about as long as it took me to
put gas to floor twice to choke it, anyway started fine, drove it up and
down road, and parked in driveway, shut it off and restarted it fine. Today
when I went to start it, it went click, click, click, then started, but
started didn't stop starting, I turned the key to off, still running and
starter still starting, daughter yells turn it off, I hold up key to her!!,
so I stick it back in and turn it to start again and it stops the starter,
so I move the jeep to where I wanted it, start it 2 times fine, so what the
hell was that???????
Mike Romain - 31 Mar 2007 04:36 GMT
>   Here's the story, jeep hasn't ran for couple months, went to start it the
> other day to move it out of garage, it was dead, jumped it, moved it out of
[quoted text clipped - 13 lines]
> so I move the jeep to where I wanted it, start it 2 times fine, so what the
> hell was that???????

That can happen with a bad connection arc raising the temp or pulling
too many amps.  The bad connection causes too many amps to go through
the cable which can arc the solenoid plate inside.

How is the cable to the starter and the connection on the starter?  What
about the starter's brushes?

If I remember right, a low battery makes the above effect happen easier.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos:  Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
bllsht - 31 Mar 2007 08:06 GMT
>>   Here's the story, jeep hasn't ran for couple months, went to start it the
>> other day to move it out of garage, it was dead, jumped it, moved it out of
[quoted text clipped - 17 lines]
>too many amps.  The bad connection causes too many amps to go through
>the cable which can arc the solenoid plate inside.

I take it you've never heard of ohm's law. Higher resistance doesn't
increase current flow.

>How is the cable to the starter and the connection on the starter?  What
>about the starter's brushes?
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
>Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
>(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
L.W. (Bill) Hughes III - 31 Mar 2007 09:23 GMT
But a low amperage will melt a starter and often the cables and solenoid
going it, usually not allowing us to shut off the starting motor until the
battery is completely dead.
       God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0
mailto:LWHughes3rd@aol.com http://www.billhughes.com/

> I take it you've never heard of ohm's law. Higher resistance doesn't
> increase current flow.

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Will Honea - 31 Mar 2007 09:56 GMT
> I take it you've never heard of ohm's law. Higher resistance doesn't
> increase current flow.

Unless you've designed switches, you probably don't know much about closure
rate and contact pressure to minimize arc-over, either.  Slow or soft
closure allows momentary arcing which is a great way to weld contacts.
Hard closure also helps overcome the oxidation layer that forms almost
instantly on most pure metals like the copper used in those starter relays.
All that is an effect of high resistance restricting the current through
the solenoid coil which gives you a weak closure.

Signature

Will Honea
whonea@yahoo.com

bllsht - 31 Mar 2007 18:18 GMT
>> I take it you've never heard of ohm's law. Higher resistance doesn't
>> increase current flow.
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
>All that is an effect of high resistance restricting the current through
>the solenoid coil which gives you a weak closure.

Never designed a switch, but have replaced many welded relays caused
by low current flow.
L.W. (Bill) Hughes III - 31 Mar 2007 07:16 GMT
At some time in your battery because disconnect while the engine was
running and popped the alternator diode in that instant. The battery is now
discharging into that trigger wire powering your ignition switch from the
off side. On cars with an idiot light, that light will be burning while the
ignition switch is off, and the battery is being discharged.
       God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0
mailto:LWHughes3rd@aol.com http://www.billhughes.com/

>   Here's the story, jeep hasn't ran for couple months, went to start it
the
> other day to move it out of garage, it was dead, jumped it, moved it out of
> garage, tried starting again, just click click, click, I figured battery was
[quoted text clipped - 12 lines]
> so I move the jeep to where I wanted it, start it 2 times fine, so what the
> hell was that???????

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Greg - 31 Mar 2007 16:19 GMT
I read the rest of the replies, mostly argueing about resistence, anyway
Mike I cleaned all connections on bat. solinoid, and alt. only one I didn't
clean was one down at starter, and starter and bat cables are about a year
old.
 Bill mentioned at some point bat. was disconnected while running, that
didn't happen, but when I thought the bat. was dead the other day I used my
battery charger which has a setting for 70 amps to start a vehicle, which I
used and it arced when disconncting it. I replaced everything on engine when
I put a rebuilt in 1 1/2 years ago, all but alt. Am I now ready for that?

>  Here's the story, jeep hasn't ran for couple months, went to start it the
> other day to move it out of garage, it was dead, jumped it, moved it out
[quoted text clipped - 14 lines]
> the jeep to where I wanted it, start it 2 times fine, so what the hell was
> that???????
Mike - 31 Mar 2007 17:52 GMT
> I read the rest of the replies, mostly argueing about resistence, anyway
> Mike I cleaned all connections on bat. solinoid, and alt. only one I
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
> engine when I put a rebuilt in 1 1/2 years ago, all but alt. Am I now
> ready for that?

 First start with a known good battery. A fully charged battery should read
around 12.65 volts. The voltage reading you got when ckecking your battery,
11.96, indicates a battery that is 80% DISCHARGED.

>>  Here's the story, jeep hasn't ran for couple months, went to start it
>> the other day to move it out of garage, it was dead, jumped it, moved it
[quoted text clipped - 14 lines]
>> the jeep to where I wanted it, start it 2 times fine, so what the hell
>> was that???????
merrill - 31 Mar 2007 18:22 GMT
Mike, I agree with these numbers.

Greg, You should have over 12 volts and 12.65 sounds about right with
everything off. At idle you should have over 13 volts, about 13.8 at
fast idle if memory serves. Any more than that means your alternator
is working hard to charge the battery. Less than 12.5 volts at fast
idle indicates the alternator is not charging the battery. Do you have
a guage in the dash or an idiot light?

Merrill

> > I read the rest of the replies, mostly argueing about resistence, anyway
> > Mike I cleaned all connections on bat. solinoid, and alt. only one I
[quoted text clipped - 31 lines]
>
> - Show quoted text -
Jeff Strickland - 31 Mar 2007 22:40 GMT
>> I read the rest of the replies, mostly argueing about resistence, anyway
>> Mike I cleaned all connections on bat. solinoid, and alt. only one I
[quoted text clipped - 10 lines]
> read around 12.65 volts. The voltage reading you got when ckecking your
> battery, 11.96, indicates a battery that is 80% DISCHARGED.

80% discharged!? No, how about 20% discharged?.

Actually, 11.96 is 94.5% of 12.65. This makes the discharge rate to be less
than 6%.
Mike - 01 Apr 2007 14:15 GMT
>>> I read the rest of the replies, mostly argueing about resistence, anyway
>>> Mike I cleaned all connections on bat. solinoid, and alt. only one I
[quoted text clipped - 15 lines]
> Actually, 11.96 is 94.5% of 12.65. This makes the discharge rate to be
> less than 6%.

 Actually about 11.88 is 100% discharged so you need to redo your math.
Like I said before, a voltage reading of 11.96 indicates an 80% discharged
battery.
Jeff Strickland - 01 Apr 2007 16:40 GMT
>>>> I read the rest of the replies, mostly argueing about resistence,
>>>> anyway Mike I cleaned all connections on bat. solinoid, and alt. only
[quoted text clipped - 19 lines]
> Like I said before, a voltage reading of 11.96 indicates an 80% discharged
> battery.

Sorry, I don't follow you. Please 'splain me it.

I'm pretty sure my cars start easily with 11.88 vDC. It's not even close to
being fully discharged.
L.W. (Bill) Hughes III - 01 Apr 2007 21:53 GMT
STATE-OF-CHARGE TEST at about a quarter down the page of:
http://www.repairfaq.org/ELE/F_Car_Battery.html#CARBATTERY_003
       God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0
mailto:LWHughes3rd@aol.com http://www.billhughes.com/

> Sorry, I don't follow you. Please 'splain me it.
>
> I'm pretty sure my cars start easily with 11.88 vDC. It's not even close to
> being fully discharged.

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Greg - 02 Apr 2007 01:01 GMT
After reading Bills page, me thinks I need a new battery.

> STATE-OF-CHARGE TEST at about a quarter down the page of:
> http://www.repairfaq.org/ELE/F_Car_Battery.html#CARBATTERY_003
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
> to
>> being fully discharged.
L.W. (Bill) Hughes III - 02 Apr 2007 01:36 GMT
Bill's Google link, not worth bookmarking.
       God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0
mailto:LWHughes3rd@aol.com http://www.billhughes.com/

>   After reading Bills page, me thinks I need a new battery.

Signature

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Ivan Jager - 01 Apr 2007 22:08 GMT
[...]
>>>>  First start with a known good battery. A fully charged battery should
>>>> read around 12.65 volts. The voltage reading you got when ckecking your
[quoted text clipped - 10 lines]
>
> Sorry, I don't follow you. Please 'splain me it.

A battery is not like a capacitor. While the voltage and charge still are
related, it is not a linear relation. First hit on google actually seems
to agree with Mike.  http://www.wind-sun.com/PDF_Files/battvoltandsoc.pdf

> I'm pretty sure my cars start easily with 11.88 vDC. It's not even close to
> being fully discharged.

If your battery is putting out 11.88 V while you are cranking, sure. If
that's your battery's voltage at rest and it still has that much charge, I
imagine you must have a very large battery.

Ivan
Lon - 02 Apr 2007 02:36 GMT
Jeff Strickland proclaimed:

>>>>> I read the rest of the replies, mostly argueing about resistence,
>>>>> anyway Mike I cleaned all connections on bat. solinoid, and alt.
[quoted text clipped - 25 lines]
> I'm pretty sure my cars start easily with 11.88 vDC. It's not even close
> to being fully discharged.

Open circuit as opposed to starting load voltage.  9 volts is enough to
start as long as it is available at loads of 150 amp or so.
Jeff Strickland - 02 Apr 2007 15:57 GMT
> Jeff Strickland proclaimed:
>
[quoted text clipped - 29 lines]
> Open circuit as opposed to starting load voltage.  9 volts is enough to
> start as long as it is available at loads of 150 amp or so.

I know that. I don't know why anybody would state that 11.88 volts is a
fully discharged battery. My logic says that such a charge would be almost
full as opposed to almost empty.
Mike Romain - 02 Apr 2007 16:56 GMT
>>>>>>  First start with a known good battery. A fully charged battery
>>>>>> should read around 12.65 volts. The voltage reading you got when
[quoted text clipped - 21 lines]
> fully discharged battery. My logic says that such a charge would be
> almost full as opposed to almost empty.

Jeff, when a battery is reading 12.0 volts at rest it is 'very' iffy if
you will get a start out of it.  Your connections better be really clean,,,

When a battery reads 11.88 volts 'at rest', it has no more power or amps
left in it.  The two are not linear.  Volts is just how fast power can
come at you, you need something to push the volts.  (more or less)

There is only about a 1 volt difference between a battery with all it's
cranking amps available and one with none left.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos:  Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Greg - 03 Apr 2007 02:54 GMT
I don't know how the percentage of discharge thing works either, but when
I put the battery on my charger it said it was 40% charged, took 3 hours to
charge at the fastest setting, so a 12 volt battery is 60% gone when at
11.88 volts.

>> Jeff Strickland proclaimed:
>>
[quoted text clipped - 34 lines]
> fully discharged battery. My logic says that such a charge would be almost
> full as opposed to almost empty.
Lon - 02 Apr 2007 02:35 GMT
Mike proclaimed:

>>>>I read the rest of the replies, mostly argueing about resistence, anyway
>>>>Mike I cleaned all connections on bat. solinoid, and alt. only one I
[quoted text clipped - 19 lines]
> Like I said before, a voltage reading of 11.96 indicates an 80% discharged
> battery.

Open circuit voltage of 11.7 is 0%
With a load and/or at lower temperature, the voltage is much less.
12.0 open circuit is a 25% charge but under load expect something more
like 8-9 volts at zero degrees F, with the complication that a battery
with less than 9-10 volts open circuit will tend to charge very slowly
at first.
Mike Romain - 31 Mar 2007 18:15 GMT
If the connection down at the starter is bad enough to cause that, then
the cable should get hot.  I would try it a few times to see.

Other than that, the low battery might be the only issue.  When the
starter draws on the low battery arcs can seem to happen for whatever
reason.....
;-)

Mike

>  I read the rest of the replies, mostly argueing about resistence, anyway
> Mike I cleaned all connections on bat. solinoid, and alt. only one I didn't
[quoted text clipped - 24 lines]
>> the jeep to where I wanted it, start it 2 times fine, so what the hell was
>> that???????
Jeff Strickland - 31 Mar 2007 22:43 GMT
My starter had a bad winding, or whatever, and did the same thing as the
OP's.

Usually it would start after trying a few times, and this simulated a
battery problem for a while. I eventually had enough of a problem that I was
able to isolate the battery as a good component, which left the starter
itself as the failure point.

> If the connection down at the starter is bad enough to cause that, then
> the cable should get hot.  I would try it a few times to see.
[quoted text clipped - 35 lines]
>>> move the jeep to where I wanted it, start it 2 times fine, so what the
>>> hell was that???????
Jeff Strickland - 31 Mar 2007 17:10 GMT
You need to pull the starter.

You might be able to fix the trouble and put the starter back in, or you
might need to buy a new one. In any case, my money is on a starter problem.

>  Here's the story, jeep hasn't ran for couple months, went to start it the
> other day to move it out of garage, it was dead, jumped it, moved it out
[quoted text clipped - 14 lines]
> the jeep to where I wanted it, start it 2 times fine, so what the hell was
> that???????
 
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